Stiff clutch when going hard

[Smitty]

It’ll be a DMF for sure even my old vx ss had a DMF standard so would find it hard to imagine the ve would run a single mass

first VE SSv was DMF

 

[J_D 2.0]

It’ll be a DMF for sure even my old vx ss had a DMF standard so would find it hard to imagine the ve would run a single mass

Mine is SMF. I had a mechanic change the existing SMF clutch and flywheel setup to the below one.

https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-v8-manual-clutch-pressure-plate-flywheel-vt

And it’s got this gearbox in it. Exactly the same as the old one I took out and still have in my garage.

https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-ve-v8-tr6060-6-speed-manual-gearbox-tremec


This EARLY VE Gearbox will not fit Holden Models after June/2012 fitted with the
Factory Holden Dual Mass Clutch. This is due to the input shaft (spline).

 

[Lorisk1]

Touching base back on this. Haven't had much time to look into it...have flushed with dot4. No real change Will try the dot 5. 500f fluid.

Was told maybe my headers are cooking the fluid 1"7/8 headers?

Or my master cylinder is cooked, but it drives perfect if I don't cane it through the gears

I've noticed after loading up 2 gears taking it to about 5krpm each gear, it gets physically too hard to push..and the pedal releases slowely if I do manage to get it to the floor.

The clutch doesn't slip at all. Bites good.. I can drop it in 2nd and it will peel off the bat. It's just thrashing through the gears it won't after a few gears later.

 

[vr304]

Touching base back on this. Haven't had much time to look into it...have flushed with dot4. No real change Will try the dot 5. 500f fluid.

Was told maybe my headers are cooking the fluid 1"7/8 headers?

Or my master cylinder is cooked, but it drives perfect if I don't cane it through the gears

I've noticed after loading up 2 gears taking it to about 5krpm each gear, it gets physically too hard to push..and the pedal releases slowely if I do manage to get it to the floor.

The clutch doesn't slip at all. Bites good.. I can drop it in 2nd and it will peel off the bat. It's just thrashing through the gears it won't after a few years later.

Might be worth trying some heat sleeve or wrap around your clutch line if you think the headers are heating up the fluid

 

[BlackVXGTS]

What method are you using to flush the fluid?

 

[losh1971]

I thought VE came standard with heat shielding on the line? Mine does. I don't see how it's a boiling issue because of extractor heat, otherwise there would be a lot more threads with the same problem, unless the fluid is cactus. They are a mongrel thing to bleed, which is why it's generally left to a garage, even some of them struggle.

 

[BlackVXGTS]

I posted the instructions below some time ago, when I had my VX GTS, in relation to a similar problem the OP is experiencing. I think it's still relevant for the VE.

Bleeding the T56 Clutch​

I have a Textralia X-grip clutch system installed on my VX GTS 427 with a standard master and slave cylinder, and don't have the problems you are experiencing. Having said that, an HD clutch will always be more temperamental in terms of release and smoothness compared with a standard clutch - however, the standard ones won't cut the mustard !!!

I suspect that your clutch is not being bled properly - it's difficult to do with the clutch slave cylinder being installed inside the bell housing. Firstly, I recommend you purchase and install an extended bleeder from eBay - you may get it cheaper from Bursons and other motor retailers. This allows you to easily attach a hose and container to the bleed nipple:

The next thing is very important. I replace my clutch fluid every six months because it becomes contaminated (and black) and I've tried all different methods to replace the fluid and get a good pedal. You need to forget the guidelines you may have seen in relation to bleeding brake lines.

1. Once you have installed the extended bleeder, remove all the old brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder. I use a turkey baster to syringe all the fluid out and kitchen paper and a toothbrush to get rid of any remaining dirt and fluid.
2. Fill the master cylinder with new fluid - I use racing brake fluid but I'm not sure if that works any better than standard high quality brake fluid.
3. Attach a (clear) plastic tube attached to a container, which is located higher than the slave cylinder.
4. Crack the bleed nipple about 1/2 of a turn.
5. Slowly pump the clutch pedal three times.
6. Refill the master cylinder and repeat step 5 until the fluid in the plastic tube is clear. you need to be careful as the clutch master cylinder is rather small and if you pump the clutch more than three times, or forget to fill the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.
7. Once the fluid in the tube is clear, tighten the bleed screw, top up the master cylinder, and you will have a magnificent clutch pedal that has no sponginess and performs well.
8. Be careful when you remove the plastic tube and reservoir to prevent old clutch fluid contaminating you and the environment !!!

 

[Fu Manchu]

This is the most innuendo laden thread title in a while.

 

[Skylarking]

Will try the dot 5. 500f fluid.

Dot5 is a silicon based fluid and should only ever be used if the system came with dot5 from factory or where every part of the system is either new or has been flushed with specific cleaner and all seals (within bmc & all calipers) changed… Dot5 won’t do well in a system that’s had glycol based fluids within as seals will swell up and problems will ensue.

Below cut from the following listed web page

Brake fluids are categorized into four main classifications by the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT): DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5 and DOT 5.1. Most fluids fall into the DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 classification. These fluids are all hygroscopic, which means they absorb moisture from the air. DOT 5 fluids are not hygroscopic but are often used in vehicles that sit for long periods of time, such as collector cars or military vehicles.​

The chemical composition of the fluids also changes with the different classifications. DOT 3 fluids are glycol ether based.DOT 4 fluids are a mixture of glycol ether with borate ester. DOT 5.1 fluids use borate ester with glycol ether blended in, while DOT 5 fluids are silicone based.​

​

Keep in mind that even though all fluids meeting DOT specifications must be compatible, mixing is not recommended. DOT 5 fluids should never be mixed with other classifications. ​

Brake Fluid - A Practical Guide

While vehicle owners may change their brake pads, rotors or drums based on a mechanic’s recommendation or their car not stopping as soon as it once did, few people replace the brake fluid. I…

www.machinerylubrication.com

 

[BlackVXGTS]

Dot 5.1 brake fluid is not silicon based.