What parts will I need for Manaul conversion?

[mickah]

I have a VN Calais '90 auto and I'm interested in converting it to manaul. I know you need manual gearbox, clutch, clutch cable, clutch pedal and tailshaft(not sure) there all the parts I know of, if theres anymore please let me know. I'd probably just get a wrecked car with a 5-speed manaual and put it in myself, does anyone know any tutorials for converting from auto to manaul? Also what models could I get the gearbox from?, I'm guessing vn,vp, vr series1, and I wouldn't be able to use series2?
cheers mickah
PS anyone know any good places to on the net to look for wrecked cars?

 

[greenfoam]

I think the bolt holes on the block are different between the auto and manual on the early V6's but not sure exactly when that stoped, might be in 89 or 90 I'm not sure but I've read about that before, I reckon you can get an adapter. It must be that the first manuals didn't use a standard Turbo box pattern???? If anyone knows more about this speak up : )

 

[ViperVp]

do you need to change the chip aswell? i dont know for sure

 

[Garth]

ok, list of parts needed,

1 gearbox, manual
manual tail shaft
pedel assembly
pressure plate
fly wheel
clutch
lots of money
heaps of spare time
different memcal, (just need to get it reflashed so you dont get silly fault codes)
car ramps
jackstands
spanners, sockets, screwdrivers, thinks like that
beer
as for the different bolts on the back, that only applies from the series1 to the series2 change over, series1 gearbox wont fit a series2 due to the different crank's and the fact that the series1 has a rope rear oil seal and the series2 has a normal oil seal

cheers
garth
p.s. im sure i left something out

 

[fallen]

A Waste Of Money

spend your dosh on a manual or get a better car.. its not worth the messing about for the financial outlay..you may need to get it engineered also if you want to do it legally.. im not sure.

 

[bad benny]

Did this just a few weeks ago to my VP using a manual series I VN wreck as doner car. It seems theres another commodore forum (wont mention names) where people have done this heaps of times and theres tons of advice. We are behind the eight ball here for mod information. I am going to do a manual conversion guide soon and add it here. hope it helps.

Biggest problem you may face is chances are your VN is the earlier motor.

The earlier motor has the thermostat at the rear of the engine and a large metal coolong pipe running down the side of the engine to feed it water.

The later model engine has its thermostat at the front of the engine.

Most people say they changed engines with the change to VN series II. But watch out cause I have heard it was later and there are series II's with the older engine. Just check where the thermostat is. It will tell you.

The VN auto is a different bolt pattern again and matches nothing. In the old days you would have to change the crank shaft in the engine to get a manual bolt patter. But as I understand it "The Castlemain Rod Shop" has a flywheel made to suit auto VN motors. CHECK THIS 1ST !!!!!!!!!!!!!

The only difference between the 2 models is the crankshaft bolt pattern. And hence the bolts in the flywheel are different. See pictures Attached of flywheels. The VP flywheel pictured is from The Castlemain Rod Shop. It cost $275 with post but had no ring gear or locating lugs. Ring gear was less than $30 new from holden. Locating dowels were nearly $50 from holden. yes $50 for 3 little round dowels. Ring gear went on too easy after heating on gas hotplate for a fair while and freezing flywheel in freezer overnight.

As for what you need. I have included a picture with most of the stuff u need.

* Gearbox T5 from VN - VP model (not sure of others).
* Flywheel with crankshaft bolt patter matching your car. All pressure plates bolt up same to all models VN-VP.
* Spigot bush (Spigot bearing), This gos into the end of the crankshaft to take the front shaft from the gearbox. Cost under $10 from holden i think. Must be used although car will appear to drive without it.
* Crossmenber - Differnet for manual and Auto
* Tailshaft - Differnet for manual and Auto
* Pedal Box - Differnet for manual and Auto
* Bellhousing, clutch fork, Inspection plate.
* Clutch, Pressure plate and throwout bearing. I got mine new from repco for $330. The guy on the forum shop sells them for $330 or go to him (MR Spares) on ebay and he has em for $300.
* Gearbox Oil
* Metal plate that houses shift boot and Plastic Center console piece above this where gearbox comes through. These could be done without and fabricated, but if you have a manual wreck grab them as they make end install neat and easy. Metal plate is pop rivited in and will require drilling out.

Thats all I can think of.

