Squeaking brakes

[Pigg]

G’day everyone just after some thoughts
I changed my front brakes last weekend on my series 1 SSV with DBA T2 slotted rotors and HI-Q pads was all good for a couple of days but they started squeaking abit not badly but never had the problem before, anyone running the same rotor and pad set up? Cheers

 

[losh1971]

and HI-Q pads

This ^^^ will be your problem.

 

[keith reed]

I fitted Bendix Ultimate pads to my VH and had the same problem. It only squealed when putting the car back in the garage, it is because of having metal in the pads. The car is up on stands at the moment while I wait for some ceramic pads to arrive.

 

[Pigg]

This ^^^ will be your problem.

I was recommended the Hi Q’s and have used them before without a problem. What pads do you run?

 

[RevNev]

Just standard Bendix pads work the best in a road car and don't squeal. Metallic and higher performance pads only work better with heat and wear the rotors faster. Unless you're continually braking down long hills and carrying high loads etc, performance pads don't reach the temperatures for maximum braking efficiency.

 

[losh1971]

I was recommended the Hi Q’s and have used them before without a problem. What pads do you run?

I run A1RMs. They are a semi race pad but grab well on a cold rotor, best pad I have ever used. You probably won't find any though as QFM closed down.

 

[daves8]

Most high performance pads will squeal or make noise in some form

I have the DBA XP on mine and they can be noisy in the rears

 

[RevNev]

I run A1RMs. They are a semi race pad but grab well on a cold rotor, best pad I have ever used. You probably won't find any though as QFM closed down.

There's a few pads marketed as street/race type pads, but if they have good cold bite, they're way more street than race. Carbon metallic race pads are dreadful cold in a road car and not only noisy, takes some pedal effort to stop the car compared with a standard road car pad. The street/race pads on the track if you're braking where you should be, fade and crumble up. We always use 2 sets with the guys who track their cars, standard road car pads for the street and fit the carbon metallics at the track. Some of the better funded guys use 2 sets of rotors and doesn't take long to change them over.

 

[losh1971]

There's a few pads marketed as street/race type pads, but if they have good cold bite, they're way more street than race. Carbon metallic race pads are dreadful cold in a road car and not only noisy, takes some pedal effort to stop the car compared with a standard road car pad. The street/race pads on the track if you're braking where you should be, fade and crumble up. We always use 2 sets with the guys who track their cars, standard road car pads for the street and fit the carbon metallics at the track. Some of the better funded guys use 2 sets of rotors and doesn't take long to change them over.

I'm only going by what they said on the site when I was looking for a decent pad. It would be interesting to really load them up and see if they work as well as they claim when under hard braking. But initial results are a stack better than the street pads that were on it before. I had to jam them on a few weeks ago and I was like wholl, the old brakes didn't compare.
If I could buy more I would. I have a spare set in the shed and they are a really good pad. On the expensive side compared to Bendix.

 

[losh1971]

QFM DB1464 A1RM REAR BRAKE PADS - CJ RALLIART LANCER | AK Racing

QFM DB1464 A1RM REAR BRAKE PADS - CJ RALLIART LANCER. A1RM is a high performance street pad that is also suitable for light track and rally work. This pad is designed to meet the temperatures generated by heavy and prolonged braking applications. A1RM has very good cold effectiveness and pedal...

www.akracing.com.au

This is what they say about them. IIRC they are a 60 street 40 track pad. So yeah not proper race pads. But a very good street pad with some ability to push them if needed.