How to Change the Oil in a VT/VX

[VT-565]

l apologise to reopen this thread.

I have a VU S Pack ute and l couldn't find the sump plug first off until l saw that the VU has a sump breast plate to protect it's vital organs. I'm still trying to get the damn plug off but thought l'd give a heads up to any noobs who have encountered the issue.

dont be sorry for opening the thread, that's what it is here for
I hope you are using a decent socket and extension for the sump plug...you need to get good square pressure on it, as it is easy to round off. If it is that badly damaged, I have heard of some people here using pipe wrenches and what not but that is an extreme last resort.
If it still salvageable, tap a socket on there and go that way, if it really is buggered, you may have to try stillsons or something of that nature.
Please dont use open end spanners if it is even slightly rounded off, as they probably won't work....
Let us know how you go

 

[antiferret]

My 2 cents worth.

My first job out of high school was working in an oil testing laboratory for caterpillar testing used oils from big diesels through to 4 stroke motorbikes.
these are some things i picked up

an engine is a chemically (and physically) harsh environment. engine oil consists of the base oil and additives,

the base oil has a mix of hydrocarbon chains (like pump petrol has a mix of hydrocarbons, like octane, pentane etc). Synthetic oil is artificially made so
almost all of the carbon chains are an identical lenth. the reason why they do this is the performance of the oil is more consistant over different temperatures and needs less buffering (this is why they usually have lower viscosity for a given situation).

the additives contain emulsifiers (dissolves soot, water etc), coating agents
(to improve oil "adhesion" to moving parts) and other additives to stop the oil from foaming at high revs etc.

with oils you definately get what you pay for...
i'll say it again
with oils, you definately get what you pay for.

cheap oils have fewer additives for dissolving muck etc.

the method described previously about changing oil with a cheaper grade for 15 minutes or so is a good idea, but i would do 2-3 days of normal (not hard)
driving to really dissolve engine deposits (this should be a 1 off).

oil does age. the longer carbon chains break up and oxidise with temperature
and use, reducing your ability to coat things.

so

unless you drive hard all the time, frequent changings with a cheaper oil will
be just as effective as fewer changes with an expensive one.

synthetics are the same, but are "slipperier" and protect better when oil gets hotter (through racing etc).

 

[bradcad]

Ecotec maniac- I did read your post.

Oil does wear. You are absolutly correct- good filtration, such as a Franz filter, will extend oil life dramatically. However, there does come a point where oil analasys shows wear in both the base stock and additive packages which reduces the effectiveness of the oil to meet certain criteria.


I think antiferrett is pretty well on a really good track though. Only one thing I tend to not agree with so much- about synthetics. I know a mineral oil used in racing applications where the motors just dont get rebuilt, and show a fair advantage over Mobil 1 synthetic in engine and final drive for temp and wear particle analasys. However, I would be interested in seeing a side by side comparison of this one vs whatever is considered the best. ie Royal Purple? That would be some fun......I need a life!

So I'm not sure that synthetics are the be all and end all, but you put that very, very well.

 

[vxcalais_01]

Simple question, once jacking up the car, wheres the best place to position the stands ? Obviously you cant place them where the jacking point is as there is not room ?(Jacks in the way).

 

[Bilbs]

VXcalais, easies way for you would be to jusck from the front of the car under the crssmemeber (not the motor) and put the stands under the jacking points.

As for everything else, couple of things ill add to the details of an oil change / service
Check all fluids under the hood, brake fluid level and condition, P/S fluid, top up your wahser bottle, check coolant level and condition, check hoses anf fuel lines for leaks, on ECOTECS check the vacuum line from the bottom of the trottle body hasnt come unplugged (common problem) When jacking the car to undo the sump plug - NEVER GET UNDER A CAR THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK - ALLWAYS suuport the car with no compresable stands. Drain the oil while the engine is Hot, not cold like some people say to. When refitting the oil filter, you only tighten it 2/3rds of a turn once the gasket makes contact with the housing face, this doesnt seem very tight, i know, but thats how tight it should be, and it shouldnt leak like this, if you do it too tight, then you will need a screwdriver to get it off next time. No need to pour a bit of oil into the motor before you put the plug back in, just put the plug in and save yourself some $$ you know that the oil will drain, you just drained about 4 and half liters out didnt you :whistling. When you fill the eng, it has been said that an ecotec takes 4.8 - 5.0 L So as a good starting point, put in 4.5, then start the car, watch and make sure the oil press light goes out, then turn off the eng, and wait about a minute, then recheck the oil, and top up to full mark, do not overfill, this will create extra friction between the oil and crank counter weights, which will hamper power, performance, and fuel economy.

