Steering rack problem

[shane_3800]

If you grease the tap the swarf will stay on the tap. The pipe just links the boots from side to side.

 

[vc commodore]

If you grease the tap the swarf will stay on the tap. The pipe just links the boots from side to side.

No matter how much grease you use, swarf will still get inside the rack, which means disassembling the rack to make sure the whole lot is removed....Having swarf inside the rack, can cause premature failure of seals, and possible wearing of the metal rack internals....

 

[shane_3800]

No matter how much grease you use, swarf will still get inside the rack, which means disassembling the rack to make sure the whole lot is removed....Having swarf inside the rack, can cause premature failure of seals, and possible wearing of the metal rack internals....

Seeing as the pipe is only in the boot section then all you need to do take the boots off at the rack and slide them back a little. If you don't know how to trap swarf on a tap you don't really know what you're talking about and I wouldn't trust you with a tonka truck.

 

[wayne0]

bought a 2nd hand rack from a VS and its the same, I did manage to pull out the broken end of pipe by threading a screw into it and using a slide hammer, it is just a press fit pipe so I will still look into whether i can get a new pipe made up to fit.
Its something to remember to watch for whenever removing the engine.
thanks

 

[VPRob]

As I said, I didn't want to start a bunfight on this....... Let's keep it civil please.

 

[vc commodore]

Seeing as the pipe is only in the boot section then all you need to do take the boots off at the rack and slide them back a little. If you don't know how to trap swarf on a tap you don't really know what you're talking about and I wouldn't trust you with a tonka truck.

You can't see too well....Have a look at the picture and still tell everyone it is covered by the rack boot. Little hint....There is a slightly raised section just inbetween the opening of the rack and the end of this pipe....I wonder why this is there? Besides what the heck has the rack boot got to do with the pipe repair?

As for trapping swarf....I wouldn't drill and tap this pipe, so no chance of me getting it in there to begin with....Might be best you try and find out where I said I would drill and/or tap it to start with, for you to make comments like this

As I said, no matter how much grease you use (your words on the substance to use), swarf will still get inside the rack, possibly causing premature seal failure and possible wear of internal metal parts...The only thing I forgot to write is, the possibility of the swarf getting trapped in the gear of the rack, causing it to jam up....

You seem to dig yourself into holes quite frequently, with your questionable ways to repair things and then proceed to shift the blame onto others....Facts are, with this issue, I wouldn't drill and tap it to begin with...I would either send it out to a place for the rack to be stripped down and repaired that way, or suggest getting a second hand rack....Not proceed with some dodgy repair like you have suggested

 

[shane_3800]

You can't see too well....Have a look at the picture and still tell everyone it is covered by the rack boot. Little hint....There is a slightly raised section just inbetween the opening of the rack and the end of this pipe....I wonder why this is there? Besides what the heck has the rack boot got to do with the pipe repair?

As for trapping swarf....I wouldn't drill and tap this pipe, so no chance of me getting it in there to begin with....Might be best you try and find out where I said I would drill and/or tap it to start with, for you to make comments like this

As I said, no matter how much grease you use (your words on the substance to use), swarf will still get inside the rack, possibly causing premature seal failure and possible wear of internal metal parts...The only thing I forgot to write is, the possibility of the swarf getting trapped in the gear of the rack, causing it to jam up....

You seem to dig yourself into holes quite frequently, with your questionable ways to repair things and then proceed to shift the blame onto others....Facts are, with this issue, I wouldn't drill and tap it to begin with...I would either send it out to a place for the rack to be stripped down and repaired that way, or suggest getting a second hand rack....Not proceed with some dodgy repair like you have suggested

The pipe is there to equalise pressure between the rack boots on hard lock. I said this before in this thread.

You don't need to drill it you said that. again if you can't catch the swarf on a tap with grease I wouldn't let you near a tonka truck.

 

[vc commodore]

The pipe is there to equalise pressure between the rack boots on hard lock. I said this before in this thread.

You don't need to drill it you said that. again if you can't catch the swarf on a tap with grease I wouldn't let you near a tonka truck.

Ah ha, so you're going to attempt to tap into a broken piece of pipe.... That'll work...

