OMG - So Annoying Please I Need Your Help Guys - Static Type Noise Aerial/Altenator?

[holdenboy]

I dont think it'll be anything relating to the amp itself. As you say its fine with the car off.

The amps remote should be connected to the remote output of the head-unit, this shouldnt be causing any dramas.

When you re-did the antenna, did you make sure the earth was good, even if you have to temporarily extend that wire and run it to the negative battery terminal for a test.

Its starting to sound like a head-unit fault, something within the tuner section. Sorry to say

 

[jokerflingo]

I dont think it'll be anything relating to the amp itself. As you say its fine with the car off.

The amps remote should be connected to the remote output of the head-unit, this shouldnt be causing any dramas.

When you re-did the antenna, did you make sure the earth was good, even if you have to temporarily extend that wire and run it to the negative battery terminal for a test.

Its starting to sound like a head-unit fault, something within the tuner section. Sorry to say

Thanks for the reply, i know you must be getting sick of me but this problem is driving me insane :bang: I have checked and double checked all the earths including the Antenna/Aerial, Amp and HU. I also have the amp connected as you said using the remote output. So you think it may be the HU even though it works brilliantly when playing the radio or a cd with the car off or when playing a cd with the car running? It is a fairly old HU by the looks of it, but what would i do if i go out and spend $300 on a HU get it home, install it and the problem is still there? I guess it is a process of elimination but so far it hasn't cost me much. I still cant understand it only happening with the radio on and the car running, which happens to be the most popular time i use it.

Like i said i wouldn't mind spending some money on a new HU because the current one i have isn't the best looking but if the problem is still there after i would be distraught. You could well be right though since it would only take a loose connection somewhere in the HU's internals to cause this problem right? And that would make some sense since im not sure if this is the typical Alternator Noise.

Ill have to go searching for a new HU when i get back from NZ in a week or so and i should be able to get one at cost price, so my question is if you cant think of anything else i could try what HU brand and model is the best? It would have to be single din, have a minimum of 2 RCA's(Front Speakers + Sub = Ute) and be around $300 since i may be able to get cost price from a m8 :whistling

Its currently a Sony but i would prefer Pioneer/Alpine or similar.

Thanks again
Matt.

 

[holdenboy]

Dose the noise increase / decrease with the revving of the car? this will determine whether its an alternator induced noise or not.

My guess (and its just that) is the head-unit itself is playing up. It would great if you could "borrow" a head-unit and test it, but if not then maybe purchasing a new one is your only option.

Suggestions for a new head-unit, is there any other preferences like Ipod connectivity? Heres a few:

Alpine Electronics of Australia

Car CD player with direct USB connection - DEH-3100UB :: Pioneer Australia

You should be able to get either of those for around the $300 mark.

The Kenwood KDC-5043U is a nice unit too, just got one of these for a mates car and was impressed with how simple and effective it was, especially for the price.

http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KDC-MP5043U-Car-CD-USB-Tuner-p/kdcmp5043u.htm

 

[jokerflingo]

Dose the noise increase / decrease with the revving of the car? this will determine whether its an alternator induced noise or not.

My guess (and its just that) is the head-unit itself is playing up. It would great if you could "borrow" a head-unit and test it, but if not then maybe purchasing a new one is your only option.

Suggestions for a new head-unit, is there any other preferences like Ipod connectivity? Heres a few:

Alpine Electronics of Australia

Car CD player with direct USB connection - DEH-3100UB :: Pioneer Australia

You should be able to get either of those for around the $300 mark.

The Kenwood KDC-5043U is a nice unit too, just got one of these for a mates car and was impressed with how simple and effective it was, especially for the price.

Ryda Car Audio - Kenwood KDC-MP5043U Car CD & USB Tuner($199.95)

Just curious in a Car Audio system that is properly setup and has no problems is there meant to be any sort of distortion noise? Except possibly on Am? As my dad keeps saying its probably just normal signal distortion noise being amplified by the amp. Please tell me he is wrong? I am still unsure if it is alternator noise because everyone that i talk to says alternator noise changes with the revs and is more of a whining type noise.

This isn't like that more or less like a static type noise like when you cant pick up a decent signal or arnt quite tuned into the right station, more noticeable with deeper bass music and is not like a high pitched whine which everyone keeps saying, unless i have no idea what you guys mean by a whine. If it is alternator type noise what would be my next move? I see that smurf suggested a noise suppressor? This shouldn't be necessary should it if the system is properly setup with good earths etc?

Also i should note that when we installed the speakers which are coxial and have the tweeter built into the speaker we didnt do anything with the factor tweeters which were seperate? Could this cause any noise type problems? And also the ground for the antenna checked out along with the HU which are both the factory locations and currently the amp ground is connected to the passenger side front right seat bolt? Could that maybe be a problem? Even though it is on bare metal on the chassis?

EDIT: Also i have been reading around and have found that if you change the Speaker Amp settings from Hi Pass to Low Pass like the sub then if the noise disappears its alternator noise? Is this correct or if it just bs because i would of thought if i changed the High Pass to Low Pass then i would pretty much get no noise from the speakers? Also last of all whats all this talk about a ground loop as i see that it causes a majority of problems after grounds/earths have been checked?

 

[holdenboy]

Normally you wont get any noise through a system....if its done properly. It sounds like the install itself is fine, it could be many things:

* If its engine interference, maybe the supressor on the back of the alternator (small cylinder shaped metal object, about $5 to replace).

* Stock speaker wiring problem, receiving interference in the stock loom somewhere

* Faulty amplifier, inducing noise when the head-unit receives a weak signal

* Faulty head-unit, inducing noise when receiving a weak signal


One way to test whether its the amplifier at fault is to run speaker cables straight from the head-unit to your speakers or a test speaker. If the noise is still there then we can rule out the amplifier, wiring and installation, and lean more towards the head-unit. If it goes away it could be the suppressor, amplfiier or wiring somewhere.

Turning on the LPF will cut any high frequencies to those speakers, which in turn will cut any "interference" noise induced.

Using ground loop isolators are a band aid solution, and most of time they just reduce the noise, and rarely actually elimante it.

I know youre not keen on replacing the unit and not fixing the noise, so why not just take it into a specialist car audio shop and get them to have a look at it, which will maybe cost $50-$100 and possibly fix the noise.

 

[jokerflingo]

Well just an update i finally go a New Headunit and **** me dead the noise is still their. I am still leaning further towards a bad antenna ground as its not engine noise, but then the weird thing is when im moving i can hear it worse and it depends on different types of music. What sort of audio place should i go to for them to have a look/listen at it?

 

[VZ-Rob]

Well Jokerflingo
You should have done the "Big Three Power Cable Upgrade" when installing your gear
By improving the current capacity of three main power cables:
1) extra 100amp alternator positive to battery positive,
2) another 100amp battery negative to chassis,
(important to seperate location from factory)
3) another 100amp braid from engine ground to chassis.
(important to seperate location from factory)
Add additional cables to the factory wiring to handle the extra loads.

Will fix all your crackling spikes and whines :beer chug:

 

[holdenboy]

Yeah i still think its the ground for the antenna. To rule this out connect a wire to the existing ground wire and run it straight to the negative battery terminal. If the noise is still there then take it to a reputable and / or specialist car audio shop and let them have listen.

 

[Tasmaniak]

have your tried earthing the chassis of your amp to the chassis of your cd player? how is the amplifier mounted?

 

[holdenboy]

Tasmaniak, im sure youve read earlier on but its only happening on AM/FM.......do you think it would be a earthing problem at the amp seeing as its only on radio?