Best way for sump plug, is to use the ring end of a 3/4 ring/open end spanner, with the angle of the spanner pointing towards the sump, and then thump it with the palm of your hand while holding it on the plug with your other hand, this is how i always do it at work, but then again, i get to stand on my feet at full height while im under the car, which helps too i guess lol

 

[Snerty]

Changing oil? Cheap VT

Oil? Never changed it in my beast....Lets do the sums....4 oil changes a year say done at home Cost? including filter...$150.
Hmmmm I just bought a VT with 140000 ks on it....Boot and bonnet damage..$900.00 from Manheimfowels on-line auction...
Cheaper to change the car I reckon.

Only Joking..

Seriously though I did get a 2000 mod acclaim with front and rear panel damage for $900 plus the goverment slice of the pie.

It took 1 secondhand bonnet and 4 hours labour to fix...Bent the boot lid back out by hand. Then to my suprise..Whilst doing the VSR check I was informed that it still had six months rego and I could drive it. Passed RWC without spending a cent. Looked better than my other 2 VT'S...(Dunno why I got so many...It just happened...And I love them).

Total cost of car $1650 including the fuel for the 600 k round trip to pick it up. (1 1/2 tanks). My 1998 Acclaim really sux juice when towing a Tandem.

For the first time in my life, I had a really nice car and I wasn't being shafted by some Motor Finance Wizz Kid and his side kick Repo man.

What could possibly go wrong????

(If there is a god...he has a sick sense of humor, Cause "IT'S JUST NOT FUNNY")

The day I did the rego transfer..............

My son got his licence. (Mid MAY) He phoned me and said "Dad, you will be thrilled to know that I got my licence can I borrow your car please. (All in the one breath)

"Yes...I replied, without hesitation. (In one breath also)

I havent seen him nor the car since.

Well I have seen him, He visited so I could fix a punture, Well after all, it is my car so therefore it was my puncture. Huh? How do ya figure that one? Even then..When he left my house...He forgot to say, "Dad! Here's ya keys,thanks for the loan "Your the best. ..Oh, He forgot to leave the car too.

Moral to story

Next time you "P" plater child wants to borrow your car, dont forget to ask which year they intend to return it. Also part of driver training should cover "Removing your rubbish from dads car"

I will post some pics if I ever get it back. (Bet when I do, the tank is dead empty)

 

[Slippy_Trippy]

It would be better to let the oil drain completely before lowering the car. If you lower the car at this stage, you could easily FORGET to put the sump plug back in by getting distracted or such.

I jack my car up front & back, support it on chassis/axle stands, remove the plug (putting it somewhere readily seen, like on a rag next to car) then go & have a cuppa. Go back out & replace the plug first thing, then continue with the job.

So close to forgetting the sump plug

This was after I collected it from the bottom of the drain pan covered in hot used oil.

Next stop, garden supply store for some sand to clean my garage floor :bang: Oh well, interesting experience and saved myself some cash. I'm happy.

 

[danja]

Next stop, garden supply store for some sand to clean my garage floor :bang: Oh well, interesting experience and saved myself some cash. I'm happy.

You'll find practice makes perfect, and soon you'll be able to change the oil without spilling a drop or even dropping the plug in the drain pan

Still worth laying some newspaper on the ground before you start though

 

[terry0400-40]

Ive just bought a VS series 2

You'd only need a jack if a; You are a very large person or b; There is a body kit on it.

I was getting a little worried after reading some of these posts last night and seeing as i have just bought my first Commodore a VS series 2 v6 auto.
I as up at 4.30am no raising her but crawling under the beast with a 19 ml ringy and yea the sump plug was so free i probably could have used 2 fingers to undo it, well just about.

Also the oil filter was really loose and just touched a couple a fingers on and it spun off,
no wonder there was an oil residue around the filter area.

Well i just tightened it all back up and will go and get some magnetic 10/40 this week and give it a go.

I also did decide to whack a few litres of deisel into her and let her idle for 15 before draining and proceeding with the new oil...... hope she appreciates it all.... :thumbsup:

 

[cdb19531955]

Changing engine oil in a vy ss gen 3 v8?

Please could someone describe exactly where the sump plug and oil filter are located in a VY SS Gen 3 V8 Commodore?

Any special tools required?

Thanks.