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Removal Of Over Spray.

hi_ryder

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is jiff the one with the grit in it? just test it first... i made the mistake of using easy off bam in my door jamb one time not knowing it was a corrosive. make the 1k clear go chalky white.
 

Nut Kracker

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Sorry, it's JIF with one "F".
It has a very, very mild grit, sort of like toothpaste and it's non corrosive. Not like those heavy duty cleaners.
Just wash it down with a wet rag afterwards to remove the residue.
 

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Nut Kracker

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It's a very mild cleaner and it's been around since Noah was in nappies.
I thought about using a mild cutting compound, but I felt it might be too abrasive.
It's been over 24 hours since I did it and there is no adverse effect on the paint. No chalking etc.

Sometimes you just have to experiment and it's usually the least likely things that seem to work.
 

hi_ryder

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ive got some jif somewhere ill give it a go too....

id probably test it on an exterior clear coat first, not because it might burn the clear, but that the abrasive in the cleaner might scratch/marr the clear coat causing you to use a proper cutting compound to get the shine back. in which case you could have used a proper polish to begin with.... im sure it will be fine to use for bits and pieces on your car but its always a good idea to let people know to test it in an area that doesn't show first in case it all goes belly up. not all coatings are created equal...
 

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Yeah, by all means test it first.
Imo, I wouldn't go using it on clear coat without testing it first.
I did test it on the fire wall first and found no adverse effect. But this is probably a different type of paint.
But seeing as it was only on the fire wall, I bit the bullet and gave it a shot. :)
 

fuzzy2308

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Could JIF be used to remove overspray on the non-tinted side of windows or would it put small scratches in?
 

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Could JIF be used to remove overspray on the non-tinted side of windows or would it put small scratches in?

Imo, I wouldn't use it on glass as it may scratch it. It's primarily used for hard surfaces such as marble, tiles, enamel, stainless steel, etc.
I took a chance using it on a painted surface. But what the hell, without experimentation, we wouldn't know half the things we know today.
It doesn't say not to use it on glass. but I wouldn't, just in case
You could test it on a scrap piece if you can.
Maybe just use a little thinners on a soft rag.
And a razor blade.
But be careful not to get it on anything else.
 

hi_ryder

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Imo, I wouldn't use it on glass as it may scratch it. It's primarily used for hard surfaces such as marble, tiles, enamel, stainless steel, etc.
I took a chance using it on a painted surface. But what the hell, without experimentation, we wouldn't know half the things we know today.
It doesn't say not to use it on glass. but I wouldn't, just in case
You could test it on a scrap piece if you can.
Maybe just use a little thinners on a soft rag.
And a razor blade.
But be careful not to get it on anything else.

all the above, and make sure its a new razor blade. i made the mistake of grabbing what i thought was a new blade one time and turned a back window into an abortion. any nicks in the blade will spell scratches for your glass...
 

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Common glass is resistant to a lot of things, like acids, alkalis, heat, cold and to a host of all different kinds of nasties.

But one thing it's not immune to is......SCRATCHES
 

hi_ryder

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also the finest grade steel wool will do the trick too, tripple 0 or 0000. (never use steel wool on mirrors though, will write them off)
 
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