VS Ecotec Modifications/rebuild

[MACE]

here they are i don't know if i should bid on them or not eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

I would pay closer to $200 for that setup. As the middle muffler may be stuffed, plus the fact that it's missing the rear one so it will be loud. The price is good I guess, assuming it's all in working order and hasn't been molested during the removal (read bent). Otherwise it could be a PITA for installation.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[darcycammo]

I would pay closer to $200 for that setup. As the middle muffler may be stuffed, plus the fact that it's missing the rear one so it will be loud. The price is good I guess, assuming it's all in working order and hasn't been molested during the removal (read bent). Otherwise it could be a PITA for installation.

Cheers,
Steve

Oh well i didn't end up buying them anyway LOL

Okay came across another problem when i went to put the main bearing blocks from the VS into the VX block to hold the crankshaft in it wouldn't wouldn't turn so we had to put the VX blocks back in hope to have the the lower half of the engine back together tonight and put in the car some time this week.

 

[MACE]

Oh well i didn't end up buying them anyway LOL

Okay came across another problem when i went to put the main bearing blocks from the VS into the VX block to hold the crankshaft in it wouldn't wouldn't turn so we had to put the VX blocks back in hope to have the the lower half of the engine back together tonight and put in the car some time this week.

You can't mix and match main caps, unless you're planning on getting the tunnel honed.

Technically you can even mix and match caps from the same engine (they need to be clearly numbered from where they came from), otherwise you'll run the risk of spinning a main bearing.

This is the same for the connecting rods as well.

If you haven't done this my advice would be to take all those parts to your local machinist to hone/resize otherwise it may all end in tears with a spun bearing

 

[darcycammo]

Once again more problems the crankshaft just would not spin in the VX block doesn't matter if all the screws were undone holding it down you had to put to much pressure on it to turn witch would of ####ed the starter motor so all pulled apart again and is half put back onto the VS block and you can turn it with one finger so there must be a little difference between the to blocks

 

[darcycammo]

Okay engine is ready to go back into the car hopefully back in by the end of Sunday and running buy Tuesday

 

[MACE]

Please triple check the tunnel bore of the crank to see if it's still in spec

Otherwise I can wait to hear about it running

 

[darcycammo]

Okay little set back today i got an engine crane to use will be going in tomorrow when i get home from buying a couple more things to finish it hopefully Tuesday it will be going

 

[MACE]

Ah good, crane will make life a lot easier

 

[darcycammo]

Okay another ####ing problem LOL broke one of the flywheel bolts inside the crankshaft i don't think there meant to be tightened up to 90nm like it says in the book so it looks like i will have to drill it out and put some new bolts in other then that it was already to put into the car oh well

 

[MACE]

Okay another ####ing problem LOL broke one of the flywheel bolts inside the crankshaft i don't think there meant to be tightened up to 90nm like it says in the book so it looks like i will have to drill it out and put some new bolts in other then that it was already to put into the car oh well

The are, however they're a torque to yield bolt. Meaning that they stretch after they've been torqued to factory specs and are technically only a one time use item (cannot be used again otherwise will likely break as you've experienced)