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Starting problems VL manual

Holdfast

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>>>>>>>>I'll see what happens one the Holdfast mobil cools down. Here's hoping:)<<<<<<<<<<<<<

That should read: I'll see what happens once the Holdfast mobil cools down.
 

Holdfast

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Yeah, well what ever I did didn't fix it:(

So it's out of my league. :unsure:

Time for an auto electrician, me thinks :(
 

Holdfast

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Hi, vlrad, Bucket, harry3, rattatack1313, and bextor84.
Thanks for your help regarding my VL. She is now fixed. :thumbsup:

My thanks go to all of you but in particular vlrad and Bucket for your detailed assistance. :king:
I thought I’d drop a line to day so that you can see the outcome.

The crux came when the VL was running on about 3 cylinders.

This is what I did to fix her:

Checked the computer ECM

Noticed code 11 had come up (crank angle sensor) which is one of several codes I’ve had over the last 2 weeks.

Erased the memory.

Tried to start the car; it wouldn’t start.

Removed the D cap, checked the cap and rotor, both ok.

Pulled out the distributor, pulled out the Crank angle sensor. Noticed that a washer was wearing the shaft to the distributor above the bearing away.

I removed all of the red / rust looking dust, cleaned the lot out with WD40.
Cleaned the inside and outside of the distributor with degreaser “probably not the best thing to do” but then I saturated it with WD40 (used ¼ of a can) to remove all traces of degreaser.

I checked to see that the bearing was ok, it was but the shaft of the distributor was worn. :(

Next I degreased the 360-degree thin metal disc and dried it on lint free cloth.

I replaced the Crank angle sensor with a new one.

Then, I reassembled the lot.

And presto she works.

Fires up really nice and now I don’t have to jump-start.

Took her for a test run and she is running beautifully.

So, after having incorrect codes from the ECM and wasting money on a starter motor, fuel filter and air filter what should I have done?

In hindsight it’s always good to say, I should have done :bop: this or done that but …… since I replaced the Crank Angle Sensor back on 21 Jan 2005, I thought it could not possibly be the CAS. :confused:

So it pays to check. :w00t:

The extremely fine dust caused by a washer above the bearing in the distributor was creating a red dust that covered the crank angle sensor. It would appear that the sensor gave false readings to the ECM because sometimes it was covered with dust and sometimes not.

So to remedy the situation all I had to do was think why did I have different readings (codes) from the ECM? I know the answer now, dust.

So, if you are having problems as I did, and your ECM is sending different signals or ones you can’t understand don’t think the ECM is to blame. Check for water dust or anything that could cause a break in sending info to the ECM.

In this case the only problem was the diode in the CAS was covered with red dust and couldn’t signal the ECM properly.

I hope you can gain a bit of useful information from my stuff ups.

I had fun learning more about my car and I’m glad that I fixed it with your help.

Soon, I’ll have to replace the distributor shaft and would welcome any comments. :D

Thanks Fellas for hanging in there with me and providing the hints, which led me to fixing my Holdfast. :thumbsup:
 

Bucket

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well done m8, good work persisting with it. By the way i've heard that the bearing should always get replaced with the CAS otherwise you get the problem you are having. Also cheap CAS will fail in short amounts of time.
 

Holdfast

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Replacing the distributor bearing.

Hey Bucket? :thumbsup:

Thanks for the tip. :D
 

Holdfast

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Fixed

All of my problems could be traced back to a damaged bearing in the distributor which cost me $6 to replace. and a gaskey around the distributor cap.

I'd washed the engine down along time ago and after a while had some problems with performance and the car finally broke down.

After replacing many parts including the CAS, distributor cap, Power Transistor, coil, plugs, etc. and having moths of problems this is how it was fixed.

The bearing in the distributor underneath the Crank Angle Sensor had become corroded because high pressure water had got in through a damaged distributor cap seal and found its way into the bearing.

The bearing corroded and caused dust (rusty dust ) which coated the inside of the distributor and covering the 360 degree stainless steel slotted thin disk and the CAS itself.

This caused the CAS to send a multitude of different readings to the ECM and in addition the distributor shaft moved off centre to some degree because the bearing was damaged.

I stripped down the distributor fully and removed all dirt, rust etc.

Then I replaced the bearing and ensured it rotated smoothly.
I purchased a new Nissan large O ring / seal for where the distributor cap sits on the Distributor aluminium housing.

After reassembling the unit the car now goes well.

Months ago I didn't know I should have replaced the bearing when I replaced the CAS. Now I do.

I hope someone can learn from my mistakes and I sincerely thank all of you who helped me through this very stressful period.
 
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