Oil additives in Ls1?

[XUV]

Hi guys I have a vx ls1 with 138k on the clock, usually when I change the oil I put in moreys heavy duty oil stabiliser as well (1L) my car is due for an oil change again and I'm wandering should I add the oil stabiliser again or give it a miss? Oil is Penrite hpr 10

Why would you do that to such a good oil?

 

[vr304]

Why would you do that to such a good oil?

Thought it was beneficial but I'm starting to see that may not be the case after all

 

[ls1nut]

i use penrite full syth 10w-40 everyday 6l from sca

Does the job and puts up with some abuse (limit bashing for 2-3thosand k at least)

 

[WHCapriceHBD]

I've used the Liqui Moly MOS2 additive in everything from my drag car to my current LS Caprice. I know a lot of people don't like additives, but I have a reason for using it specifically.

Molybdenum Disulfide is what we used to use to coat new cams as we built new engines, as a break in lube between the lobes and lifters, back when I was an automotive machinist. We would buy it in an aerosol form and spray coat a new cam and never had a cam or lifter issue from that point onwards.

Back about 6 years ago I had a 2001 BMW M5. It had the quad cam S62 V8 engine and it was a decent car. I was about 20 minutes away from the nearest town one evening and tore a hole in the sump from a boulder I didn't see on the road as it was dusk. I lost all the engine oil and the oil warning light came on and there was nothing on the dipstick and I was freaking out hard.

I drove that car for about 15 minutes til I could get mobile reception and then arranged a tow. Once the sump was fixed it ran for a long long time with no issues or oil pressure problems until it was sold.
I still think the MOS2 was a lifesaver in that situation as US light aircraft (Cessna sized aircraft) are mandated 'MUST use MOS2' in the engine oil under federal aviation law- if there is oil loss, the MOS2 is supposed to have a high film strength on the bearings to allow the aircraft enough time to make an emergency landing without seizing the engine.
Liqui Moly uses the same type of colloidal suspension molybdenum disulfide as mandated in US federal aviation practices and at a platelet size small enough it shouldn't block the oil pump strainer on an LS engine by any possible means. So if its good enough for this reason, its good enough for my drag car, my LS and other things less critical than aircraft engines.
In fact I've had MOS2 in my LS since I bought the car in early 2014 with no issues at all and no oil pressure lights or anything weird.

I'd suggest you have other problems rather than the MOS2, if the oil light or something intermittent happens. May be a gunked engine and the moly has cleaned some sludge or gunk out and that's what would likely block an oil pump strainer, etc.

After I rebuilt the Hemi in my drag car, I noted that even with extreme abuse, the big ends, cam lobes and mains in that engine looked really nice for what it was put through, and I only ever ran Penrite and MOS2 in it. So I'm happy to keep using it. I won't touch any of the other additives though.

 

[uniacidz]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ AS ABOVE, I like using Liqui Moly.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

All oils have additives. Adding more (compatible) additives will boost the API to the next level. EG, SJ to an SL. There are some with "magnetic" properties that claim to be able to draw oil to heat rather than away from it as it usually does. There was a product years ago that was the new ducks nuts called Bi something. I ran it in my XF and when my water pump gave out it got hot to the point it started knocking, then stopped. Changed the pump on the side of the road, then started it up and it ran fine. I like to think that the additive saved my engine. Castrol Magnatec was the first oil to have this property I think. Now most oils have it.

At the end of the day, if you want to run an additive, run one. Just make sure it is compatible with the oil you are using and that the brand of oil you are using doesn't specifically state not to use one.

 

[Blackout]

If the Oil Companies are legit, then a good/great oil should do the job & your not needing to add anymore additives. We are heading more & more into better R&D'd synthetic oils now & these are so much better than when they first came out.
If an additive is working for your engine, then the oil you have selected to use, may not be your right choice or... your engine has an issue that you may not be aware of.

Personally I do not add any additives as I trust the oil that I put into the engine. The only thing that I do is heavy flush the engine at service time for 3 hours. We can debate the change of oil filter at 5,000kms or 10,000kms, but the filter will only filter down so small, the rest of the dirt sits in the engine. So I am hoping the flush gets into everywhere & cleans out everything it can in the time I flush for.

Do your research & good luck

 

[_R_J_K_]

Seems like a good time to bring up the point that not all synthetics are are actually synthetics, it's all in the MSDS sheet -http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/general/231162-more-suitable-oil-penrite-2.html

 

[moneypit]

If the Oil Companies are legit, then a good/great oil should do the job & your not needing to add anymore additives. We are heading more & more into better R&D'd synthetic oils now & these are so much better than when they first came out.
If an additive is working for your engine, then the oil you have selected to use, may not be your right choice or... your engine has an issue that you may not be aware of.

Personally I do not add any additives as I trust the oil that I put into the engine. The only thing that I do is heavy flush the engine at service time for 3 hours. We can debate the change of oil filter at 5,000kms or 10,000kms, but the filter will only filter down so small, the rest of the dirt sits in the engine. So I am hoping the flush gets into everywhere & cleans out everything it can in the time I flush for.

Do your research & good luck

Not trying to have a go or even tell you you're wrong, but what is a "heavy flush" that you do for 3 hours? Arn't you concerned that you would be stripping the good stuff off the bearings as well as cleaning the other stuff?
I just havn't heard of anyone going to that extent with a flush, how often do you change the oil?

I would think a great quality oil changed often would not need any more help. My mates already have a dig that I overdo the changes, I just do my oil and filter at 5k or 3 mths and trust the oil to do it's job of carrying the nasty stuff out when it's drained.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

With the flushing, if you are trusting that the oil is good, it should be doing it's job, which is suspending the crap in it. If it is doing it's job, then this comes out when you change the oil and gets trapped in the filter. Flushing is not necessary every oil change.