[VY] How to change transmission filter and fluid.

[wazza675]

Thanks for the write-up - it made it very easy and straight forwards.

A few notes from my experience...

Dunno when the fluid was last changed. I bought the car at 220k from my father-in-law who is a mechanic. It's now got 385k and I've never done it before, nor have I asked that it be done!!

I jacked the car up from near where you put the jack to change a tyre on the driver's front. I then put an axle stand under the cross-member near the sump as 'security' in case the new jack failed.
I undid about 6 or 8 nuts on the rear passenger side (lowest) expecting the fluid to come out pretty readily but it took a screw-driver to lightly pry the pan a little before it began to weep. I then worked towards the highest point allowing the fluid to flow out. I sloshed the fluid till the pan was probably half empty after which I dropped it onto a crate so I didn't drop it (given the awkward position I was lying in). Given the torque settings suggested above, I think mine were less as they were hardly done up at all. The engine cases on the bikes I've worked on are 8-10Nm and they still take a bit to crack but these bolts were almost finger tight.
I ended up with about 4L of fluid in the drop pan with some still in the trans pan that I dropped straight into the oil drum without measuring (idiot). I cleaned the pan up with turps, rags and a scraper. then I took out the filter... REMEMBER IT STILL HAS FLUID IN IT THAT HASN'T DRAINED OUT... that ended up on the tarp and carpet under the car!!
I replaced the filter without changing the O-ring as suggested by most. When I took the gasket out from the box, it didn't want to sit flat initially which made it impossible to seat it correctly to re-fit. In the end, I used 4 small cable ties in the centre of each side VERY LOOSELY to hold it in place, which allowed me to put in the rest of the bolts, cut out the ties and then put the last 4 bolts in. I'd suggest that the gasket be laid out flat for 24hrs before you do the job or use the cable ties. It helped a lot given the confined access and awkward body position. Working around the pan I slowly built up the amount of torque on each bolt till they were at 11Nm.
After re-filling the trans, I was left with about 400mL of fluid from a 5L container of Bursons brand Dex3.

Remember to wear safety glasses... I know it sounds like common sense but I've got drips through my hair and crud in my eyes, even with them on.

In the end, I think it took about 3hrs including a thrash around the block to check my handi-work but I was being cautious.

Thanks again for the advice above. Next is the same job on the VE.

 

[Greasy Hands]

Sorry for thread digging, but is there a drain plug on the torque converter on these cars ?

I'm changing my ATF and filter today.

Failing that, I may employ the euro car method of running the engine with the transmission line input to the radiator redirected to a bucket and flush the system completely. Unless of course this method will destroy the transmission pump on these ?

 

[Immortality]

No, No drain plug on the torque converter. The only way to get the fluid out of the converter is removing the cooling line and pumping it into the bucket. The fluid that is coming out of the coolant line is coming directly from the converter so this method does work. Personally, I don't like letting it run until it splutters, I don't like running the transmission dry.

 

[Wogboy1994]

awesome guide man. i did this last week and it only took me 5 caronas. its easier with 2 people if you dont have car stands though.

i feel the shifts are so much smoother now!

thanks

 

[Greasy Hands]

Well, I've done it. Its not really any different to any other car I've done it to. Possibly a bit easier.
My new filter kit came from the dealer, something about "Made in Taiwan" didn't sit well with me when i saw the aftermarket ones at the auto part stores. The price wasn't actually that much more and the gasket in my opinion is far superior.

The manufacturing date of the kit i installed was 25th week of 2010.
The manufacturing date of the kit removed was 21st week of 2006.

Me thinks it has been a while since the transmissions been serviced, the oil wasn't bad though. There was metallic sludge material peaking at about 2-3mm thick waves on the magnet in the pan - that was it.

Transmission didnt have any issues before the service, it was more for preventative maintenance.

 

[Black_Bug]

sorry to bring up an old thread but used this on the weekend to do mine. I underestimated how much of a pain the seal is to get out but i found the easiest was was to get a thin flat screwdriver and crush the side just the tiniest bit by screwing it (not levering it) then using a 2 stroke exhaust spring remover from my mx bike (basically a t-bar with a hook at the end) to hook it at the top and pull it out. Used the butt of a clean screwdriver (matched the size and contour of the seal edges) and a rubber mallet to get the new seal up there. Would certainly replace it again as i could see how they could go brittle after a while in there.

