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VX L67 no cam signal? error 47,49

malb

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Hi guys im a newbee here from NZ.

I have a VX L67 and have done a few mods to it and have a kalmaker tunable ecu from Al

I just had it on the dyno and it was all going well. i had driven it around for about 2-3 hrs, parked up went for another drive and it started to missed fire a little.

took it home and found the oxygen sensor was a little loose, tightened it back up and still had the miss, checked plugs and found 1 had cracked the white peice replaced plug and still the same.

then tried to start it and it wouldn't start at all

I plugged in my laptop to see what was happening (new to the software and tuning) but i found it had no cam signal and 47,49 error code had come up.

I replaced the crank sensor/cam sensor and have replace the ignition module it now started but still have a miss and it still say's no cam signal and error 47,49

I have heard of the magnet on the cam sprocket coming off but very rear and i can see the little black bit on there when the cam sensor is out.

any help would be great as i'm chasing a ghost and getting a bit fxxxxxd off as no one in nz can help or dont want to so im on my own here.

I'm not a mechanic but have done everything myself i.e intercooler,boost upgrade, lifters, new ecu so can do anything really nut not sure what to look for.

Cheers if you need any more info let me no

thanks Malb
 

VK SL 3800

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Do a compression test, a miss is not always an ignition or fuel problem. Check the injectors.

Cam signal can fault if the cam is too far out of time in the tune parameters to the crank signal if it has been advanced or retarded.
 

malb

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I can reset the dtc fault and it fires up ok without a miss then the miss comes in once the dtc shows up, but ill check comp,

I havn't changed timing, It was running sweet until the oxygen sensor was loose and i changed the ignition module then it wouldnt start, then put the new ignition module in and it started and ran fine then triggered the dtc and started to miss.

i have got kalmaker tuning software and tuneable ecu and have a map sensor instead of maf, do you think s should double check the wiring? on the ignition module and the connections
Thanks for your help ill check the comp.
 

chriso-k

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Ok, this model has a cam sensor on the front of the engine. Have you checked this? If you're computer is reporting a signal issue for the cam, then check the cam sensor for issues. The cam sensor signal is used by the computer so the fueling of the engine reverts to sequential operation
 

malb

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Yip Checked it and have put a new one in

New cam sensor/new crank sensor/new ignition module.

Could anything come off inside the front cover as i heard something when trying to crank it over when it didn't start,
As it starts now but miss fires after setting dtc code it has to have something to do with cam sensor wiring or something inside front cover, on the american web site they have had a couple of issues with the magnet coming off but is rear.

When i remove the cam sensor and move the cam around i can see the little black peice on the cam sprocket but it feels a
little loose, I will remove the front cover if needed but want to check if this could be the issue?

All the wiring looks good but can i check voltage on the cam sensor plug to make sure i got voltage?

Thanks guys for your help its good to have another set of brains helping
 

Decicrate

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If you have replaced the sensors and the magnet is still in the cam sprocket, then you my have a bad wire.
Grab a multimeter and check the wiring for the crank and cam sensor.
 

chriso-k

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Technically speaking a logged cam sensor fault in the ECU will not cause a "no start" condition. The cam sensor signal is only used for sequential injection purposes only. My advise is this > check to see if you have spark at one or more plugs. Check to see if you have injector pulse. If you don't know how to do this, Then an alternative would be to simply squirt aerostart continuously in the intake, for around 3-4 seconds and see if you get a start out of the engine. On this model, you can idle the engine by feeding it aerostart. But dont rev it, it will ping its head off. If you have no spark, next step would be to check your harmonic balancer for any issues. These have a known issue where the fingers that pass through the crank sensor dislodge/break and results in a loss of spark. Lastly, as for your cam code, do a complete continuity check between the cam sensor back to the ECU. Failing this, I'd say you may have a software conflict issue within the ECU. You may need to have your software reflashed. Throw in a standard ECU, as a test unit, and see if this fixes your problem. But you'd need to have the replacement ECU programmed into your system. Oh, by the way, check to see if you have a good connection at the DFI module. This is also a well known area of issues. A bad connection can develop there causing a shut down of the system. I think from memory, it's the purple wire, but check all of them to be sure
Yip Checked it and have put a new one in

New cam sensor/new crank sensor/new ignition module.

Could anything come off inside the front cover as i heard something when trying to crank it over when it didn't start,
As it starts now but miss fires after setting dtc code it has to have something to do with cam sensor wiring or something inside front cover, on the american web site they have had a couple of issues with the magnet coming off but is rear.

When i remove the cam sensor and move the cam around i can see the little black peice on the cam sprocket but it feels a
little loose, I will remove the front cover if needed but want to check if this could be the issue?

All the wiring looks good but can i check voltage on the cam sensor plug to make sure i got voltage?

Thanks guys for your help its good to have another set of brains helping
 
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malb

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The car does start and run fine until the dtc error comes up on the computer software which is about 10 or so seconds,
every sensor is new cam/crank/ignition mod/coils/leads and the teeth on the back of the balancer look perfect,
It was running fine after dyno then found oxygen sensor loose and a cracked spark plug all at the same time.

Would another bad plug cause the error to come up? ie missfire or no spk on a cylinder?

I will check all the connections and wiring and let you know how i get on

Thanks for the tips guys much appreciated ill keep you posted once ive checked it
 

chriso-k

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Bad spark plugs do not cause codes to log in the ECU. As for the error code, you refer to, I gather this is in reference to the Cam sensor code. So, let me get this straight, the car runs fine, then after about 10 seconds the cam sensor error code comes up, then it runs rough. It that about right? And, what is your definition on rough? like a cylinder dropping out? A faulty cam sensor, sending the wrong signal to the ecu, can certainly cause a jerking effect on the engine. However, Since you've replaced the cam sensor, this can be isolated. Running out of ideas here, make sure the pick up on the cam wheel is not sludged up with excess soot. Off memory, I can't quite remember how many pick up points the cam wheel has mounted on it. It could be one or three or six, I can't say. Although the latter, not likely. Look into this area further to ensure none of these mounted pick ups has dropped off the cam wheel. Finally, last approach, all wiring, voltages earths and signal wires between cam sensor and ecu to be serviceable, as mentioned. Apart from this, if you have a persistent cam sensor fault, logic would say a possible problem within the ECU, itself. Goodluck.
The car does start and run fine until the dtc error comes up on the computer software which is about 10 or so seconds,
every sensor is new cam/crank/ignition mod/coils/leads and the teeth on the back of the balancer look perfect,
It was running fine after dyno then found oxygen sensor loose and a cracked spark plug all at the same time.

Would another bad plug cause the error to come up? ie missfire or no spk on a cylinder?

I will check all the connections and wiring and let you know how i get on

Thanks for the tips guys much appreciated ill keep you posted once ive checked it
 
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malb

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Yip that is about right, it will rev up but rough, I think i need to check the wiring like you said or do you have another suggestion?

I will reset it and fire it up so i can give you an accurate discription of time and any thing else that seems strange.

I have kalmaker software and tuneable ecu from al gibbs (injection connection) with his tune in it i havn't changed anything yet, so i can look at the sensors and other stuff but new to it and not sure what to look for.

Car info is
Vx L67
boost upgrade 19psi shaved snout with A2A intercooler
H/ratio lifters
Cold air intake
Headers and exhuast

thanks for your help and reply's it good to someone to check with that knows about the car
 
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