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Possible timing chain rattling and clacking loud! Need urgent help

Timing chain noise?


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Commo_Carl

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Finally someone with similar issues!

Can u describe the history of the sounds?

My car still drove the same, maybe a bit sluggish sometimes, but on boost still pulled harrrrd.
Used to only be noisy on idle. Then the other week 10min after boosting up a hill to redline i started hearing a squealing and rattling (just an all round **** sound) when idle AND now when driving. This noise had seemed to replace (or hide) a ticking id had for ages which i could never find...

Then i drove it to work next day and the noise just got worse. More clacking and rattling.
I too thought lifters so pulled old out and put new crow ones in, to my dismay, no change...
I really hope this is the problem as its doing my head in and otherwise my motor is healthy as. I cant honestly see what else it could be.

Do you have a video of ur noise you can send?
 

tavrin

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Yeah, before the problem came about... if I drove past a wall at like 1500rpm it made a light clanking / rattling noise.
The first time I noticed the noise was like ~ 2 weeks ago when I was giving it a bit of a squirt and dropped the throttle. It made a bad whiney noise as I let go of the throttle

Yeah I got a video of it: Sounds good. - YouTube
The noise is even worse now.
 

Commo_Carl

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So if u stab the throttle when idle, does it rattle/clack/grind for a few secs then go away? mine started like that, then it would have a constant really light rattle on idle and then would rattle/grind for few secs when revs got to about 1100-1500. Hard to describe though lol
 

tavrin

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So if u stab the throttle when idle, does it rattle/clack/grind for a few secs then go away? mine started like that, then it would have a constant really light rattle on idle and then would rattle/grind for few secs when revs got to about 1100-1500. Hard to describe though lol

Yeah mine initially started off with a slight rattle / clack / grind for a few sec then vanished. I initially thought it might have been the tail shaft center bearing on its way out. But then when the noise got really bad *in the video*, I realised the noise was from the engine.

I'll get a new video shortly. The noise is even worse now
 

gossie

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Does this all mean some of you guys just keep driving your cars with nasty noises in them? Dare I ask why? Or have you decided to just drive then 'till they drop, then either put a new engine into it or scrap the car. To my way of thinking that's not very good economy...........Unless of course you have plenty of money to waste.
 

tavrin

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Does this all mean some of you guys just keep driving your cars with nasty noises in them? Dare I ask why?
The noise initially wasn't too noticeable so just shrugged it off as something minor. It was like that since the day I got the car (~2 years ago)

Or have you decided to just drive then 'till they drop, then either put a new engine into it or scrap the car.
Once my Ecotec dies im going to be dropping in a fully rebuilt l67 with forgies etc and then turbo'ing it later on once the over-driven & inter-cooled M90 runs out of puff...

To my way of thinking that's not very good economy...........Unless of course you have plenty of money to waste.
Thats a fair point. I figured with the rattling / grinding noise, the oil pickup mesh screen will now be partially blocked with a fair bit of metal anyway (in my case I drained the oil and saw bits of metal at the bottom of the drain pan (looked more like tensioner metal or some bearing metal)). To do the job properly, it would require the sump to be taken off and the pickup screen cleaned... then fix whatever is broken.

Which basically requires the motor to be pulled out. So after ~$50 in coolant, $30 in oil, $ in gaskets, $ in 'band-aid' fixes which may not necessarily fix the problem, and $ in time to take out and drop in the same 'terminally ill' motor; to me it doesn't seem worth fixing.

With Ecotecs being so cheap anyway... for a few hundred bucks you can get a 2nd hand low km engine from the wreckers with 6 months warranty. Put a new rear main and LIM gasket on it and change the oil and im sure it would last much longer than the band-aided engine would. Last I got quoted was $550 for a VT engine with 162,000km, all boltons, wiring loom and ecu... $250 bare. Came with 6 months warranty too.

Just my 2c.
 

Commo_Carl

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I kept driving because it wasnt a dangerous sounding noise, or a concerning noise. No way id ever get rid of my car, and my motor is 45000km old and purrs apart from this noise.

Now ive just been looking at this new rollmaster chain set and theres nothing to drive the oil oump??? wtf. has anyone put one of these on? This is just my luck...
 

James39

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Play it from this page.
 
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