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ve sv6 engine stopped

krusing

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Exactly the same scenario with my Nephew, earlier this year [2012 Series 2 V6 [LXF] Thunder Ute]
He was driving home from work in peak hour traffic, with the rest of the turtle traffic.
No Lights, No Noise, No Oil, No Go,
Couple of days later, found a LFX, Picked it up during the week, [Jollys Wreckers in Dandenong South]
pulled the old one out on the Saturday,
Put a replacement LFX in on Sunday, the rest is history.
The bonnet now gets lifted a few times a week.
Moral of the story,
"CHECK YOUR OIL AT LEASE ONCE A WEEK"
 
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RossK

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Yep, the LLT and the LFX aren't like earlier motors, they seem to use some oil.
My LLT gets a top up once a month. Total usage between services (10,000km) is 0.5L to 1.5L depending on driving style/usage etc.
From memory the Holden spec is something like 1L every 3000km is deemed as normal.
So, you could burn up 5L of your 6.5L capacity between scheduled services and be within Holdens specification o_O
 

vywgn

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Get a socket on the crank pulley bolt and try turning it if that doesn't turn your motor is dead
 

greenacc

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Yep, the LLT and the LFX aren't like earlier motors, they seem to use some oil.
My LLT gets a top up once a month. Total usage between services (10,000km) is 0.5L to 1.5L depending on driving style/usage etc.
From memory the Holden spec is something like 1L every 3000km is deemed as normal.
So, you could burn up 5L of your 6.5L capacity between scheduled services and be within Holdens specification o_O
What oil do you use in it? Have you tried a synthetic 5W-40?
 

RossK

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What oil do you use in it? Have you tried a synthetic 5W-40?
I'm using a Dexos approved 5W-30, we've had the car since new and it's been like this since day 1. I've heard reports of better and worse oil consumption from these motors.
 
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greenacc

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I'm using a Dexos approved 5W-30, we've had the car since new and it's been like this since day 1. I've heard reports of better and worse oil consumption from these motors.
Ok, well if that was my car I would use a 5W-40 next service and that should reduce the oil consumption.
There's a fairly common school of thought that the 5-30 spec is there to squeeze every drop of fuel economy out of it to get the lowest figure for advertising and sales, rather than the grade that will give you the longest life of the engine.
Choose a dexos approved 5W-40 if you believe the Dexos mantra but I ignore it and choose a quality full syn 5W-40 for my Leo and it runs like a dream.
 

krusing

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Best advice yet!

After you remove the Spark Plugs FIRST.
That is always the first thing you should always do,

Worst part is to get the motor out when seized, and its an Automatic !
where a manual will pull apart from bellhousing and clutch,
No so with an Auto,
Its best to support the transmission from underneath, then pull the engine forward with the torque converter,
[don't let it swing back onto the Trans input shaft]
Lift it out of the engine bay CAREFULLY with the torque converter in place,
When you get it out, lower it down to the ground and make sure its balanced while still connected/supported to the engine crane,

Then with another person with a breaker bar on the front crank bolt,
And get a big flat blade screw driver, and wedge it between the bell housing locating pin, and the teeth on the backing plate,
you should be able to turn it [if your both trying to turn it the same way] bit by bit,
then you should be able to access the torque converter bolts via the starter motor hole, then remove each bolt [6 in total i think]
And when you do get the torque converter off, "don't tip it upside down",
But carefully place it back onto the transmission input shaft,
Then get a coat hanger wire, and sting it across the front of the bell housing so the torque converter wont fall out,
Or
use a piece of steel approx 200mm long with hole in one end, to bolt on the the bell housing, and swing it around and place on front of the torque converter to hold it in.
Then prepare the replacement engine.
 
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