Vs Calais manual conversion 5-speed getrag

[Hezabot]

I'm in the middle or a manual conversion from a standard vs executive to a vs Calais with the getrag box.

I'm trying to find out what my options are as in unsure. Should I use the manual wiring loom from the executive (I'm a bit weiry as the Calais has the abs, cruise control etc) so the loom won't have the extras for that...

If I don't use the manual loom can I still use the manual ecu? Also I've been told the bcm and key has to be changed over aswell. Also don't wanna do this as the key for the Calais has the boot button.

Also I've heard when converting the speedo won't work and the reverse light won't work. I'm not sure if that just if I use the auto loom and or ecu or if no matter what I will have to be doing extra wiring?

If someone could shed some light on this subject for me that would be great.

 

[_R_J_K_]

BCM and keys only need to be changed/linked from VT onwards, you're fine with the BCM you have already. Change of BCM would mean the loss of a lot of Calais features too.

Use the manual engine loom, it shouldn't touch ABS or Cruise, they should be separate from the engine and aren't controlled by the ECU.

Now that you're using the manual ECU, speedo won't be a problem. Speedo is typically an issue with the T5 as it uses a different speed sensor to the auto. As long as the correct (or converted auto) ECU is used, it's not a problem. In the case of the Getrag it has the same speed sensor as the automatic, so you could even use the auto ECU with the Getrag memcal.

Reverse lights won't be a problem with the manual loom either.

 

[EYY]

For the getrag, all you need to do is put the manual memcal into the auto computer.

Leave the wiring loom as it is, with the exception of cutting the two wires for the auto VSS off, and joining them to the manual VSS. Extend the wires from the inhibitor plug for the reverse lights down to the reverse light switch on the gearbox itself. Then bridge the start wires on the inhibitor plug. Wrap the auto plug up in tape and hide it above the gearbox (just incase you ever want to convert back to auto)

That's all you need to do for the wiring side of things. It takes literally 10 minutes to do. The biggest problem is that the gearbox crossmember won't bolt up to the early VR/VS models as it sits further forward than the t5 or auto crossmembers. The later models had captive nuts to accommodate the getrag crossmember. It's not hard to get nuts inside the rail if you have the ability to fabricate/hack stuff

 

[zeropalooba]

I'm in the process of swapping my ecotec/4L60E for an L67/Getrag. The Getrag cross member uses two of the bolt holes that are already there for the automatic cross member (Getrag rear-most holes are the same as the 4L60E front-most holes). I plan to cut smallish holes in the floor, weld the two required captive nuts and then weld up the holes in the floor. That should test my almost non-existent welding skills.