Kraken
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2023
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- Age
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- Location
- NSW
- Members Ride
- 2010 Holden Commodore VE SV6 3.6L Auto
Hey guys ive got a 2010 commodore ve sv6 *310000km. Drove it home from work one night 30 mins, later than night it rained for a bit. Went for a maccas run while it was raining, about 100meters down the road *30seconds-1minute of driving car flashes check engine and idling becomes so rough I thought box was gonna explode.
Whole car shaking jerky acceleration. Rpm usually sits around 1000rpm, needle was fluctuating below 1k, around 600-650, up and down. Sounds like car was going to stall but it doesnt, just runs like an islander on the shitter after tacos.
If i give the car gas it runs normal how it should, when I take foot off and let it idle, rough. Around 40-50KM and above it runs normal, or about 2500+RPM.
I purchased an OBD2 scanner codes were P300, 01, 03, 05. Cylinder 1,3,5 Misfire. Erased a few times and it seems that No.5 is the first one to go, and i suspect because of that 1 and 3 follow.
Sometimes the Stability control turns off and an unable to turn it back on, It happens after 3minutes of idleing. Maybe, Maybe not kinda thing.
Havent drove it since I noticed, just been idling for 3mins max, erasing codes, swapping parts side to side. Dont wanna fk anything up worse.
First time ever working on a car, what ive done so car is swap spark plugs and ignition coils from 1,3,5, to 2,4,6. no change.
- All the spark plugs are black & dry, normal enough for an old car, EXCEPT for cyl number 5 which was wet and fuely/oily when i took it out. But again I swapped over plugs no change.
- Swapped igntion coils 1,3,5 to 2,4,6 switch some around in some spots. Cylinder 5 Spark plug and cylinder 5 coil were not on the same cylinder. To test if it was either one. I was unplugging 1 by 1 while the car runs, It appears that Bank 1 doesnt change the idling still runs rough, its very hard to tell if it doesnt anything cause of how poor it runs - Leads me to believe that maybe a cable has gone bad cause it appears the cables are coupled together into a common line. Bank 2 is a slight noticable change, and it did stall after unplugging no.4.
2x VVT/VCT swapped from bank 1 (driver side I think), to bank 2 passenger, no change.
Ground on driver side seems fine, screwed down tight, bit brown but shouldnt be an issue.
Cleaned throttle body with wipe, nice and shiny seems fine?
Checked Fuel injector fuses, not blown.
Next on the list is to check O2 Sensors swap them from side to side, I dont understand how it would be that cause if O2 is bad it should run lean? - But plug 5 was wet.
Fuel injector, possible number 5 is gone, will swap banks 1 over to 2. Again ive never worked on car but should be simple enough.
Maybe a air leak somewhere. I dont have a smoke tester, but ill buy a pack of cigarets and puff into however its tested and see if it leaks.
Possibly going to buy a compression tester, sometimes after running car and turning off a few times it sounds like no compression, rarely happens but also might link to bad timing chain.
OBD Readings
DTC_CNT - 7
LOAD_PCT - 32.9%
ECT - 60Degree
SPARKADV - 25Degree
MAF - 11.75g/s
TP - 27%
02S11 - 0.7V
02S12 - 0.450V
02S21 - 0.045V - Odd?
02S22 - 0.450v
FRP - 5400kPA
FLI - 54.9%
Baro - 100kPa
CATEMP11 - 627Degree
CATEMP21 - 630Degree
VPWR - 15.1V
LOAD_ABS - 24%
LAMBDA - 1.55%
TP_R - 12.5%
AAT - 20Degree
TP_B - 27.5%
APP_D - 27.5%
APP_E - 27.1%
TAC_PCT - 19.5%
- No idea what these mean but hopefully one of you smart fellas can shed some light on possible issues.
------
Errors Misfire 1,3,5. P0300, 01, 03, 05.
