Losh's VR Ute build thread

[losh1971]

Although I am no expert from research I have done it would seem any reasonable amount of head work will only really be of benefit with a large cam or boost. Also from the research I have done the stock heads can handle boost without much work. I could go all out and spend $1000 on each head. If we are talking 5-7rwkw for an extra $1000, it just ain't worth it. My budget is $1000 for both and I want to keep it inside that if possible.
My current heads need some work as they are old. Getting them back to factory spec and some will be as much as I need. I am not expecting huge gains with what I have planned but I'm thinking I might pic up 12-14rwkw. However the main advantage will be a fresh top end. It currently makes some strange noises at WOT for anymore than 20-30 seconds. I have been told it could be springs but I am also replacing lifters so I can rule out both.

 

[shane_3800]

Although I am no expert from research I have done it would seem any reasonable amount of head work will only really be of benefit with a large cam or boost. Also from the research I have done the stock heads can handle boost without much work. I could go all out and spend $1000 on each head. If we are talking 5-7rwkw for an extra $1000, it just ain't worth it. My budget is $1000 for both and I want to keep it inside that if possible.
My current heads need some work as they are old. Getting them back to factory spec and some will be as much as I need. I am not expecting huge gains with what I have planned but I'm thinking I might pic up 12-14rwkw. However the main advantage will be a fresh top end. It currently makes some strange noises at WOT for anymore than 20-30 seconds. I have been told it could be springs but I am also replacing lifters so I can rule out both.

You will gain a lot with a bowl job you will likely gain nothing by just doing a reco.

The valve is the pinch point of the whole engine so blending the valve bowl gives you the most gains unless your port is a restriction which it's not on a standard cam.

Every decent engine builder will at very minimum do a bowl job if you're chasing power then a 3 angle valve grind and chamber opening is next.
When you unshroud and smooth the chamber you take comperssion out so 10 thou should be good then. The intake is easy to machine down too.

With your budget I don't see much power gain at all but if you spoke to someone like Tony Knight a year ago you could've saved and made more KW per dollar with him.

 

[Immortality]

Realistically the only way to make big power (without spending a fortune) on a 3800 V6 is boost.

 

[losh1971]

With your budget I don't see much power gain at all but if you spoke to someone like Tony Knight a year ago you could've saved and made more KW per dollar with him.

Ummm I'm in Tas I'm not about to ship heavy parts like engines and heads across to Adelaide. In case you are not aware we have the most expensive 300km stretch of highway in the country...... My converter alone cost me nearly 50 bucks shipping and that was Melbourne. I priced up getting my bike one way from Adelaide and it was over $1500 with me getting it to the depot, inside a crate. A 6 x 4 trailer is $350
one way on the boat, get the picture?.
The head work is not just about gains, it's also about replacing tired parts, which I could be wrong but I think the springs and lifters are in need of replacement.

I will take your advice on the bowl work and see what the engineer says. He builds race engines so should have some idea.

 

[losh1971]

Realistically the only way to make big power (without spending a fortune) on a 3800 V6 is boost.

Boost is not out of the question, down the track. I'd probably need to find a SH SC or TC kit at a decent price. But I'd still be reluctant to start adding boost to my engine in its current unknown condition.

 

[UTE042_NZ]

The above has me wondering if 10 thou might be too much and cause some issues with oil burning due to raising comps on an engine of unknown mileage? I did ask if shaving 10 thou would make fitting a SC down the track a problem? He said if I run 98 I should be ok. He said E85 and I'd have no issues. Well only one, I'd have to buy it by the drum, if I could even source it, servos don't have it. Half or more don't even stock 98. So it would be proper Caltex or BP as my only options.

Reminds me of when, way back in the prehistoric '70s, a mate (who worked at an engine rebuilders workshop) had an Anglia estate with a 1600cc Cortina engine that he plonked the head from a 1200cc on. Unfortunately he shaved too much off the head and the 220+ lb/sq/in kept blowing rings. Solved it by making a thin aluminium spacer to install between 2 head gaskets which dropped the compression back down to a manageable level.

 

[losh1971]

Just heard back from My Car, they have rotated the tyres, hopefully he stripped and swapped them right to left as requested. I found out the castor and camber was way out?? Bizarre, because that wasn't picked up last alignment, when the new coils and strut top bushes and bearings went in. Anyway I am happy with the result and price come to $69 which was around $40 under what I hoped it was going to be max.

 

[UTE042_NZ]

I found out the castor and camber was way out?? Bizarre, because that wasn't picked up last alignment, when the new coils and strut top bushes and bearings went in.

Took a bit of time, a few kilometres and several pot-holes to get the new components to settle in?

 

[losh1971]

Took a bit of time, a few kilometres and several pot-holes to get the new components to settle in?

So I'm lead to believe...... lol

 

[Immortality]

When I did all the bushes in the front of the Calais it went from been toe in to about 6mm toe out. We adjusted it at home so it was back to 1-2mm toe in. It was still on old tyres so wasn't concerned. Just put on new tyres so as soon as the restrictions lift I'll take it for a proper alignment. One day though I might get some gear so I can do it properly at home.