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It's just getting worse...

Struma

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is it a v6 or v8???
Is the clunking in the front noticable mainly when parking or turning at low speeds full lock?? or is it when you go over bumps?

It's a V6 exec...makes the noise (clunking/creaking) all the time now, slow, fast, parking, pushing the front of the car down when stationary...I sort of think it might be the radius rod bushes, but they looked o.k from my restricted viewpoint last time I tried to squeeze under the front (it has been lowered onto Kings Lows and I'm not as slim as I used to be...)

Here is a link to my last write up about this problem; it pretty much says it all:

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...7/81970-vs-calais-front-suspension-noise.html

Thanks Hako, I'll give those hoses a look next time I stagger down under the house.

Cheers.
 

Pub247

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yeah radius ord bushes or sway bar link pins another thing is the strut insert retainer nut has come loose or the insert itself is flogged out. rough idle can be plenty of things not sure how you can stuff up a harmonic balancer but could be engine mounts, dfi module, leads, plugs, iac valve, bad earths on ignition system related the list goes on and on
 

friedchicken

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Perhaps the mechanic bent one of the teeth on for the crank angle sensor while replacing the balancer. Is it possible to fit a buick balancer on an ecotec?
 

Struma

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Thanks Pub24/7...we'll try and work through that list...about the only thing I am sure it isn't (the noise) is the sway bar link pins.

Hako, just checked the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and it seemed o.k. but it is a bit hard getting right in back there when trying to balance on one leg...it's not just the balancing bit, but trying to find somewhere to put the leg that's in the cast!

Engine/car vibrates in Park with the aircon on or off - no difference to the vibration...vibration is not perceivable when the car is in gear and stationary.
But that does remind me of another issue (possibly related); when stopped at an intersection the revs will sometimes suddenly drop as if the fan has just kicked in or the air con been turned on, even though neither has happened...but no accompanying vibration that is comparable to the issue being discussed.

Thanks for the ongoing help.

Cheers.
 

hako

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Could be a sticky IAC due to buildup....although not sure why it would cause a vibration unless it sticks at a point which causes a below normal engine speed at idle.....but the change in revs for no particular reason points that way.
 

Struma

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O.k. thanks for that, sounds doable - will give the TB a clean and give the IAC a going over while I am at it.

Could something like this be responsible for a 15% decrease in economy?
Given that it mainly drives in Brisbane traffic it does spend a fair amount of time idling, but this is still a pretty large consumption change.

I will see how it turns out - cheers.
 

kopper69

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Check the fuses below the steering wheel panel. There are 3 clips, turn the 90 degrees and pull on the dash to put pressure on them and they pop out. There are about 15 fuses behind there. On the back of the panel is a fuse layout diagram which identifies each fuse, so you should work it out fairly quickly. Fuse number 4, interior illumination I would be checking first.

Check all the spark plug leads are on tight too, if one wasnt put on tight enough it may not be firing as strong. It might be worth taking the spark plugs out and checking them as there may have simply been a bit of dirt fall onto the plug causing it not to fire intermittently.
 

Struma

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Thanks kopper69,

We have checked all of the internal fuses - cigarette lighter circuit was gone...but all of the others looked o.k....replaced the cabin bulb although the old one was still o.k., and it now works, go figure.

Went under the bonnet again and pulled and checked all of the engine bay fuses, pulled out and reseated all of the relays while we were at it but didn't do any resistance checks yet.

Have jiggled and pushed all leads at coils and plugs...I can't physically get in there to remove and replace all of the plugs (see above mentioned plastered leg) but as soon as I am back on two feet I plan to change all the leads and plugs - hopefully that will make the difference we are looking for, cos it is still shaking around and using more juice than it should.

Cheers for the advice.
 

kopper69

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If the car is noticeably rough all the time just sitting there you can determine the exact cylinder causing the problem fairly easily.

You simply disconnect each connector off the injector, one at a time while the car is running. They simply clip off, very easy. As you disconnect the injector, fuel will no longer be supplied to that cylinder. Without the cylinder firing the car will run rough each time you disconnect the injector except on the faulty cylinder. Because the faulty cylinder is already playing up there wont be much difference when you disconnect the injector. It will be noticable compared to the others.
 
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