... pointless thread, content deleted by OP.

[NFNSUS]

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[ari666]

Ari, how long do you think sikaflex would last?

longer than your car

 

[NFNSUS]

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[NFNSUS]

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[383 hatch]

.8 is too thin IMO. It'll warp like crazy. I use 1mm minimum for pretty much any panel work, especially in an engine bay. In fact i used 1.5mm to smooth the battery tray in my Torana for the simple fact it doesn't warp when welding, which means less work and near no body filler to finish it off. It is harder to bend, but it's manageable unless you are making intricate shapes.

Sure, it's a bit heavier, but who cares when you have a 500hp Chev to push the car along? lol

Said battery tray (i also did the same to the other side recently as i wasn't happy with it)

Welded in

In epoxy primer.

 

[juiceie vh sle]

have a look through my build i smoothed mine without any experiance with sheet metal.

i think i used 1.6 for my under my battery tray and while the new metal didnt warp the orginal thin metal did a bit and its a lot harder and time consuming to straightn once warped. after that i went 1mm its a lot better to work with and bend. also get the piece your about to weld in to fit pefectly in the hole it is filling with no gap. i have had a lot of experiance with heavy industrial welding and not having a gap between pieces was the hardest habbit to break. take your time and dont weld anything untill its perfect it will save a lot of time downt the track with paint preperation

 

[ari666]

yeah that battery tray will need some decent steel, if not for the warp factor, but also cos batterys are fkn heavy and they also tend to leak acid.


buuuut a smooth engine bay requires battery removal IMO, so there is no need for that kinda steel. cut off the old section and replace with 1mm, then have your batt in the boot

 

[juiceie vh sle]

yeah no point smoothing everything and then covering it with a ugly battery

 

[NFNSUS]

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[ari666]

1mm

thats been answered by a few different people now...