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Scary moment in my Ute.....

AmericanGuyInAUte

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So stopped on a steep hill at a rad light in the rain. Light turns green and I can't go! ZERO traction and giving the gas and the car would jsut turn sideways. Brand new Goodyear Tyres. Some nice kids stopped and gave me a push.


My question... what is the easiest way to put LSD into the rear diff? I saw this online. Will this help me out?

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjm6s_61s2FAxX4XGwGHYMrCj0Q9pwGCA4
 

J_D 2.0

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So stopped on a steep hill at a rad light in the rain. Light turns green and I can't go! ZERO traction and giving the gas and the car would jsut turn sideways. Brand new Goodyear Tyres. Some nice kids stopped and gave me a push.


My question... what is the easiest way to put LSD into the rear diff? I saw this online. Will this help me out?

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjm6s_61s2FAxX4XGwGHYMrCj0Q9pwGCA4

Ive got a cheaper option!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bastion-20kg-general-purpose-cement_p0760330
 

keith reed

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Easiest way would to buy the complete diff. Buy from a wrecker but make sure you get some kind of warranty.
 

figjam

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Don't know if a LSD will cure that problem.
My 5 litre VN Calais (1989) had LSD, and it would just slide sideways in the conditions you experienced. Gently, softly, it was to get going.
The Monaro has the very intrusive traction control that is annoying, but more effective in staying straight.
T/C can be turned off, but the results in the wet can be embarrassment.

Edit ... the VN had good quality Yokohama tyres.
 

Immortality

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That will certainly do the trick.

Whilst the job isn't difficult, unless you have the right parts to adjust the gear backlash it can be difficult to get it right.

But basically, drain the oil (and whilst that drains) pull off the both wheels, brake calipers and rotors, remove the 4 bolts for the axle retainers and pull each axle out about 150mm ( reverse the rotors onto the axles, put a couple wheel nuts on a few turns and use the rotor like a slide hammer. They don't have to come all the way out). Drop the panhard rod and remove the rear diff cover.

Use a dial indicator to measure the current gear backlash. Undo the 4 bolts holding the bearing caps in place. Use a pinch bar behind the centre (against the pinion) to lever the centre out. Make sure you keep the bearing caps and shims together on the correct sides (this is critical).

Swap the old bearings and crown wheel onto the new diff centre or you can use new bearings and then re-assemble the diff centre into the housing (making sure those shims go back in their original positions), button it all up and then measure the backlash. IF it's the same as before then go buy a lotto ticket, re-assemble everything, fill with oil and you are on your way.

If the backlash is different then it needs adjustment, if it's only a touch off it may well be fine or the gears might be a bit noisy when driving. If it's too tight, when things heat up there may end up been no backlash which will cause damage. A little looser not such an issue but again might cause gear noise.

The other option is to take it to a shop to fit, they will try and convince you to replace all the bearings and seals whilst they are there and lighten your wallet a bit more. With the axles, there is always a chance the seals might leak on the end of the axles (but this the fun part of playing with cars).
 
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J_D 2.0

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Will that give him a LSD?

Well it will if LSD stands for less slippery driving! The old live axle Commodores are diabolical in the wet. Having owned two VH wagons and a series one VN way back in the day I’ve had plenty of experience with that!
 

Immortality

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Easiest way would to buy the complete diff. Buy from a wrecker but make sure you get some kind of warranty.

I think you might struggle to find a VS ute diff with LSD that still does LSD things this day in age.
 

keith reed

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I hve just seen 2 for sale on gumtree. Whether they are any good is another matter.
 
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