VR EV6 & 4L60E into vn s2 or vp conversion

[delcowizzid]

should only take 6 minutes to erase a 27c010 eprom any more and they start getting damaged

 

[sparksy82]

o ok I well leave it on its 6min run and ok I tryed but still no starter motor or injectors but the fuel pump is working this time so im going to have to go over it all and see y
theres power at the injectors and starter but no go lol
is it cos theres no water in the motor ? I only wish to start it so I can tape up the loom and hide it all

 

[Jxfwsf]

ahh the joys of eproms and socket adapters, due to bad contacts on numerous occasions and my programmer getting on in age i tend to do as above with the socket and adapter between most reads/writes & verifies, also have a habit of turning the memcal adapters 180 degrees on the final verify to make sure it worked.

 

[delcowizzid]

ide say you have wiring issues looking at the above diagrams you have ALDL data going to TCC clutch and other things LOL

 

[sparksy82]

how do you over come not having a air flow sensor

 

[sparksy82]

I have spat it lol and cut the vn up and sold it has scrap . and got a vr now to stick the l67 In it vs motor harness and ecu In to a vr berlina will it work ?? with malf 31 theft deterrent signal missing /set

 

[GypsyNz]

Fairly simple conversion for a VN S2 or VP.
To do this in a VN S1 you will need to change the plugs as they are not compatible and won't plug into each other.

You'll need the vr ev6 engine or vn/vp 3.8(with cam position sensor), 4l60e trans, wiring loom to suit, vr ecu and some console bits for the pwr/eco switch.

You will need to have some modifications done to the memcal in the vr ecu unless you are installing the bcm and key head
This tutorial is for wiring a vr auto & loom into the existing vn s2/vp wiring without using the bcm

I can provide a standard tune memcal with vats disabled cheaply if needed or copy your existing tune to a compatible vr memcal, prefer change over basis
or i can mail a chip and socket.





The conversion:

To start with you'll need to change the pin config of both YE 51 (6 pin Engine harness connector near the battery) and
YB 62 (9 pin connector near the ecu plugs for the dash wiring)


YE 51 mods:

You'll need to move 1 pin on the VR auto loom to feed power to the 4L60E, as the VN loom populates a different terminal do the following:

to

Now to the body side of YE 51.

Unwrap the loom near the fuse/relay box to expose the wires going to the plug/pin use a multimeter in continuity mode to make sure you have the right one before cutting, cut the wire from the splice going to the plug/pin, leave the splice in tact and re-insulate it.
This is not a switched positive and you don't want 12 volts to the trans when the car is off (you'll end up with a flat battery).

Now splice it into the orange/red wire which is a fused/relayed switched positive for the ecu and injectors, or you could add your own relay and fuse if you want.

Wrap some loom tape around it all and tuck it back down out of the way and you're done for this part.




YB 62:

Change the wiring layout for YB 62 so it looks like this.

The Red and white wires that are now free are the aldl data and diagnostic mode select wires. If you have a 16 pin OBDII plug that you can use feed these wires to it, alternatively use the old plug from the VN engine loom and put the connectors in that to keep them out of the way and safe.

Tuck them up with the rest in the connector from the old engine loom for future reference.

Pwr/Eco Switch and speedo drive:

If you're never going to be fitting a TH700 again you can chop the plugs off from the trans tunnel and feed the wires back into the cabin.



Separate the Purple/White trace & Grey/Red trace wire and join them together.
This now completes the circuit from the ECU to the speedo, In the VN/VP the speedometer is driven from the trans, where the VR drives it from the ECU.

Have now put a Level 3 cluster in the vehicle, everything including the PWR light operates correctly with the above mods.

Find the light blue wire and separate it from the remaining wires.
Tape the unused wires up making sure to insulate them, the 2 pink wires are +12V and the black is a GND.
Hopefully you have all the console parts from a VR/VS with the pwr/eco switch to install.

Feed the black wire from the switch to an earth point (The grey/red wire i cut off the old vn loom with the connector tec screwed to the shifter plate worked for me)
Now connect the blue wire from the the VN wiring to one of the blue wires on the pwr/eco switch, also add another wire fom the blue and feed it up behind the dash cluster to the left side connection.

With some handy work pop out the connector and terminal for the PWR shift - (pin 7), on the bottom row of pins join the wire and put it all back together.

If your cluster doesn't have the cutout for the globe for the pwr shift -, mod the cluster carefully with a sharp craft knife and put a globe in.

make sure you use the pwr shift - socket and not the pwr shift + on the l2 cluster, if using a l3 cluster it only has 1 pwr light so just wire it to the same point above.

That's basically it except for the O2 sensor, as the VN/VP use a 2 wire sensor close to the engine and the VR uses a 4 Wire sensor down near the cat, you can relocate the VR's o2 plug up the loom or wire the vn/vp 2 wire plug into the loom to use the VN/VP Y pipe as the 4 wire O2 sensor heater is not connected through the ecu but just uses a +ve feed when the ignition is turned on.

Alternatively just use a VR Y pipe and leave the VR O2 sensor in place as it reads both engine banks, this requires a gentle massage with a hammer to the heat shield on the body otherwise the end of the O2 sensor sits a bit to close once all installed. You cannot install the 2 wire O2 sensor in the VR Y pipes location as it's to far away from the engine to get to it's operating temperature.

This post is purely a guide to anyone that is looking for information about fitting an EV6 & 4l60e into an earlier type of vehicle.

It is up to you to double check all info provided is correct eg. wire colors.

I take no responsibility if you follow this guide and the car explodes, you loose body parts or the transmission falls out.

 

[GypsyNz]

The light blue wire for the power economy switch is that sposed to be powered as mines got nothing, everything else worked a treat but not this

 

[Jxfwsf]

The blue wire coming from the cluster (PWR light) that you had to run should read a positive voltage (and light up PWR when grounded), it's using the globe as a pull up resistor.
The other blue wire from the pcm harness won't read anything until it's joined to the other blue wire.

PWR mode the light should be on and no voltage at the blue wire.
Norm mode the light should be off and a positive voltage should be on the blue wire at the switch.
If the globe is blown or not connected right then it won't work.

Guessing you worked out your no spark problem and got it running?

 

[GypsyNz]

The blue wire coming from the cluster (PWR light) that you had to run should read a positive voltage (and light up PWR when grounded), it's using the globe as a pull up resistor.
The other blue wire from the pcm harness won't read anything until it's joined to the other blue wire.

PWR mode the light should be on and no voltage at the blue wire.
Norm mode the light should be off and a positive voltage should be on the blue wire at the switch.
If the globe is blown or not connected right the it won't work.

Cheers much appreciated, awesome right up this. You've made it easy for anyone doing it, i just got a bit confused with this last bit.....