VF Tow Bar Wiring Harness

[Pelaoalex]

Hi everyone ,im new at this forum and i need help please
I got VF COMMODORE 2014 sedan, i wanna install a tow bar which i have ,but i dont have the ecu wiring harness , where can i get it ,? Is easy to wire up or is plug n play ? Or any suggestion please
Thank you for reading my post

 

[Skylarking]

Spare parts prices have gone nuts of late* … but you can get the genuine article a little cheaper if you use google …

https://www.alanmancestore.com.au/g...-wiring-harness-suits-wagon-vf-commodore.html

Just remember that the vehicle needs to be programmed to provide the tow bar feature within MyLink, else reverse sensors will drive you nuts with the tow bar attached.

* back in 2018, complete genu8ne tow bar with harness was $600

 

[Geoff6666]

Also the trailer lights will not work unless programmed around $100-$150 from a stealer.

 

[Pelaoalex]

Also the trailer lights will not work unless programmed around $100-$150 from a stealer.
Thx
Even if is after market one?

 

[goony]

Hi,
My experience after fitting a second hand genuine bar and new genuine module:
1. Contact a dealer parts office with your vin, make sure the part number suits your model . I was told the module can be model specific but cannot attest to the truth of this. Do this before buying online etc and try a couple of dealers to price check the part if you need to.
2. The install is fairly simple in the battery compartment it was plug and play, had the correct part
3. I was also told by the service dept. I'd need to spend about $180 getting the car programmed. I can attest to the bullshit of this on my car - it recognised the trailer once it was plugged in, changes the trans shifting pattern, doesn't alarm the sensors etc, and changes the blinkers from 3 to 6 flashes when you 'bump' the stick. Not sure everyone has this outcome.
4. The trim part # around your bumper cut out varies by model also, good to sort out when you buy the module.
5. Check you have the right bolts too when dealing with 1 & 4. From memory new bolts recommended and less than $20.

and take it easy removing the bumper facsia as you could stuff the parking sensor connectors if you too have love fingers. $$$, or epoxy...

If you'd like a couple of pics of the wiring in the battery area let me know.
Good luck.

 

[Pelaoalex]

Hi,
My experience after fitting a second hand genuine bar and new genuine module:
1. Contact a dealer parts office with your vin, make sure the part number suits your model . I was told the module can be model specific but cannot attest to the truth of this. Do this before buying online etc and try a couple of dealers to price check the part if you need to.
2. The install is fairly simple in the battery compartment it was plug and play, had the correct part
3. I was also told by the service dept. I'd need to spend about $180 getting the car programmed. I can attest to the bullshit of this on my car - it recognised the trailer once it was plugged in, changes the trans shifting pattern, doesn't alarm the sensors etc, and changes the blinkers from 3 to 6 flashes when you 'bump' the stick. Not sure everyone has this outcome.
4. The trim part # around your bumper cut out varies by model also, good to sort out when you buy the module.
5. Check you have the right bolts too when dealing with 1 & 4. From memory new bolts recommended and less than $20.

and take it easy removing the bumper facsia as you could stuff the parking sensor connectors if you too have love fingers. $$$, or epoxy...

If you'd like a couple of pics of the wiring in the battery area let me know.
Good luck.

Hi mate ,thx you for your post ,it will help me a lot ,and yes pleaae if you could add those pic would a great help ,thx you

 

[goony]

Sorry to be a bit slow. With the pic, that is

The module labelled TK is pretty simple to install, think I had to drill holes to mount it and so deal with swarf carefully was the hard part.

The wring loom coming out of the module goes all the way to the trailer socket and also has a plug connection into the socket with foam wrap you can see in the pic. Everything here is plug-in.

Only other thing I needed was some sika 227 to seal around the grommet where the wiring loom passes through the spare wheel tub liner.

The genuine kit came with install instructions and templates too, and the wires are pre-crimped making the socket easy to install too.

cheers.

 

[Pelaoalex]

Sorry to be a bit slow. With the pic, that is

The module labelled TK is pretty simple to install, think I had to drill holes to mount it and so deal with swarf carefully was the hard part.

The wring loom coming out of the module goes all the way to the trailer socket and also has a plug connection into the socket with foam wrap you can see in the pic. Everything here is plug-in.

Only other thing I needed was some sika 227 to seal around the grommet where the wiring loom passes through the spare wheel tub liner.

The genuine kit came with install instructions and templates too, and the wires are pre-crimped making the socket easy to install too.

cheers.

Thx you for the pic mate ,you bien a great help ,you also mention TK for the harness is that for holden ? And the sensor i check then out n yes they are really tricky to take then out but ill be carefull

 

[Ibz]

Hi everyone, does anyone know why my left and right indicators are flashing fast and the dash is displaying "check trailer left and right lamp and check trailer rear lamp" happened after installing original tow module and loom, does it even with it unplugged.

 

[Skylarking]

Hi everyone, does anyone know why my left and right indicators are flashing fast and the dash is displaying "check trailer left and right lamp and check trailer rear lamp" happened after installing original tow module and loom, does it even with it unplugged.

May be a faulty module? Check wiring and plugs and if all ok talk to seller

Other than that, are you using led bulbs in the rear lamps of your car? If so, install incandescent bulbs and see if that resolves the issue.

I also vaguely remember reading that some female trailer plugs had a read switch with a magnet on the flap. Such an arrangement would signal the module when the trailer plug was in use (flap opened). In such cases the module must have had a wire for such signalling… but not sure if Holden ever used such systems in their genuine tow bar wiring and modules.