URGENT: Are Holden doing me sideways with a fish fork?

[s_ikari2015]

I changed the disc rotors and pads on the weekend as well as the front wheel hubs on my VT. Now there's a terrible clunking coming from the front left whenever I brake.
I had a look at the brakes but couldn't find anything so I booked it into Holden this morning for them to check it out.

This is what they claim:
The front sway bar bushes and link bushes are cracked and worn out. The lower control arm bushes are also cracked and worn out. They claim the whole suspension is moving forward and back again thus the clunking. They said it will cost over $1,100 to fix. :rip:

I can only assume the new discs and pads have put additional stress on the failing bushes and when I first used the brakes they gave way? This is absolute boulderdash in my mind. I've had the sway bar link bushes changed twice in the last 2 years, and the service technician has said that they don't make Nolathane bushes for the link kit... Are you kidding me? If it's a rubber bush then there will be a Nolathane equivilent.

Also, the handbrake light won't turn off. They claim it's because the brake fluid needs bleeding. They say there's a sensor in the brake line that activates the handbrake light. But the handbrake is a cable operated system... is this further boulderdash?:bang:


I'm going to insist on seeing the old bushes. Something just doesn't feel right about all this.

EDIT: They also say it won't affect the steering at all, is this true?

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

1: Make sure the bolts on calipers are tight. Also the outer pad has two clips on it, if these are incorrectly fitted, the pad will move around in the caliper and cause a clunk.

2: There is a Nolathane bush for the link pins. If the link bushes were buggered, they will make a noise more when turning and going over a bump than just braking.

3: New brakes will not put any additional strain on any suspension components.

4: The brake light could be because you depressed the brake pedal to the floor when pumping out the pistons on the calipers. There is a switch on the side of the master cylinder, undo it, you will hear the piston on the master cylinder pop back. Do the switch back up and the light should go out.

5: You are correct with the handbrake, it is an entirely separate unit to the rest of the brakes. Air in the lines cannot possibly make the handbrake light come on. It is more likely the brake light that is on, and not the handbrake light, see number 4.

6: The diagnosis you were given sounds to me to be not relating to the parts that were described as worn. In other words, they are talking out of their arse. IMO.

 

[s_ikari2015]

Okay, so they said that a couple of the caliper bolts weren't as tight as they could be, which after the 10th time putting them back on I might not have been as strong as I was the first time. But that doesn't make any sense because the clunk was there before and after I took the caliper off 3 times. Surely I tightened it enough at least one of the times.

The clips I've checked numerous times and they appear fine. The light is the ! in the circle and it beeps when you try to drive when it's illuminated. If it's a problem with that switch ont he master cylinder then I think that's what they were meaning, so I'm happy with that diagnosis.

I agree with you about their diagnosis for the other stuff though. It doesn't sound right. If it's the suspension making the noise then why don't I feel anything other than through the brake pedal? Also why doesn't the car wobble or pull to one side? It's smooth on the road, very smooth... even when turning.

Anyway, 12 month warranty on their work so if it doesn't fix the issue then I'll be back. I don't necessarily disagree with them that the bushes are getting old and cracked, I do disagree with them that all of a sudden they decide to go from working to catastrophic failure when I change the brakes, which shouldn't affect it...right? The bushes may need replacing, but I doubt the problem is caused by them.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

That is the hand brake light, maybe the switch on the lever has come loose and it's not contacting properly when the lever is down.

The clunk is definitely brake related. I still think it has something to do with the way the pads are fitted. Although Holden would have been the first to point it out seeing that you fitted them. Without actually looking at it, it would be hard to be sure.

Bush failure won't be caused by replacing the brakes. If they were bad enough to make a noise after the brakes were done, then they would have made the noise before.

 

[s_ikari2015]

it's just coincidental that the handbrake switch has come lose when I changed all 4 discs... lol
I'd say the clunk was more likely caused by an ever so slightly lose caliper, although the wearing on the BRAND NEW DISC was very even and clean, no rough spots or grooves or anything like that.

I dunno, all I know is that at the end of the day my car had better be fixed because I'm going to be $1,100 out of pocket :S

 

[Dayvo]

it's just coincidental that the handbrake switch has come lose when I changed all 4 discs... lol
I'd say the clunk was more likely caused by an ever so slightly lose caliper, although the wearing on the BRAND NEW DISC was very even and clean, no rough spots or grooves or anything like that.

I dunno, all I know is that at the end of the day my car had better be fixed because I'm going to be $1,100 out of pocket :S

maybe take it to a front end specialist and get them to take it for a drive so you can get a second opinion before forking out more cash .

 

[accentstencil]

The price sounds a bit excessive to me.

 

[s_ikari2015]

I'm afraid it's a bit late for professional second opinions, they've already got my car and are doing the work on it now... If I want my car back I'll have to pay them. What a pity I changed banks last week and don't have a bank card yet so I can only pay half of it on my credit card. Ho-hum. I'm sure they'll be happy to do two half payments, one today and one on Thursday when I can get some money transfered.

If the car doesn't drive like new, then I'll have reason to be upset. Other than that I AM paying for a 12 month workmanship warranty. I still think for what they've said they're doing the price seems a bit high. The service tech said "Oh I could do it at fleet for around $1,100... but I think I can get that down to around $1,050." Ahuh... more bull****. Why quote fleet for a non-fleet vehicle? I'll tell you why, so it sounds like he's trying to do me a deal.

$90/hr for a tech. They started work at 9:00am. Let's say it takes 6 hours to work on it.... 6 hours of constant work (like that happens). There's still $500 of parts to make it a cold grundy's worth. Me is suspicious.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

They have to pay for Skaifes new car somehow.

 

[VLDavo]

thats why i tend to stay well away from dealership mechanics lol they like to really shake the money out of u