You got it right...I wouldn't know how to catch the swarf in grease, because I wouldn't attempt to bodge things up that way...I would do it properly, by disassembling the internals of the rack prior to attempting to drill out the old broken pipe and tapping a thread to enable a fitting to be used.

I would then clean out the internal tubing of the rack, ensuring there is no foreign metal lurking within the tubing, before re-assembling the rack....That way, I can be 100% sure, no foreign metal is inside the rack to wreck the seals, nor potentially jam up the gears for the rack, preventing the car from being steered....

I guess I know why you wouldn't let me near your tonka truck...I'd fix it properly...You'd bodge it so it stuffs up constantly, so you have to constantly have to attempt to fix it, or have the potential for someone to be seriously injured or killed

 

[shane_3800]

Ah ha, so you're going to attempt to tap into a broken piece of pipe.... That'll work...

You got it right...I wouldn't know how to catch the swarf in grease, because I wouldn't attempt to bodge things up that way...I would do it properly, by disassembling the internals of the rack prior to attempting to drill out the old broken pipe and tapping a thread to enable a fitting to be used.

I would then clean out the internal tubing of the rack, ensuring there is no foreign metal lurking within the tubing, before re-assembling the rack....That way, I can be 100% sure, no foreign metal is inside the rack to wreck the seals, nor potentially jam up the gears for the rack, preventing the car from being steered....

I guess I know why you wouldn't let me near your tonka truck...I'd fix it properly...You'd bodge it so it stuffs up constantly, so you have to constantly have to attempt to fix it, or have the potential for someone to be seriously injured or killed

So you would spend 5 hours of labour on a job when a replacement rack is worth two hours labour???? Are you from the specail ed class?

Like I said you show no idea what you are talking about because you seem to think it's a pipe that is part of the critcal workings of a steering rack. You also show no understanding of how to remedy the issue.
You have no idea what you're talking about which is obvious as you're a tyre fitter that learnt a few things off qualified mechanics.

When and if I have a child I'm sure I'll let you replace the tyres on their tonka truck. This is as much as I would safely let you do with your lack of mechanical knowledge.

You realise I've rebuilt steering racks and steering boxes I've also rebuilt power steering pumps. I don't just adjust the nuts on the racl ends I fix them unlike you buddy. So go home and keep your drivel away from me in the future.

 

[vc commodore]

So you would spend 5 hours of labour on a job when a replacement rack is worth two hours labour???? Are you from the specail ed class?

Like I said you show no idea what you are talking about because you seem to think it's a pipe that is part of the critcal workings of a steering rack. You also show no understanding of how to remedy the issue.
You have no idea what you're talking about which is obvious as you're a tyre fitter that learnt a few things off qualified mechanics.

When and if I have a child I'm sure I'll let you replace the tyres on their tonka truck. This is as much as I would safely let you do with your lack of mechanical knowledge.

You realise I've rebuilt steering racks and steering boxes I've also rebuilt power steering pumps. I don't just adjust the nuts on the racl ends I fix them unlike you buddy. So go home and keep your drivel away from me in the future.

Fair call it's not a critical part of the rack, but you have to remove the old piping from the housing before you can successfully place a thread in it.....This required removal via a drill to remove the old piping, which means crap gets into the internals of the rack....It's that crap that can cause a rack to lock up and kill someone.

Even tapping a thread without removing the internals is a receipe for crap to get inside the rack and cause a failure....And it doesn't matter if you put a complete container of grease around the area you are working on....You are messing with a critical suspension component, so complancency has no place...

Yeah learnt from mechanics...I really need to introduce you to those mechanics, so you can learn how to do things properly, not half assed.....However, you will get really offended with how they treat you, because they aren't backwards in coming forwards....

As for what you have done...All I can say is, if what you put on this forum is an indication of your workmanship, thank heck I don't go to your state and I feel sorry for those in your state....You are going to get someone killed one day and I pity the poor family that has to endure that pain.

As for taking so long to strip the rack compared to replacing it....May I remind you, you're the one that has suggested the dodgy fix with the original rack...I have suggested the 2 ways of doing it....Strip the current rack and place a thread in the tubing, therefore ensuring it is free of debris, or replace with another rack

And finally...I fully intend to keep my cars away from you...I don't want to be behind the wheel of a car that has a great potential to kill someone, as a result of your dodgyness, as shown here..