My VP has an auto computer and auto wiring loom. The computer is running the car fine as far as i am concerened. If you bring the revs up with the gearbox (engine braking) and then pull foot straight back off clutch the revs will go really low and 2 times (only 2 times in lotsa drivinf over last few weeks) stalled. I personally feel that auto computer is fine with manual box.

Had the tie automatics inhibitor switch to ground. And had to run reverse wires down to box from where auto shift was.

I Do Not Get ANY CEL errors from automatic computer with manual.

Good luck.

Bad Benny

 

[bad benny]

spend your dosh on a manual or get a better car.. its not worth the messing about for the financial outlay..you may need to get it engineered also if you want to do it legally.. im not sure.

My manual wreck cost $700, I have since wrecked $400 of stuff off it. and have heaps to go.
My clutch, pressure plat and throwout bearing cost $330.
My flywheel cost $350 with all the parts it needed extra.

I sold my auto gearbox for $300.

So i am out $680 but got a new cluch and pressure plate so you cant really count this as theyd need replaceing sooner or later anyway.

My mate just got his auto serviced and a small problem fixed and it cost $800

So I know whos better off.
But you do need some skills, tools and a gregories manual.

Good Luck

Bad Benny

 

[mickah]

Thanks to all you posted your help (especially Bad Benny), I just showed my dad everything and he thinks we can do it. I think the best approach would be to do as bad Benny did and get a wrecked manual and use them parts I need and sell the rest, personally I think just under 700 bux is awesome for a manual conversion + new clutch. The only things he was worried about is not using a manual computer because he said it could be dangerous if it just stalled crossing a highway or something, also he wasn't happy to find out you have to change the pedal box because its hard to get to. The last thing was the insurance factor?, are you aloud to do a manual conversion by your insurance company?, will I have to get an engineer's cert (I heard there just 500 bux for the guy to look at it). Other than that it sounds very do-able, thanks all your help
Cheers mickah

 

[bad benny]

Pedal box isnt too difficult if you just pull the aircon vent thats in the way of 1 bolt hard away from the bolt. I would think some might take a heap of dash out to get this air cond duct out of the way, that would make it a big job.

But i didnt find getting the pedal box out of the wreck or into my car hideous.

Manual pedal box comes out with both pedals attached.
Auto pedal box comes out with its single pedal attached.
Just swap them over job.

Small outline of pedal box remove: Install is oposite procedure.

* Undo bolts hiding behid brake booster (these are hard to get too and probably the hardest part of job.
* Remove plastics and crap from under drivers side dash
* Disconnect steering colum at steering rack
* remove 3 bolts retaining steering colum, cut wiring ties, disco wiring, undo boot tie that holds rubber boot on. Pull colum up and remove from car
* Disconnect clutch cable at gearbox (not for auto)
* disconnect clutch cable at pedal (not for auto)
*remove rubber damper (not sure what it is) from where clutch cabel comes through the firewall. this pulls out by hand (i guess some are a bit tight)(not for auto)
*undo fuse holder screws and let it hang there
*remove screws that retain fuse holder support bar and remove bar from car (this may have to be done before steering colum, cant remember)
*remove 2 bolts from pedal box (inside) that hold brake booster to pedal box.
*remove the bolt hidden up behind the aircond duct. I found i could pull the duct enough to the side to get a socket with wobble bit and extension bar on.
* remove the pedal box from car

Install is opposite of removal
Adjust clutch pedal height as per distance in workshop manual (i cant be bothered finding mine and looking it up), it ends up been the same height as the other pedals.

Remember to check first wether you can get a flywheel. Must get a flywheel to suite AUTO CRANK VN (if thats your car). The Castlemain Rod Shop (might have spelt that wrong) has them for my VP for $250 plus post. Id say it would be the same. Post here let us know how you go.

Good luck

Bad Benny

 

[bad benny]

Oh about the computer.

Ring a dyno expert, tell them what u intend doing, they can probably just reflash your chip with a manual one. Also theyll give it a dyno tune and youll get some extra power.

Make sure there the proper dyno guy who remaps (not sure if this is correct term) computers, and not just some guy who will give you a chart say how much power u have.

Otherwise the computers swap easily. I have had both the computers in mine, Ive been swapping them over and playing a bit. I just swap the whole ecu (with memcal in it) over. Seems to run fine on either. No errors on either.

My VP memcal is whatever came with police pack (BT1). I dont think its standard. It seems to have a bit more boot that the manual computer from the VN. But its hard to tell without a dyno or test track.

If you get a manual wreck then it will have manual computer. As said these are too easy to swap over.

Good Luck

Bad Benny