What to do, what to do, what to do. Upgrade or warranty?

[426Cuda]

What many others have said. My 2014 CalaisV had bolt ons and tune at 5000k. At 12000k, a Harrop blower. Now at 28000k and nothing gone wrong at all. My dealer knows and doesn't care and the only warranty claim was replacing the bottom of the drivers seat due to a defect causing sagging. Having said that, it is driven with mechanical sympathy and never sees high RPM because you don't need to with a blower.

Just bought a new Golf R 7.5 with DSG and pick up in 3 weeks so that should be something different. I don't intend to mod it but if I do, at my age I am not going to wait 5 years. Might put the Calais up for sale. Shame to see it go but I only have one undercover parking spot at home. Time will tell.

That's a predicament.

 

[426Cuda]

O.P, just do it.
My Motorsport will be treated to GenF headers & 2.5" catback, OrSSom or VCM OTR, cold thetmostat and tune engine and trans once I've clocked 1,000k's or so.

 

[poppy bill]

Thanks for the opinions, you guys are right. life is short and hardly life changing should something go to ****. Cant wait 18 months so have decided on full 2 1/2 " Di Filippo exhahst with bi-modals, headers, otr and dyno. Got a pretty good price from DPM in melb.

 

[SSVRDL]

Thanks for the opinions, you guys are right. life is short and hardly life changing should something go to ****. Cant wait 18 months so have decided on full 2 1/2 " Di Filippo exhahst with bi-modals, headers, otr and dyno. Got a pretty good price from DPM in melb.

You won't regret it bud, mine is only 12 months old and just got stage 2 fitted from Tekno, OTR, Cam, Harrop exhaust, Tune! As you said life is short, enjoy the ride

 

[monstar]

O.P, just do it.
My Motorsport will be treated to GenF headers & 2.5" catback, OrSSom or VCM OTR, cold thetmostat and tune engine and trans once I've clocked 1,000k's or so.

Why cold thermostat?

 

[426Cuda]

Why cold thermostat?

Well Monstar, I have no empiricle evidenced perse. But. My tuner recommended it and it stood to reason. The engine runs a few degrees cooler. My tuner reckons with the cooler thermo, they make a bit more power at operating temp. It's logical to me.

 

[monstar]

Well Monstar, I have no empiricle evidenced perse. But. My tuner recommended it and it stood to reason. The engine runs a few degrees cooler. My tuner reckons with the cooler thermo, they make a bit more power at operating temp. It's logical to me.

My Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sits at 87° never gets above 96° ECT while in operation (sometimes after sitting). That’s because of the fuel and good combustion impacting indicated thermal efficiency. Acording to GM 85-87° ECT is about as low as you want to go for engine damage (wear), fuel mileage and power.
ECT is the fundamental factor for engine tune, oil spec, fuel type, service interval / duty, HVAC, transmission, and ultimately vehicle speed.
In general running at 72° vs 87° means the ECU flags the engine as not ready, compensates and so affects the tune. There is no good reason to run your engine colder with tighter clearances than engineered tolerance, unless the engine is re-engineered. Also Unless your engine does currently and consistently operate at stable 87° with factory tstat then lowering the ECT min with cold tstat *may* result in colder stable operation but likely you are just going to broaden the heat cycle range. This in itself has nothing to do with increasing thermal efficiency.
I have a 160° tstat in a drawer because I noticed G8 drag racers on gasoline do that. The benefit is to extend the effective range of the cooling system and start their run at a low ECT with the aim of precision windage at the expense of increased friction, reduced engine protection, and momentarily slightly lower IAT.
Results are inconclusive and introduces more variance than predictability.

 

[426Cuda]

Makes sense.
My car reaches operating temp reasonably quick, even in winter. In summer, with ambient air temps reaching +45° anything that helps the motor run a bit cooler is a good thing. As you know too much heat kills power. Cooler AIT makes more. Hence CAI 's actually work. It's not about the power they add, but about the power they retain, I.e power that would otherwise be lost due to the motor gulping hot air.
A cooler engine (within GM's recommended range) will make more power than a hotter one. If warmed up properly, it will last longer too.

 

[monstar]

But a lower tstat wont make your car run cooler in summer except maybe on the highway or at startup BTW, both when you least need it. ECU sees ECT as out of proper operating range is all, the environmental conditions do not make the engine more powerful, no.
Is sort of like the argument for chilling IAT more than ambient in a car that isn’t knock retarded in the first place - total snake oil wank. Car goes better with IAT closer to ambient, not closer to zero.
10°-60° IAT is good, should have no knock and run same. The importance of a CAI is to maintain good density within that range, not to chill it down to the point it may actually bring intake valve temp (IVT) out of ideal range (120°-140°). In North America and Europe (and snow countries) the intake is heated specifically to be in that range, not cooled.
By the time air hits the intake valve the effect of cooler air at the throttle by one to ten degrees has next to zero gross effect on performance but will muck your fuel dynamics around during transitions.
Lower tstat and chilled air do not make power at all, rather feeble misguided attempt keep IVT within range without knock. By far the more productive method of thermal control is fuel type and injection tuning, correct plugs and ignition timing.
In our car all you are doing is voiding warranty and adding risk if your car is not near knock limit anyway?!

 

[426Cuda]

But a lower tstat wont make your car run cooler in summer except maybe on the highway or at startup BTW, both when you least need it. ECU sees ECT as out of proper operating range is all, the environmental conditions do not make the engine more powerful, no.
Is sort of like the argument for chilling IAT more than ambient in a car that isn’t knock retarded in the first place - total snake oil wank. Car goes better with IAT closer to ambient, not closer to zero.
10°-60° IAT is good, should have no knock and run same. The importance of a CAI is to maintain good density within that range, not to chill it down to the point it may actually bring intake valve temp (IVT) out of ideal range (120°-140°). In North America and Europe (and snow countries) the intake is heated specifically to be in that range, not cooled.
By the time air hits the intake valve the effect of cooler air at the throttle by one to ten degrees has next to zero gross effect on performance but will muck your fuel dynamics around during transitions.
Lower tstat and chilled air do not make power at all, rather feeble misguided attempt keep IVT within range without knock. By far the more productive method of thermal control is fuel type and injection tuning, correct plugs and ignition timing.
In our car all you are doing is voiding warranty and adding risk if your car is not near knock limit anyway?!

Gotcha. Thanks heaps guru!