Spraypainting my VG work ute - the EPIC journey.

[VSSS_5L]

So I was sanding away and I found this....

I think its previous bog work...doesn't seem too serious but i guess i gotta take it back past that now...

Couple of questions...firstly there is pop rivet holes all along my rails with the tonneu hooks on them...trying to work out if i should use this selleys stuff i bought or fibreglass to fill them, obviously on the paint side it will get body filled and prepped but on the backside is where i gotta get the holes all covered.

Also I was wondering... As i make my way through the car sanding stuff and pulling stuff off sanding out chips and getting rid of a bunch of surface rust...im starting to think when i get rid of some rust to bare metal that i should be spraying something over it...or i gotta come back in a few days and sand the surface rust off again...Its mainly in tight little places and for the most part in places that are covered by trims or mouldings or bumpers or whatnot... Im a bit worried about what i should put on there, if anything because i dont want to cause any issues underneath my primer...

So what should i use? Should i just grab some aeresol primer from supercheap and bung that on? Or would some rustkill paint be safe to use? Im planning to load the whole car up with a fair bit of high fill primer when i get to that stage....at the moment i feel like im double handling...coz i will sand or wire brush off a bit of surface rust, knowing full well that im gonna have to do it again right before i primer...

 

[VSSS_5L]

Should i use one of these for my rust removal?

Septone Super Etch Primer - 400g - Supercheap Auto Australia

Septone Primer Surfacer - Grey Acrylic, 400g - Supercheap Auto Australia

Septone Primer Filler - Beige, 400g - Supercheap Auto Australia

Septone Enamel Grey Primer - 400g - Supercheap Auto Australia

Killrust Paint - Supercheap Auto Australia

 

[DAKSTER]

If you have a mate who can weld well, that's easily the best answer for the rivet holes. Otherwise fibreglass on the back and bog on the front if you have to.

Bare metal can be wiped over immediately with Rust Converter. This converts the surface to an inert metal which wont rust, and can just be prepsolled and primed directly over whenever you are ready.

SCA Septone Rust Converter

 

[VSSS_5L]

If you have a mate who can weld well, that's easily the best answer for the rivet holes. Otherwise fibreglass on the back and bog on the front if you have to.

Bare metal can be wiped over immediately with Rust Converter. This converts the surface to an inert metal which wont rust, and can just be prepsolled and primed directly over whenever you are ready.

SCA Septone Rust Converter

I actually bought a bottle of rust convertor today too, but when i was reading it the label kind of said that it would convert rust now but wouldn't prevent future rust. I might give that stuff a go anyway as i already have it....Maybe if you dont wipe it off it will sort of leave a bit of protection there too.

Sometimes i think i keep making the task at hand harder than it needs to be...by being too fussy about everything. Probably could roll my dog in glue, then sand and throw it at the car then stab some holes in the top of a house paint can close my eyes and spin around in circles and it would get the job done... Well...not exactly... But I think im overcomplicating things.

Cheers for the advice anyways =))

 

[Danielzke]

Seems like hard work but it'll be worth it. Can't wait to see the final result mate.

 

[DAKSTER]

I actually bought a bottle of rust convertor today too, but when i was reading it the label kind of said that it would convert rust now but wouldn't prevent future rust. I might give that stuff a go anyway as i already have it....Maybe if you dont wipe it off it will sort of leave a bit of protection there too.

Sometimes i think i keep making the task at hand harder than it needs to be...by being too fussy about everything. Probably could roll my dog in glue, then sand and throw it at the car then stab some holes in the top of a house paint can close my eyes and spin around in circles and it would get the job done... Well...not exactly... But I think im overcomplicating things.

Cheers for the advice anyways =))

No such thing as overdoing the prep. When it comes to quality paint, preparation is everything.

When they say on the bottle that it wont prevent future rust, they are saying its not a rustproofing paint. If it isn't getting rained on every day, it should prevent surface rust from forming for weeks if not months though. You don't wipe it off, just wipe it over. A couple weeks later, come back, wipe it with prepsol, and prime.

 

[hi_ryder]

if youve got bare metal patches that are going to sit and get rusty, just use any of those supercheap pressure pack primer cans. just make sure it rated for bare metal. also if the car has old bog, if its not cracked, if theres nothing wrong with it, just leave it. no point in sanding through it then re-bogging if theres no need to. if the bog is split and theres rust in the crack thats different, then youd want to sand it back to the metal (possibly bang the dent out a little better) and rebog...

 

[toey@carfx]

looks like a good project here. have you watched the video's that the guys at custom spray mods have done. lots of good info on them

 

[VSSS_5L]

Yeah...the bog looks good the problem is feathering so i dont have an edge where it starts/ends. Shouldn't be too hard anyways, its really a light skim anyway i've sanded through the edge a bit already.

Yeah i've watched the custom spray mods videos. I've watched a tonne of videos...read a tonne of forums too lol.

 

[Geek2.0]

So with that rust converter stuff, you could wipe that over all the panels just to be safe, and leave it for a few hours or days (undercover) until your ready to prime and paint?