VZ-06 Manual door lock not working/no battery connected! Car Locked Unable to Open.

[SSFUNKEL]

HELP! Anyone? What I've done is deadlock the car manually, then disconnected the battery to leave the car sitting. Closed the bonnet covered car for storage. I've gone to unlock the car recently after a month or so to start her up n keep everything working etc. and the rolling lock feature is not allowing the Original key to grab and open the door! (Some Asshole had shoved the wrong key/Screwdriver in trying to break in many years ago) But I've done this plenty of times before. Only now i've come across this problem. It gets to a point where i can feel it trying to grab and unlock then because the damaged/stuck pins the lock slips n spins! How the hell Am I supposed to get into the car? I had a VP stuck deadlocked many years ago and only way to eventually get in was to remove entire front bumper and pull on the bonnet cable to unlatch and connect a battery to get it unlocked! That was no fun, and it was a car i was scrapping so i had some wiggle room for damage etc. (Even then the drivers door remained deadlocked only all the others unlocked until complete disassembly of the drivers door handle. (Drivers door earth for deadlock was broken) No fancy ''Rolling Lock'' Anti-theft feature on that thing either. This is my Pride and Joy that I've looked after from 2008! I'd love to know a way i can get in with minimal destruction or even lock replacement. How can i get the lock to grab? Or am i doomed to replace to entire lock assembly. Which even then what do i do? Drill the lock out? I really don't want 2 keys. I've only got 108,000ks on her! REEEEEE! If it's a sensitive subject due to theft etc Just private mesg me instead. I am SPEWING! I have the original keys, so if i can pop bonnet and connect battery i can open it, if thats the case how do i pop the bonnet (Easiest way possible) Cheers in advance.

 

[rambunctious]

If it were mine I would probably get under the front with jumper leads and put my hand up and connect the positive jumper lead (red) to the positive battery lead (red) in the engine bay
I would then place a towel or similar around the clamps to protect them from shorting on metal bits
I would then connect the negative jumper lead (black) to the negative car lead (black) while making sure the leads outside of the car (jumper leads) were not touching each other
I would then get a good battery and connect the negative jumper lead (black) to the battery negative post (black)
I would then quickly TOUCH the positive jumper lead (red) to the battery positive (red ) post
If ???? there were no large sparkies I would then connect it to the battery (red) post
THEN I would try the key remote to open the doors
If this worked I would then open the doors and bonnet
If this worked THEN I would disconnect the jumper leads from the battery THEN the jumper leads from the car

edit.... Of course if you don't have jumper leads you could use some insulated wire for the positive side (red) and any old piece of steel/rod/wire/metal (Uninsulated) or coat hanger opened up to simply hold it between the negative battery post (black)and a metal part of the car (unpainted part of the car like engine block etc etc etc
Even if this only opens one door you can at least get in, open bonnet, and fit battery correctly to open other doors.

 

[Deltak]

Hi,

I see rambuctious has beaten me to it - All good stuff.

Don't know if this will help, and I haven't tried it out on a VZ. You can connect a battery lead (+ve) to the starter solenoid terminal and the -ve to the body. You now have battery power to the vehicle, and you will have remote access to the door lock.

Make sure you connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid terminal.

As for getting access to the ignition lock, there are a number of articles on how to replace the ignition lock in the how to section of this forum. Talk to Holden etc for your cars "lock number" and a Locksmith about replicating the correct key.

Deltak

 

[Fu Manchu]

Some solid advice so far. I suggest you take it.

New ignition barrel with a pin kit and new door lock with a pin kit.
Re-pin both yourself to the same combo you have now.

Or you can buy a new ignition barrel with a key and then buy a door lock with pin kit and re-pin the door lock to match the new ignition barrel and key.

To do either, you would disassemble the ignition lock to find the pin arrangement first.

I enjoyed doing mine. It was a nice job to do at the kitchen table with a beer and some time.

My thread on it:
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vn-vz-ignition-repair.280251/


The entertaining video I used:

To do the door lock, you follow the same procedure.

