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There used to be a thread somewhere on the forums about converting VY radio buttons to work in a VX - it had circuit diagrams for both VX & VY button sets, and pictures. I've been searching all afternoon but I can't locate it.... can anyone point me to it? EDIT: finally found the thread but...

I do know it was RACQ because of the chain of events I went through to buy the car - a lot of details which I didn't include here, to keep the post short. And I absolutely agree it was my responsibility, that wasn't the point of my post. I don't quite know why you seem so aggravated on that...

Not a problem at all, and I appreciate the feedback. I just thought I may have come over as being a bit narky in my original post. It's good to know that there are plenty of satisfied customers out there, it also helps to restore my faith in the model. I guess the message for private buyers...

I take on board all the positive comments posted about the model. I know I sound a bit over the top, I guess my disappointment comes from having high hopes that the model would meet all my expectations - and for some people, obviously it does meet theirs. All things being equal, most of the...

I bought my VX wagon from a bloke in Qld back in 2006, fitted with ROH Snyper mags - even including the spare in the boot. I had it checked by the RACQ who were the last to touch it. I drove it back to Sydney and ran around in it for a week or so, then one night coming home down the M4 the car...

I'd be interested in other's opinions of VE Sportwagons, particularly if anyone has had similar experiences. I know the following sounds like a whingefest, but as a staunch Commodore fan, I never expected I could be so disappointed in a Commodore. I have a VE Omega sportwagon - Auto 6...

it all depends...... if things are running well, it's "good car"... if I'm working on it and things aren't going smoothly, it gets called a lot of different names - none that I can repeat here though....:whistling

Yeh, sorry... I was stuck on the connection to the amp.... HDMI is the go between the DVD & the TV. Optical is for the audio to the amp. Scart won't be there if it has HDMI so don't worry about it, it is generally only found on older TV sets and some DVD's /set top boxes now. The one that...

Optical connection to amp is recommended, as for monster cables, you are paying a lot for performance you're probably not going to notice. When it comes to speaker cables, get the thickest cable you can afford that has the most conductors - for the same gauge of wire, lots of thin wires are...

Have to confess, I didn't feel smart, just incredibly relieved..... it was one of those things that you come across by chance that you're really glad you found, 'cause you know you weren't smart enough to think of it first-off by yourself... :whistling (I am also happy that no-one has said...

Got it now, thanks...... from that, it seems the delay on the gauge is a bit extreme.... oh well, at least I know it's behaving "normally"... for a Commodore... :whistling

Thanks all, reassuring to know.... what I still don't get though is why the gauge tells me it's empty, but the diagnostic readout says the right amount (30litres)?? - If the gauge is following the sender, how is the 30 litres being measured?

It is sad that more couldn't have been done.... but given the enormous amount of money (& resources) that would have taken for such a long term commitment, since Colin won't be getting it, it makes me wonder why that money couldn't be spent on people who are in need? Just because they're not as...

If it were me, I would be buying the (Bosch?) ones from Repco, or somewhere reputable - given the amount they cost & the job they do, unless you know where the Ebay ones come from, I would be prepared to spend a little more to get a "known good" item. I certainly don't want to chance having to...

I had my 92 VP serviced by Lube Mobile once (and only once!) before setting off on a long trip... engine light kept coming on, turns out that a few of the sensor connectors weren't plugged back in properly.... it would be worth checking all your O2, oil pressure, knock sensors, etc. to make...

For some time I couldn't work out why my VX would have random flat spots when accelerating - always when warm, never when cold..... (engine has done 200,000Km's). After changing coils, leads, IAC motor, cleaning the plenum, etc, etc. I ended up having the car diagnosed professionally & the O2...

Have searched this but can't find info I need; Does anyone know how the Litres in tank is read - is it the sensor, or is it calculated from usage?? If it's the sensor, then I have a doozy of a problem... The car (VX 1, executive manual V6 wagon) has been running normally in respect of the...

I 2nd the above. I just replaced the passenger door (electric) regulator last night - I would suggest you buy 1 or 2 spare rivets - I didn't get the regulator close enough to the frame with one of them & had to drill it out & re-rivet it. Mind you, I had left my run a bit late & was doing this...

