Looking for advice from anyone who has swapped a transmission

[malmensa]

I am about to swap out the 4L60e on my 2003 Ecotec VY1 wagon. Taking a look, it seems that the exhaust is going to be a PITA, particularly when I need to get the new box into place. I don't have a hoist, so I will just be lifting the vehicle up on jack stands, and lifting it into position with a trolly jack. It looks doable, however I would need to angle it with the extension housing upwards, lift it over the bar welded between the two exhaust pipes, then lift the front, which looks bloody awkward. The exhaust has never been worked on, so after 420K and 20 years I would expect a fight getting bolts undone.

Has anyone actually replaced a trans on a VY1? Is it better to unbolt the exhaust, or just leave it in place?

Note that this is a VY1, the VY2 has a different exhaust, so might not be the same story.

Of course, I welcome any other tips!

 

[lout]

i just did vxii 4L60E
drop the exhaust

 

[Lex]

I am about to swap out the 4L60e on my 2003 Ecotec VY1 wagon. Taking a look, it seems that the exhaust is going to be a PITA, particularly when I need to get the new box into place. I don't have a hoist, so I will just be lifting the vehicle up on jack stands, and lifting it into position with a trolly jack. It looks doable, however I would need to angle it with the extension housing upwards, lift it over the bar welded between the two exhaust pipes, then lift the front, which looks bloody awkward. The exhaust has never been worked on, so after 420K and 20 years I would expect a fight getting bolts undone.

Has anyone actually replaced a trans on a VY1? Is it better to unbolt the exhaust, or just leave it in place?

Note that this is a VY1, the VY2 has a different exhaust, so might not be the same story.

Of course, I welcome any other tips!

Very easy to drop the exhaust.

 

[lout]

if you have trouble unplugging the selector switch harness, dont fight it, some are glued on and will break the selector switch
dont ask me how i found that out
unbolt the selector switch from the trans and slide it off

 

[crew chief]

Remove the exhaust, this is a no brainer. Have done a few and this is pretty much step 1.

 

[malmensa]

I am about to swap out the 4L60e on my 2003 Ecotec VY1 wagon. Taking a look, it seems that the exhaust is going to be a PITA, particularly when I need to get the new box into place. I don't have a hoist, so I will just be lifting the vehicle up on jack stands, and lifting it into position with a trolly jack. It looks doable, however I would need to angle it with the extension housing upwards, lift it over the bar welded between the two exhaust pipes, then lift the front, which looks bloody awkward. The exhaust has never been worked on, so after 420K and 20 years I would expect a fight getting bolts undone.

Has anyone actually replaced a trans on a VY1? Is it better to unbolt the exhaust, or just leave it in place?

Note that this is a VY1, the VY2 has a different exhaust, so might not be the same story.

Of course, I welcome any other tips!

Just an update, looks like removing the exhaust was indeed a simple task, my visions of trying to drill out snapped studs in the exhaust manifold were unfounded. Got the old 'box out reasonably easily. I noticed that the tail shaft center bearing rubber has completely flogged out and is not connected to the frame around it at all. Once I get a new one, I will get get the 'box in.

 

[malmensa]

Talking to a few other and based on my own experience, I would suggest that anyone replacing a transmission check the center bearing rubber first; there is a good change it will be stuffed. Organize a replacement in advance.

 

[malmensa]

A few more hints now gleaned from experience, for anyone else following. All concerning reattaching the transmission cooling pipes:
1. The pipes are held in place with a small wire clip. This sits in a groove around the nut, and holds the metal line in. There are 3 slots around the nut, the center and two end indents each need to go into a slot. Thus, the clip needs to be pushed in with the center immediately over a slot. Otherwise one end indent will go in first, and you will not be able to push the clip in properly.
2. The clips go on directly above the dipstick tube hole, at this point the tube will be missing. Stuff a bit of rag into the hole, or a dropped clip will probably fall in there.
3. If you are purchasing a 2nd hand box, try to get the clips with it. They are really easy to lose.
4. Don't be an idiot like me and trap the gearbox wiring under the cooling pipes.

 

[malmensa]

For anyone interested, I finally got the 'box in and took it for a test drive. Runs just fine! The tail shaft was an unexpected problem, since I could not separate it at the spline, I ended up have to get a recon one. The most difficult parts for me was jacking the new box into position on the floor of my car port, getting the retaining clips back in for the oil cooling lines and plugging the driver's side O2 sensor back in.