This was the only thread I found on this subject. hence my experience below ; hopefully it maybe to someone's benefit.
I did it the so called "proper way", by adjusting the toothed wheel thru the hole in the disk hub. I found the adjusting wheel would not move up or down. I decided to have a look. The shoe is one piece like circular channel tapered and cut off between 5:30 and 6:30 to fit into the adjusting wheel.
To get the disk off I removed the 18mm caliper bolts (that felt tightened well beyond the 90ft lb), than using a smaller dia bolt and nuts thru the caliper bolt holes to tension the disc, followed by a couple of sharp blows between the studs it loosened the rusted on disc. (Btw this method may have unseated the shoe material but didn’t on the other side.)
Once the disc was off, I could see that the shoe material on the forward side of the one piece shoe was adrift, the bonding had 30 % let go, and the adjuster wheel frozen.
I bought a new shoe kit from the local auto 1 shop, and began dismantling. Inside the shoe was a wire spring. It was held in by two clips at 3 and 9 o'clock and tension under the top of the shoe, after prizing etc in the tight space the wire was unclipped and juggled out, than the one piece shoe slid over the hub. Now the fun part.. the kit came with various wire springs and clips. The identical wire spring was selected and placed.. eh juggled etc under the clips, however the top of the spring was sticking out, so it was given a sharp blow with a good size screw driver and it clicked in under the rim of the shoe.
Prior, I had taken the adjuster mechanism apart, I don’t know why but the wheel end was very tight the screw-in housing, there was plenty of grease in it so I added some more anti-sieze and loosened it up.
I’m thinking that there surely must be an easier way to get that wire holding spring in position under the retaining clips at 3 & 9 o’clock without skinned knuckles.
This system does not seem to work like the old drum brakes where you adjust the shoes up till the drum is tight than back off . I clicked over the adjusting wheel so that on 4 clicks of the lever the hub l did not rotate. It was a lot of back and forth.
Left side lever adjusting wheel down to tighten
Right side lever adjusting wheel up to tighten