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PaRaDoX's MA71 Manual Turbo Targa Supra

PaRaDoX

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how long till the engines back anyway, you must be hanging to drive it again, also probably a good time atm to really upgrade the security system

they'res no wiring loom in the car and batterys sitting in the boot. i reckon 2 weeks till i get the bottom end back, and maybe another week after that ill get the head back, then i need to order a cometic, just waiting on funds, went for a new better paying job aswell last week, so see how that works out too!
 

PaRaDoX

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ok, dropped my head off to the engine builders and my pistons, rings, bearings flywheel and pressure plate.

they reckon 1-2 weeks till i can pick it up, in the meantime ordering a new cometic mls headgasket and arp studs... then ill pack it all back together, fit the motor and run it in... when run in ill pull the ecu out, fit a haltech and tow to a tuner and get it setup for 15psi

UPDATE: Motors comming along nicely, still havnt picked it up yet however one of the old piston rings was seized in the piston, no wonder it wouldn't seal properly!
 
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Zuicider

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hey paradox doing a head gasket on my mates 7m-gte just wondering where the timing points are suppose to line up
 

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http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=23

EM_023.gif


first set the crank to tdc (0 on the timing marks)

the timing points are supposed to match the grooves in the timing case backing (bolts onto the head directly, they'res 2 grooves you need to loosen the tensioner first, the bastard thing is when the tensioner snaps back into place it can put your timing out good thing its a non interference motor so you wont smash a valve on the piston

are you using a stock headgasket? or metal, did you deck the head? these heads have a tendency to go funny, i hope your ditching the stock headbolts!

ps have fun with the vac lines...
 

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first set the crank to tdc (0 on the timing marks)

the timing points are supposed to match the grooves in the timing case backing (bolts onto the head directly, they'res 2 grooves you need to loosen the tensioner first, the bastard thing is when the tensioner snaps back into place it can put your timing out good thing its a non interference motor so you wont smash a valve on the piston

are you using a stock headgasket? or metal, did you deck the head? these heads have a tendency to go funny, i hope your ditching the stock headbolts!

ps have fun with the vac lines...

haha damn prolly going the metal gasket car has been licenced for the last 3 years it has had the blown head gasket. i read sumthing to stop the common gasket failure was to tighten the head bolts more than standard torque settings. when we took off the coil pack and the leads the bores for the spark plugs were full of water. rats had moved in and their piss has make all the ally inside look like ****. also got to rebuild the turbo . its not a rush job just take our time kinda job. we downloaded the pdf last night for the car but its always better to talk to the champ does has done it before
 

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and yikes looks like the **** munches that last worked on it didnt time it right either. if we put it on top dead center i dought the pulley marking will line up like that
 

PaRaDoX

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hahah bugger, its more difficult to work on than a commodore that's for sure.

yeah factory torque is 50lb/ft, i used 80lb/ft on my new bolts, the only issue with stock bolts is they use a allen key pattern and unless you get the right tools you cant torque them properly.

i wouldn't go metal headgasket unless you intend on resurfacing everything within a RA of 15. including the block which cant be done with the pistons in, metal headgaskets are very difficult to seal. water gets trapped in the intake valley all the time, they're are allen key bolts at the bottom that seal the water jackets, check that they're not leaking. is there water in the oil?
 

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dunno if there is water in the oil but the cooling system was getting pressurized. he hit 270km/hr when it cooked itself . got all the tools, god thing about being a diesel fitter and loving mr snap on
 

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cooling system could be getting pressurized for another reason, remove thermostat first, see if it still overheats, i would say the headgaskets blown but try that first and pull the rocker cover off and have a look for headgasket goo.

better yet, go get your self a hydro carbon test, it costs about $20 and will let you know if combustion gasses are in the coolant. thats what i did to find out something wasnt sealing my motor properly
 
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