VE Light Front Collision Repair

[Fu Manchu]

Not my images. The great work of someone on a G8 forum from memory.

 

[Unbender]

Thank you - I’d memorised them by colour but that’s a good cross-check and general reference. I’ve never seen “inside” an official GM parts program to know whether they also do the Euro thing of noting the part (or marking) colours to help with ID.

Last Holden I worked on much was a conversion of column shift LS Monaro to GTS clone, 26 years ago. Owner killed it by lack of talent within three months.

 

[VS 5.0]

The great work of someone on a G8 forum

Explains why the first pic in particular didn't make sense.

 

[Unbender]

I’ve a question about the OEM trans cooler line seals. They‘re a green polymer so likely HNBR or FKM material. I measured about 9,52 ID x 2mm.

General listings are showing the closest common size for this inside diameter at 1,78mm cross-section, or in the old money 3/8” by 70 thou. Did GM reinvent the wheel or am I mis-measuring?

 

[Fu Manchu]

I’m pretty sure they are the same as that used on the power steering lines. They are 3/8ths pipes. Makes sense.

Will be good to hear because I’m trying to find some o-rings for my VZ power steering lines. This will clarify it.

@07GTS did some mucking about with o-rings and the discussion had good info from JC members about them. Really interesting, and they are just o-rings!

 

[Unbender]

Some transmission line O-rings. The supplier (no affiliation, I’m a walk-up customer) concurred with my sizing of 3/8” ID by 68 thou, this is their equivalent. But if it works as intended, these details should help a few people.

A bit stuck on the AC; my usual go-to (Craig @ “AC Mobile Auto Air”) is on holiday in Europe.

The bonded seals, are they best bought from a dealer or are aftermarket mostly OK? I removed the lines to firewall when blowing in the rail repairs, and normally renew seals at this age after dismantling.

Also, the paired line from compressor manifold to top of condenser, this one here is twisted even after I’ve done my best to cold straighten it. Are automotive AC hardlines able to be lightly heated without forming abrasive oxides internally? I remember being told this was why residential fridgies used virgin copper paircoil instead of reworking.

If it’s a no-go, is it true the S1 SIDI lines are different/unique? I’ve seen wrecker adverts which suggest this. Can’t see why they would be, though.

Cheers

 

[Fu Manchu]

You should be able to get the o-rings from Holden.

 

[Unbender]

You should be able to get the o-rings from Holden.

I’d be confident you’re right - but to test a maybe more convenient source for everyone I’m going to roll the dice on some OEX seals from Repco (etc), each size is apparently in a five-pack. CPX4054 through CPX4056, going up in size per each number. Punching in these numbers and the vehicle spec, their part finder says “Fits your car“.

If Repco can retail each pack for about $15 then trade through Baxters etc will be peanuts. Should know by next Sunday at the latest, if they fit as OEM does.

For chuckles I’ve attached a picture of the steering cooler I made from cutting off the crashed condenser portion. I popped off the bottom mount lugs to cut it, then reassembled. I’ll probably keep it for another temporary job.

 

[Unbender]

After a week of diversions and then the ‘flu, returning to focus.

I can confirm those OEX seals whose part numbers I gave before, are a perfect interchange for the originals. The 2010 pieces were still supple but had slightly compressed, as I’d bought the others it was no problem to change them out. They might have still sealed fine, but why waste refrigerant to find they didn’t?

Attached an image of how I dealt with what is possibly a common problem, fragile plastic retainer fingers at the fan shroud base where trans cooler lines pass. Also a black mark on the Koyo radiator, the hard line spring clips are a bee’s whatever too large for the plastic safety rings that slide over - I had to fit genuine GM clips.

Going cheap on the condenser (Adair) has shown me up, the lower mount pegs are pop riveted on - not clipped like OEM - and they’re 7mm off centre.

I admit to being completely lost on where the baffle pieces pictured, go. They had self-dismantled either in the original collision or my first pulls to untangle stuff. I might have also added more than used, from the various donor parts bought.