Wm no crank no fuel pump

[Commos4lyfe]

Hey guys

Ive got a 2007 wm ly7 v6 that won't crank, and I can't hear the fuel pump turning on either.

No engine lights and no relivent codes picked up by my elm code reader. The key buttons unlock and lock the car fine, all electronics, light etc appear to be working fine. Battery is new and is fully charged.

The fuse box has power and every fuse in the car in all 3 location appear fine.

-> The fuel pump and starter relay trigger pins seem to have no power <-

Yes all earth's appear fine, I've checked numerous times.

Anyone had this issue before? What triggers the fuel pump.and starter relays? The ecu or the bcm?

The only solution I can think of is to start throwing money at it in the form of playing a guessing game, starting with a cloned bcm, then try a cloned ecu...

Cheers.

 

[Fu Manchu]

ECM controls that.

Is there fuel pressure? Once the line is pressurised it won’t run the pump. No need. A fuel pressure gauge is cheaper than ECM.

A high end scan tool like a Tech2, or say, a Snap-on scan tool, will be able to see which systems are active.

 

[Commos4lyfe]

ECM controls that.

Is there fuel pressure? Once the line is pressurised it won’t run the pump. No need. A fuel pressure gauge is cheaper than ECM.

A high end scan tool like a Tech2, or say, a Snap-on scan tool, will be able to see which systems are active.

No mate, zero fuel pressure. Both the fuel pump relay and starter relays are not being triggered, the trigger pins are dead, no power.

 

[Fu Manchu]

There can be problems with the keys. I know @kruising has had to relink keys to the BCM before.

No fuel. No crank. I’d imagine no spark but if not cranking, then can’t tell. It seems to be more security orientated.

A problem that can resolved with a high end bidirectional scan tool.

 

[krusing]

As above ^^^^

Has the ECU relay got power?,
and ECU have power ?


How many keys do you have for it ?
if 2, try the second key, if its starts, 1st key needs to re-enrolled in to the BCM

Does the dash say "Immobilized" or similar ?
If so, the BCM is possibly lost the ID of that key,,
If both don't work, see if you can get hold of a high end scan tool, and see if the BCM can see the keys inserted, eg: Key 1 or Key 2
That way you will know if its a BCM fault,
If its see's Key 1 or Key 2, that part of the BCM is working correctly,

At this point, may need to back probe the cables from the fuel pump relay to the ECU.

 

[Commos4lyfe]

As above ^^^^

Has the ECU relay got power?,
and ECU have power ?


How many keys do you have for it ?
if 2, try the second key, if its starts, 1st key needs to re-enrolled in to the BCM

Does the dash say "Immobilized" or similar ?
If so, the BCM is possibly lost the ID of that key,,
If both don't work, see if you can get hold of a high end scan tool, and see if the BCM can see the keys inserted, eg: Key 1 or Key 2
That way you will know if its a BCM fault,
If its see's Key 1 or Key 2, that part of the BCM is working correctly,

At this point, may need to back probe the cables from the fuel pump relay to the ECU.

Which relay is for ecu?
All the fuses in the fuse box have power
Also what are fuse slots FU6 and FU11 for?

Only got 1 key, which appears to be functioning normally, locks/unlocks doors and no immobilizer symbol on dash so that appears fine according to my minimal knowledge

I think I'm abit in over my head with these newer commodore and may simply need to pay a pro to have a play around for a few hours and see what happens

 

[Commos4lyfe]

Bit of an update

Had roadside assistance around who hooked up their snap on scan tool and didn't bring up any codes.

They suggested pull the harness off and reattach everything then see what happens. If no luck, send it to an auto elec for further testing

 

[Fu Manchu]

You can try something that costs you nothing but 30mins or of your time.

A capacitor discharge. Drain the power from capacitors in various modules.

Disconnect the negative terminal.

Then operate as many things as you can. Toot the horn, start the car, open the doors, operate the window switches, headlights on, wipers on, use the brake, etc. of course nothing happens because the battery is disconnected. Leave it for 30mins or so. Then put everything right so a party doesn’t start when you reconnect the negative terminal.

It’s a crude method for doing it. It’s worked for me many times in the past though. I’ve seen diagnostic technicians do it too.

You’ve got nothing to loose doing it at this point. All going well, the car sorts its **** out and an issue is resolved. Or you are exactly where you are now but it costs nothing to do.

 

[Commos4lyfe]

You can try something that costs you nothing but 30mins or of your time.

A capacitor discharge. Drain the power from capacitors in various modules.

Disconnect the negative terminal.

Then operate as many things as you can. Toot the horn, start the car, open the doors, operate the window switches, headlights on, wipers on, use the brake, etc. of course nothing happens because the battery is disconnected. Leave it for 30mins or so. Then put everything right so a party doesn’t start when you reconnect the negative terminal.

It’s a crude method for doing it. It’s worked for me many times in the past though. I’ve seen diagnostic technicians do it too.

You’ve got nothing to loose doing it at this point. All going well, the car sorts its **** out and an issue is resolved. Or you are exactly where you are now but it costs nothing to do.

I'll give that a shot mate. Cheers

 

[BlackVXGTS]

The attached file from the Holden VE Service manual should help you further understand the problem you are facing.