 

[SSFUNKEL]

Cheers for the quick replies fellas! But probably 1000'th attempt, some Rolla door spray n the mrs touch n bam a *crunch* sound occurred I lifted the handle n I'll be damned it fkn opened! Didn't even think the Starter power Solanoid trick would actually power the key lock! (Handy to know.) Don't mind that trick on the old cruiser. But i wasn't really keen on any other option to get it open, especially sparks! Lol. What i done was the lubricant spray > Placed wrong Holden key in to try n push some pins around. Back to Original key with no joy. Swapped to spare key with no more luck. I noted on full lock left to right the way it would try n grab. and persisted the process n called the mrs for a 2nd set of hands. She used me spare key around the opposite way and stood to the right of the lock whereas I was standing on the left (Where ya do when the door opens normally.) on around her dozenth try and *Crunch ''What was that?'' She asked. She thought she'd broken something, I lifted the handle and BAM it opened! So I'll be just hooking up the solar trickle charger and leaving the battery connected in future. To note: the Door lock remained down yet the door unlocked, popped bonnet connect battery > unlocked all doors, BUT... the drivers door still lock did not lift! So, I Used the key to flick the hook latch closed (simulating the door closing) lifted the lock and up it went. No seized or busted actuator. It's All gd. But yeah, the lock works no problem now, both manually and with Batt power! :/ . All I can contribute it to, is the previous crim damage and the fact I locked it when temps were much colder down south here. Now with the warmer weather the lock pins have expanded and got stuck. I'm sure others will come across this at some point. I was having flashbacks to popping the bonnet on the deadlocked VP and removing the bumper etc spending a cpl hours to get it popped. In this case Persistence paid off. I was turning keys swapping keys trying wrong keys lol, but what i didn't do was ask the car! Haha. She asked it nicely and no bullshit it bloody opened! Pmsl. Thanks for the advice though. Much appreciated. Also the previous lock damage appears to be gone. Maybe a stuck pin from the asshole all them years ago. It was ''Dry Glide'' and a ''PTFE'' Spray i used. Cheers! PS she cranked up 1st go as usual and sounded Beautiful as always! Still shocked it bloody opened. i was certain I was looking at a new lock + Ign Barrel. But it wasn't to be!

 

[vc commodore]

If I was you, seriously consider actually changing that lock, just in case.....

Yes, you have a good idea with the trickle charger etc, but having it occur once, you don't need it occurring a 2nd time, knowing about it already regardless of your precautions in place...

Glad you're in the car and got it running

 

[Fu Manchu]

The door lock and pin kit.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1615227...VTSobbORpi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ignition barrel and pin kit
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3520614...VTSobbORpi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[SSFUNKEL]

Cheers fellas. Yeah gonna, have to get round to it. I prefer to disconnect the battery while it sits but I also like the piece of mind of having it dead locked. I want to keep the Original Key and Ignition, But i sure don't want two keys, nor do i wanna get locked out again! Certainly, was not a fun experience. It's not often you actually notice the door lock condition, as it not used much when you have the remote. So, you don't immediately notice when some asshole has messed with it. Always worth using the key now and then (IMO) Especially if you leave it out anywhere. Not that I'd park mine on the street these days. I still can't believe it opened! Needless to say it is a great security option if having to leave ya car for any extended length of time. I couldn't get in even with the proper keys lol so i'd say someone else would have more difficulty. The wrong holden key wouldn't even allow it to turn. I like the idea to at least make crims have to climb in n out the window so either you or the coppers can clobber em on the head if they try and pinch it. Lol. Holdens got so much right then was taken away from us. Whenever I'm in a Ford or subaru and such the window switches the no auto sunroof close etc all drives me nuts. Holdens were built for Aussies! Gotta love the legend chasing off them little pricks in his jocks! Ps: looking underneath I would have been able to jack it up and with bit of pain n stretch slip the Pos+ back on the battery. The negative not a chance. Something to keep in mind if you want to disconnect just one terminal. Of course ya gotta make sure the plastic cover stays on the Pos+. or it could slip n you either return to a toasted commy or a bunch of fried fuses or simply a dead battery. The Positive tends to always want to try and slip back and contact the Battery. Thanks again.

 

[lout]

one of the members here fitted a towing wire plug with a battery positive
which you can then connect your jumper or trickle charger to