Anyway im going to work on it for a bit until Im out of ideas and cant figure it out. Worst case scenario id need a new timing chain. All my information is from google, hundreds of forums and pages, dumb it down for me cause I dont fully understand mech head lingo.
Would be greatly appreciated if I could get some assistance. Thanks for taking the time to read, ill keep the forum updated.
Whole car shaking jerky acceleration. Rpm usually sits around 1000rpm, needle was fluctuating below 1k, around 600-650, up and down. Sounds like car was going to stall but it doesnt, just runs like an islander on the shitter after tacos.
If i give the car gas it runs normal how it should, when I take foot off and let it idle, rough. Around 40-50KM and above it runs normal, or about 2500+RPM.
I purchased an OBD2 scanner codes were P300, 01, 03, 05. Cylinder 1,3,5 Misfire. Erased a few times and it seems that No.5 is the first one to go, and i suspect because of that 1 and 3 follow.
Sometimes the Stability control turns off and an unable to turn it back on, It happens after 3minutes of idleing. Maybe, Maybe not kinda thing.
Havent drove it since I noticed, just been idling for 3mins max, erasing codes, swapping parts side to side. Dont wanna fk anything up worse.
First time ever working on a car, what ive done so car is swap spark plugs and ignition coils from 1,3,5, to 2,4,6. no change.
- All the spark plugs are black & dry, normal enough for an old car, EXCEPT for cyl number 5 which was wet and fuely/oily when i took it out. But again I swapped over plugs no change.
- Swapped igntion coils 1,3,5 to 2,4,6 switch some around in some spots. Cylinder 5 Spark plug and cylinder 5 coil were not on the same cylinder. To test if it was either one. I was unplugging 1 by 1 while the car runs, It appears that Bank 1 doesnt change the idling still runs rough, its very hard to tell if it doesnt anything cause of how poor it runs - Leads me to believe that maybe a cable has gone bad cause it appears the cables are coupled together into a common line. Bank 2 is a slight noticable change, and it did stall after unplugging no.4.
2x VVT/VCT swapped from bank 1 (driver side I think), to bank 2 passenger, no change.
Ground on driver side seems fine, screwed down tight, bit brown but shouldnt be an issue.
Cleaned throttle body with wipe, nice and shiny seems fine?
Checked Fuel injector fuses, not blown.
Next on the list is to check O2 Sensors swap them from side to side, I dont understand how it would be that cause if O2 is bad it should run lean? - But plug 5 was wet.
Fuel injector, possible number 5 is gone, will swap banks 1 over to 2. Again ive never worked on car but should be simple enough.
Maybe a air leak somewhere. I dont have a smoke tester, but ill buy a pack of cigarets and puff into however its tested and see if it leaks.
Possibly going to buy a compression tester, sometimes after running car and turning off a few times it sounds like no compression, rarely happens but also might link to bad timing chain.
OBD Readings
DTC_CNT - 7
LOAD_PCT - 32.9%
ECT - 60Degree
SPARKADV - 25Degree
MAF - 11.75g/s
TP - 27%
02S11 - 0.7V
02S12 - 0.450V
02S21 - 0.045V - Odd?
02S22 - 0.450v
FRP - 5400kPA
FLI - 54.9%
Baro - 100kPa
CATEMP11 - 627Degree
CATEMP21 - 630Degree
VPWR - 15.1V
LOAD_ABS - 24%
LAMBDA - 1.55%
TP_R - 12.5%
AAT - 20Degree
TP_B - 27.5%
APP_D - 27.5%
APP_E - 27.1%
TAC_PCT - 19.5%
- No idea what these mean but hopefully one of you smart fellas can shed some light on possible issues.
------
Errors Misfire 1,3,5. P0300, 01, 03, 05.
Anyway im going to work on it for a bit until Im out of ideas and cant figure it out. Worst case scenario id need a new timing chain. All my information is from google, hundreds of forums and pages, dumb it down for me cause I dont fully understand mech head lingo.
Would be greatly appreciated if I could get some assistance. Thanks for taking the time to read, ill keep the forum updated.
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