304 VN AERO REBUILD (304 stroked to 350ci flat top pistons std 4" bore)

[Deuce]

Need to decide whether should upgrade to arp head studs or stay with arp bolts
Just looking at clearance issues on primary header pipes
Might be safer bet to stay with bolts

Now focus on checking valve clearance on piston with new Marshall cam … after weekend

I've got studs in mine. I actually measured clearance to the header flange and cut down about 4 or 5 studs (on a horizontal band saw nice and slowly) so those close ones that are a factory Allen head cap bolt are now almost flush with top of stud nut.

 

[losh1971]

You lowering the body onto the k frame with engine on the mounts? If going in from the top you will have to pass the extractors from underneath. I've tried for well over an hour to get them in from the top before realising it can't be done, with the extra length over stockies.

 

[bjf66]

i imagine with bellhousing on block things would be tighter to move headers around. When I phoned castle headers this afternoon and gave them the ID of header that was stamped on bottom of exhaust flange, they advise headers had to be installed from underneath car
at this stage I'm not sure what I will do, as just wanted to trial fit to see whether they were correct
will come back to it latter
need to get short block together
great to have the support

 

[losh1971]

The issue is aftermarket headers, won't get past the chassis rails with the engine in.

 

[losh1971]

I'm loving this build BTW, you obviously have some skill in being able to build an engine and not botch it up. Over the years I have seen some dodgy work, and on here have read about people who unlike you, obviously have little to no skill and you end up cringing with what they do.... But what you're doing demonstrates you have a fair amount of knowledge.

 

[gtrboyy]

It's not forced induction or crazy high comp n/s so arp head bolts will do just fine.

Main reason if ever want pull heads off in car highly doubt it be possible to get head over the studs & clear booster at same time...even less to no chance if upgrade to vt booster lol.

Good head gaskets with better than factory clamping really good tune can't see it being much of an issue.

To fit big pipes in yes from underneath do it before fitting starter or steering rack in car...easier with them not fitted,no sparkplugs & probably still need to jack engine up a tad to slide them in without banging around.

Not the hardest job but just right amount of annoying even if done a few lol

 

[Immortality]

I'd slip the header in before dropping the motor in.

Or do it as you drop the motor in, when it's up enough to slip it in and then drop the motor the last bit before it's on the mounts.

 

[bjf66]

I'm loving this build BTW, you obviously have some skill in being able to build an engine and not botch it up. Over the years I have seen some dodgy work, and on here have read about people who unlike you, obviously have little to no skill and you end up cringing with what they do.... But what you're doing demonstrates you have a fair amount of knowledge.

I just like to do things myself then I know what’s been done
It may not be quickest however life is learning curve it’s part of the journey as the old man use to say
These holdens are learning curve for me normally use to play with Chev BB
But will get there

 

[bjf66]

It's not forced induction or crazy high comp n/s so arp head bolts will do just fine.

Main reason if ever want pull heads off in car highly doubt it be possible to get head over the studs & clear booster at same time...even less to no chance if upgrade to vt booster lol.

Good head gaskets with better than factory clamping really good tune can't see it being much of an issue.

To fit big pipes in yes from underneath do it before fitting starter or steering rack in car...easier with them not fitted,no sparkplugs & probably still need to jack engine up a tad to slide them in without banging around.

Not the hardest job but just right amount of annoying even if done a few lol

It's not forced induction or crazy high comp n/s so arp head bolts will do just fine.

Main reason if ever want pull heads off in car highly doubt it be possible to get head over the studs & clear booster at same time...even less to no chance if upgrade to vt booster lol.

Good head gaskets with better than factory clamping really good tune can't see it being much of an issue.

To fit big pipes in yes from underneath do it before fitting starter or steering rack in car...easier with them not fitted,no sparkplugs & probably still need to jack engine up a tad to slide them in without banging around.

Not the hardest job but just right amount of annoying even if done a few lol

gtrboyy
yes i agree, will more than likely stay with ARP bolts for simplicity and easy of fitting with exhaust manifolds
pipes are close to steering rack, would be beneficial in car to remove the rack to give a little more clearance

 

[Deuce]

I wonder if you would be able to install the engine with the drivers side header on, as that is always the painful one to get in/out. I've not had trouble with starter side header with Coby or large diameter pacemaker headers on mine.

I have thought about going to high quality studs for the headers too. At the moment I am using ARP header bolts with 12pt small diameter heads for ease of install.
I had chrome cap screws before that.
I can't remember if I ever had factory stud's in mine....