Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.
Urgent!
- Thread starter taylormade93
- Start date
taylormade93
Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2012
- Messages
- 372
- Reaction score
- 20
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Adelaide
- Members Ride
- VE SSV WAGON Series 2
I've done my fuel pump (with help from dad) and my exhaust. Didn't think this would be a problem. Just wasn't prepared for the springs to be that hard to remove. Not afraid to ask "stupid" questions as I'd rather know the answer than damage something or myself tryna figure it out.
Thanks for the positive words som, this thread despite the recent comments, have me plenty of help I was just to buggered by the end of it but will start fresh tomorrow.
It's much more worthwhile and cheaper to have a go at fixing/improiving your car yourself, when knowing what you're doing. Unfortunately today I wasnt as prepared as I thought I was.
Cheers
Thanks for the positive words som, this thread despite the recent comments, have me plenty of help I was just to buggered by the end of it but will start fresh tomorrow.
It's much more worthwhile and cheaper to have a go at fixing/improiving your car yourself, when knowing what you're doing. Unfortunately today I wasnt as prepared as I thought I was.
Cheers
taylormade93
Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2012
- Messages
- 372
- Reaction score
- 20
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Adelaide
- Members Ride
- VE SSV WAGON Series 2
So turns out I had the stands under the suspension yesterday -__- I thought that was the right place and Dad said it usually would be but not for getting the springs out.
It still took a bit of work to get the standard ones out but wasn't too hard. Dad had the same idea as Sabbath, we undid the bottom shock bolt, clamped springs, he jumped on hub as I pulled out spring. Low ones popped in nice and easy!
Btw, people who say that you won't notice a difference with lows, are you freaking kidding me? I can definitely notice and think it looks 100x better. Wouldn't want to go any lower! Front springs will be done next week... at a mechanics haha
Cheers for all your help!
taylormade93
It still took a bit of work to get the standard ones out but wasn't too hard. Dad had the same idea as Sabbath, we undid the bottom shock bolt, clamped springs, he jumped on hub as I pulled out spring. Low ones popped in nice and easy!
Btw, people who say that you won't notice a difference with lows, are you freaking kidding me? I can definitely notice and think it looks 100x better. Wouldn't want to go any lower! Front springs will be done next week... at a mechanics haha
Cheers for all your help!
taylormade93
I8.A4.RE
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 123
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- ADELAIDE
- Members Ride
- VY LS1 - LANCER MY10 - VE UTE
Glad you got it sorted. You may as well have a go on the front springs. You've got the clamps already. Might as well get your moneys worth out of them and learn to do the fronts at the same time. Perhaps get yourself a workshop manual too mate.
taylormade93
Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2012
- Messages
- 372
- Reaction score
- 20
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Adelaide
- Members Ride
- VE SSV WAGON Series 2
Cheers showbags, was a good learning experience.
Dad was sorta iffy about doing the fronts, he's willing to give it a go but thinks it would be better professionally done. He knows a mechanic that if you offer to pay cash he will do it a fair bit cheaper so will see how it pans out, at the moment though i'm loving the ride height but damn i've already scrubbed on a two dips going to need to take it a bit slower over bumps and dips now I think.
Dad was sorta iffy about doing the fronts, he's willing to give it a go but thinks it would be better professionally done. He knows a mechanic that if you offer to pay cash he will do it a fair bit cheaper so will see how it pans out, at the moment though i'm loving the ride height but damn i've already scrubbed on a two dips going to need to take it a bit slower over bumps and dips now I think.
taylormade93
Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2012
- Messages
- 372
- Reaction score
- 20
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Adelaide
- Members Ride
- VE SSV WAGON Series 2
haha only lows so it's more like having an empty trailer, but yeah will fix it up sometime in the near future - not in a rush to do so though.
som
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2011
- Messages
- 400
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 0
- Location
- thorneside qld
- Members Ride
- vt executive
You had a win mate.that's great,I reckon get Dad to help and definitely consider doing the front. Just make sure that you check out your top plates and bearings when you dismantle the strut.There's a few videos on You Tube that will help but it's pretty straight forward.Take care not to have excessive weight on your brake hoses.The manual would be good value.
som
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2011
- Messages
- 400
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 0
- Location
- thorneside qld
- Members Ride
- vt executive
I've just had a read through both of your threads and mostly they've been good comments from both yourself and other members.
You know you've done a good job so far so when you're making decisions re tyres suspension etc I think that when it's all finished you want it to look great but also you want it to work. The deal is..cheap tyres are usually crap but at the end of the day they're still a big regular expense. Good tyres cost a lot more(for good reasons) and become a huge regular expense.Condition of your suspension and steering parts,tyre pressures,the way you drive and correct wheel alignment all contribute to tyre wear.
Here's the point- a 2 point IRS kit will give you camber adjustment-absolutely essential on a VT Commodore that has any tyres with a wider and lower profile than a standard 205/65/15.A 4 point IRS kit gives you camber and toe adjustment-also essential. Incorrect camber causes excessive tyre wear (no one's arguing about that) Incorrect toe adjustment causes tyres to scrub out(some may disagree on that but it's a fact) A 4 point kit doesn't cost much more than a 2 point and doesn't take much longer to fit. With correct alignment the money you will save on tyres will pay for kit very quickly. Make some phone calls to suspension and performance specialists and wheel aligners.They will all agree.
Again, good luck
You know you've done a good job so far so when you're making decisions re tyres suspension etc I think that when it's all finished you want it to look great but also you want it to work. The deal is..cheap tyres are usually crap but at the end of the day they're still a big regular expense. Good tyres cost a lot more(for good reasons) and become a huge regular expense.Condition of your suspension and steering parts,tyre pressures,the way you drive and correct wheel alignment all contribute to tyre wear.
Here's the point- a 2 point IRS kit will give you camber adjustment-absolutely essential on a VT Commodore that has any tyres with a wider and lower profile than a standard 205/65/15.A 4 point IRS kit gives you camber and toe adjustment-also essential. Incorrect camber causes excessive tyre wear (no one's arguing about that) Incorrect toe adjustment causes tyres to scrub out(some may disagree on that but it's a fact) A 4 point kit doesn't cost much more than a 2 point and doesn't take much longer to fit. With correct alignment the money you will save on tyres will pay for kit very quickly. Make some phone calls to suspension and performance specialists and wheel aligners.They will all agree.
Again, good luck
Last edited by a moderator: