What’s the best sized stall for my cam?

[daves8]

Cam is 219/224 on 115 LSA with relatively low lift (565)

Would is the best sized converter for this, and does brand and type impact drivability? (Say 0-60 under light load, will it be high revs?)

 

[Immortality]

Get it tuned, work out where the torque curve is at and then talk to some converter shops, what you want to do with it. A converter for a daily driver will be different to a converter for a 1/4 mile warrior.

 

[MrBags]

Unsure of cam specs in my L77 with a baby 1900 Magnusson unfortunately but it has a 3200 Dominator in it and drives almost stock I would say.

 

[daves8]

Unsure of cam specs in my L77 with a baby 1900 Magnusson unfortunately but it has a 3200 Dominator in it and drives almost stock I would say.

As it it dosent flare under light throttle from stationary to say 60kms?

 

[daves8]

Get it tuned, work out where the torque curve is at and then talk to some converter shops, what you want to do with it. A converter for a daily driver will be different to a converter for a 1/4 mile warrior.

It’s tuned. It’s almost a completely flat torque curve from 3500-5500. It has a very small build up from 3000-3500 and the equal small drop from 5500-6000.

It will be a daily driver

 

[Immortality]

A converter that stall at about 3500 would be good and if it's built nice and tight it should drive good.

 

[someguy360]

I honestly can't see how a cam with such a high LSA and low duration would need much more of a stall than factory.

However I hate stock converters even on stock V8's, I'd go a 2500-2800 (If your not wanting to spend 3000+ stall money). You won't need something super agressive for that cam but if your planning more then anticipate what you need rather than what you have now.

3000-3500 is the sweet spot once you start going further.

Just remember, this is the most common myth on converters. A 3000RPM stall doesn't mean the car free revs to 3000RPM everytime you accelerate. Driving around town normally most converters these days will be very civilised and you probably wouldn't even notice.

 

[daves8]

A converter that stall at about 3500 would be good and if it's built nice and tight it should drive good.

Thanks mate.

Any suggestions on brands?

What makes a converter tight?

 

[daves8]

I honestly can't see how a cam with such a high LSA and low duration would need much more of a stall than factory.

However I hate stock converters even on stock V8's, I'd go a 2500-2800 (If your not wanting to spend 3000+ stall money). You won't need something super agressive for that cam but if your planning more then anticipate what you need rather than what you have now.

3000-3500 is the sweet spot once you start going further.

It doesn’t need it, there is no pushing on breaks. I designed the specs for that reason.

Just thinking if I could get it to flash to the sweet spot and still have it drive with factory stall type behaviors unless WOT it might make the car more fun

 

[someguy360]

Any suggestions on brands?

I use ATE Roadblaster because they are really good value for money.

Once you place an order with them they'll ask you what your cam specs etc are and build the converter accordingly. The converter needs to be built to your car, not an off the shelf type dealy.

Dominator are probably the best converters but they are significantly more money.