big hp slow ets

[Jesterarts]

Suspension is tarded.

In related and slight awkward news, 440hp is 328rwkw. Who wrote the figures in the black marker? They are both slightly wrong.

What's the rubber package?

If it's what is in your thread. Then that will be the rest of your problem.

 

[AirStrike]

60 foot times are hopeless. I have ran a 1.8 with 2.73 diff gears and a stock stall, no way you should be running the same or worse with 3.9's and a convertor. Are you actually stalling it up on the convertor or simply smashing the loud pedal when the light turns green?

 

[VZSSCHASE]

yeah that was me with the black marker I kinda rounded up, anyways what do you mean by the rubber package?? usually just smashing it the floor using street slicks?
how does my suspension affect it, what do you recommend ?thanks

 

[AirStrike]

Don't worry about the light turning green, timer starts when the tyre breaks the staging beam, not when the light turns green.
Idea behind using a higher rpm stall convertor is to get the cars rpm up to the power band of the car.
Foot on the brake, hand brake up tight and stall it up to your convertor flash speed. Drop the hand brake and foot off the brake and go for gold.

 

[hakhawk]

Don't worry about the light turning green, timer starts when the tyre breaks the staging beam, not when the light turns green.
Idea behind using a higher rpm stall convertor is to get the cars rpm up to the power band of the car.
Foot on the brake, hand brake up tight and stall it up to your convertor flash speed. Drop the hand brake and foot off the brake and go for gold.

and hope you dont twist a driveshaft

 

[Pub247]

Usually you'll want to be stalling it up so that your leaving off your stall convertor at its peak power/torque range. Not sure with your combination but it should be around 3500rpm maybe 4000rpm anything below this is time wasted.

So when you bump into the second lights or after bring the rpm up to this range or whereever your stall goes and and let off the brake. I've found stock or soft springs are ideal for drag racing as you want weight transfer to happen rear end to squat and apply downwards force onto rear axle to achieve maximum traction. Decent rubber as in a drag radial will provide maximum traction almost any other tyre you get some wheelspin some street slicks arent bad though

 

[AirStrike]

and hope you dont twist a driveshaft

Nah it's a VZ, put my money on a CV first.

 

[VZSSCHASE]

after breaking the diff centre I have upgraded to a tru trac centre with same 3.9gears and changing the stall to 4000rpm rather than the previous 3500 non lockup, have also strengthened both axles as there was play so all this should be done for the next meet I will also run with hoosiers 26/8/15s see how I go then, but still have the king springs may have to change them as I like to keep it a streetable car.

 

[Immortality]

It's got a good flat torque curve and the power isn't peaky either so it should go better than it does. Most likely the converter needs looking at. What converter does it have? Is it an off the shelf unit or custom made?

Rubber package.... I think he means your suspension bushes?

IF you can get the engine up to stall speed on a foot brake with a high stall it doesn't say much about the converter.

 

[Jesterarts]

Rubber package meant wheel and tyres.

No point in all that torque and power if it's being put to the road through 225 20's.

As mentioned before, suspension wise you want the back to squat. More weight to the back means more grip. There's no corners on a drag strip so soft back is good.