power locks not locking and causing the central locking to lock then instantly unlock

[93v8berlinaHSV]

power locks not locking and causing the central locking to lock then instantly unlock.

Its really weird it first was just the front drivers door I would have to manually lock it before exiting the vehicle and hitting the lock button on the key. Otherwise if I did not it would lock I could here the passenger door trying to lock but failing (very loud clicking) then it would just force the locks back up as it could not lock.
Now the rear drivers door is not locking either.
Is there a common problem and a fix for this?
Cheers

 

[Brett_jjj]

The door lock wiring connectors in the rear doors can come undone by the themselves. Ive seen this heaps with the VR/VS models. You can tape these wiring connectors together with duct tape to stop it from happening again.

 

[08sky_way]

I posted the following HOW TO on 24/5/2011

How to: Replace faulty door actuator with non-genuine (Dynamco) unit
For years I put up with the problem of the doors locking/unlocking when the remote button was pressed but fixed it recently by replacing the driver's door lock actuator. This was a non-genuine unit (a Dynamco) costing about $35. A new genuine unit was priced at about $200. The only issue I had was sorting out the 5 coloured wires and matching them to the wires left on the car when I cut off the socket that plugged into the original (faulty) actuator. If you buy a Dynamco unit the wires are Black - Common, White - Open, Brown - Closed, Green - Power, Blue - Power. The wires on the car are: Black - Common, Red/Brown - Open, Orange/Brown - Closed, Black/Yellow - Power, Black/Red - Power. (Where I state e.g. 'Black/Yellow' this is the one wire with a trace - and I can't remember which is the trace). You simply match the wires from the new actuator to those wires left in the door. The only problems I had was with the power wires which I had the wrong way around on first try and I needed to cut away the lever on the door lock as it was too wide to engage in the hole provide on the new actuator. Grinding it away with a dremel did the trick.

 

[93v8berlinaHSV]

I think Brett is right about the connectors for the backdoor as that one is not moving at all and the doors still lock with it up. Its the front passenger that is the problem. I took off the trim of both front doors (thank god had eclectic windows and no winders). Checked the mechanism now the motor is making the sound and not moving the lock down. It just moves it up and not even that well at that. I do not no the name of the part that forces the lock up and down but it appears that is the problem. On the plus side I put new cadence speakers in the front as it was running stockies. Sounds way better.

 

[doigs8]

I had a similar problem with my VR SS a few years ago. It turned out that the drivers door actuator was buggered, and because it controls all the other doors, weird things were happening. I fitted a new, genuine Holden actuator (I only use genuine Holden on my baby) , and it has been fine ever since.

 

[DJ_Cosmic_Fire]

power locks not locking and causing the central locking to lock then instantly unlock.

Its really weird it first was just the front drivers door I would have to manually lock it before exiting the vehicle and hitting the lock button on the key. Otherwise if I did not it would lock I could here the passenger door trying to lock but failing (very loud clicking) then it would just force the locks back up as it could not lock.
Now the rear drivers door is not locking either.
Is there a common problem and a fix for this?
Cheers

It will most likely be the electric actuators failing (that's the part that forces the lock up and down as you refer), get the actuators from the wreckers (make sure they test them) & replace them whilst the trim is off or the whole lock assembly if need be. I did mine over the last few weeks, can be a pain to diagnose central locking issues but persistence is the key. There are multiple things that can perish such as power wiring from the door into the cabin through the door grommets breaking within the insulation leaving no power (not in your case) or the master micro switch on the driver's lock barrel, bent control rods, actuators out of alignment, or even the BCM in some cases if you have a Calais, Berlina or Stato etc.