Oh well, seems as if this isn't too common a problem then, I will just have to try a few things.

Excellent information, this should be made into a sticky or put in the How To section.

I have a 2000 VX wagon and the lock on the tailgate doesn't operate smoothly; when opening the tailgate, the button sometimes won't depress, unless I put upward pressure on it, then it's OK. I've had the tailgate apart and re-aligned the lock a little; this improved it but didn't fix it. From...

Unless you've already decided.... I'm running a VX wagon, I get about 500Km between fills (filled when computer says 50Km left) and it usually takes 55-60 litres. I'm not doing a lot of long runs, and I like to use the available power (extractors & exhaust fitted) so that all affects my...

ACEMonkey is right, and what's more the crud is usually caused by sparking between the contact surfaces - window winders draw a bit of current, and when you break the contact (i.e. let go of the switch) the current tries to keep flowing and actually arcs a little bit while the switch is opening...

We have video recording at our work for security reasons. We are required to post signage that anyone coming onto the premises will be video recorded (obviously not in areas that breach privacy, such as change rooms & toilets), then by coming on site they are accepting that they will be...

I know of a very reliable mechanic in Smithfield, but didn't want to post details without the person's consent, so I've sent an email with the info. He's not a commodore specialist, but we've taken all our vehicles to him for many years & he's very good to deal with. Cheers, Brian

I have a barrier I fitted to my VX, it is a genuine unit (bought from a wrecker in as new condition) with the same fittings as yours, i.e. the straps. It came with the perspex window and I'm pretty sure it's specced for the VT-VZ range as it replaces an earlier version which didn't have the...

Well, there you go..... I have a wagon that the battery went dead flat in, I was able to just use the key to open the back tailgate, climb over the seats & pop the hood..... now I know better....

What you're seeing is high voltage tracking from the leads to another point outside the leds, which means that they are breaking down which is not good. I have heard that a very faint trace around the leads may not indicate a problem (I am guessing that the HV in the leads may ionize the air...

Sure can - I fitted one in my wagon 2 weeks ago, but you need to get a pin for the LHS of the door as well (I made one up) You can get the compartment complete from a wrecker for around $10-15

The tab is on the removable section, and it "clips" into place in the hole in the section of the compartment that stays put - you need to push the tab back away from the compartment, in the direction of the driver's side of the car, the trick is keeping pressure on the tab while pulling gently...

At first, I pulled the dash apart to get to it too - then I found that all you need to do is:- 1) pull the little pin to the left of the door, then (this wasn't clear from the instructions) 2) along the right hand wall of the compartment there is a small cutout with a locating tab that holds...

Give the iAudio 6 or 7 a look; they're made by Cowon.

Question answered, I contacted R.O.H. and they told me they were called "Sniper" & went out of production some time ago.

....isn't redwine what Elmer Fudd sees at 6,600 rpm??:whistling

It's not A/C related, is it? That stuff will leave a whitish deposit if the seals fail & it gets on the paint, or if there is some that gets out when connecting/disconnecting hoses during regassing

I think GSL Rallysport who are one of the sponsors here stock the Exidy clutches....? I recently bought some engine mounts through them, they are very good to deal with.

Vicroads certificate of registered interest - $9.50. If the car has come from interstate, good luck tracing its history.....

I have a set of R.O.H. 15" alloys on my car, been there since 2000 when the original owner fitted them, but I have no idea what model they are - I have emailed R.O.H. with the question but not received a reply. I was hoping someone here might know what model they were?

Hmmm, thanks for the info - I get the beep & the usual warning lights flashing, as described in the "readme"'s.... but I can't even get those gauges working - nothing on my EFI Dashboard responds, only a few of the the raw data & graphs, & I don't think there is one for engine timing... may be...

Have bought the kit from Michaelw, and have been able to get it to work; however, it seems to cut out after a few minutes and the live dashboard doesn't seem to work, even when logging shows that it is recording live data (for a short time!) Any ideas what I should try, or is this normal...