 

[PeterQ]

Just doing this on my CX8, found that there's a couple of bolts just behind the rear of the pan which hold on an exhaust bracket. With them in place the pan would not drop out. As for the lack of a drain plug that seems to be normal for most auto trans. My previous car, an Audi A6 V8, had the opposite problem though - has a drain plug but you fill it from underneath using an oil pump bottle with a snorkel outlet. Tedious to fill but not half so messy to drain.

 

[Sabbath']

My previous car, an Audi A6 V8, had the opposite problem though - has a drain plug but you fill it from underneath using an oil pump bottle with a snorkel outlet. Tedious to fill but not half so messy to drain.

You can get an attachment which screws into to the fill/overflow hole on some Audi/VW transmissions which allows you to then run a hose up to the top of the engine bay and gravity feed it in.

 

[rino]

Ok what you will need for this relatively simple job is:

1. A set of car ramps.
2. A socket set including an extension bar and a 13 mm socket. Torque wrench is good too.
3. 5 litres of Dexron III, check that this is still the specified fluid for much older models.
4. A transmission service kit, I get mine from Repco. $30- $50, depends if on sale. Check if you have a deep pan or shallow pan by looking on your dipstick. My VY has a deep pan.
5. A heap of rags, including some clean, lint free ones.
6. A large container to catch the old fluid.
7. A CLEAN work area such as a concrete driveway, don't even think about doing this on grass or gravel!
8. Small funnel.
8. One can degreaser.
View attachment 116351

Now drive your car forwards up onto the set of ramps and put selector in park and apply handbrake firmly. I like to do this job while the vehicle is cold, as there are a lot of things to burn yourself on under there!
Now slide underneath and look for thisView attachment 116352

Get your ratchet and ext bar with 13 mm socket and begin loosening the bolts around the outside of the pan, not too much, but you want to take the rear ones all the way out and some of the side ones so that the back of the pan can be lowered down to start draining the fluid into your container. View attachment 116353
Why didn't Holden put a drain plug in?:hmmm:
Support the pan with your free hand to avoid the weight of pan and fluid bending the front of the pan that still has some of the bolts left in. By the way, as soon as you start to loosen any of the bolts, fluid will start dripping from all around the pan, so watch your eyes!
When you have a fair bit of fluid out, support the pan with one hand and remove the remaining bolts, then carefully lower the pan to the ground.
Looks pretty intricate up in there doesn't it? View attachment 116354
It is, there are lots of wires and solonoids and stuff that you don't want to damage so try not to touch the components that are now exposed. You'll see the filter, it will either be metal or black plastic. Grab hold of this and gently twist as you pull down until it comes off, discard it.

Take the pan and tip the remaining fluid somewhere like into a container, then remove the magnet. Clean the magnet with a rag until all the black crap is off, this black crap is tiny metal particles.View attachment 116355
Next wipe out the pan with a cleanish rag until all the old fluid is gone, I then take the garden hose to it and wash it thoroughly with water, making sure to completely dry it with a clean rag and leave it in the sun.
Remove the old gasket from the transmission and make sure none of it is left on there, if it is then very carefully scrape it off with a butter knife or the like. (Same goes for the pan)
Now, where you removed the filter from, there is an 'o' ring, pain in ass to get out, I have always just left the same one in there, as long as the new filter is firm as you push it in then there's no need to fit the new 'o' ring, you'll see what I'm talking about in the service kit you bought. Ok, so you have put the new filter in? Good. Now it's time to wipe around the underside of the tranny where the gasket sits with a very clean rag. Repeat this process until there is no fluid on it, I believe cork gaskets seal better if applied to a dry surface, but I may be wrong.
Next place your clean magnet in the pan, you'll notice a little square box-type mark indicating exactly where the magnet sits. Make sure no dust or crap has got into the pan while it was sitting in the sun by wiping it out again with a CLEAN rag.View attachment 116359
Grab your new gasket and place it on the pan, lining the gasket holes up with the bolt holes on the pan. It can only go on one way, as the holes won't line up if it's wrong.
Slide under the car with the pan and re-wipe the underside of tranny again, then lift the pan up into place, again it can only go on one way as bolt holes won't line up if wrong.
Next get a bolt and screw it into a corner hole, followed by three more bolts in the other corners, then add the rest of the bolts, doing them up firmly with your fingers. Now if you have a torque wrench, set it to 11Nm, (thanks Brett_jjj for these specs) and go around the bolts over and over until they are all torqued up. If you don't have a torque wrench, then do them up firmly, but watch the gasket doesn't start squeezing out of the sides! Make sure to go over and over the bolts, so that they are all nice and firm. Remember it is a cork gasket, so not too tight!!!!
Now get some degreaser and spray the pan, and surrounding area, leave a few minutes, then hose off.
Go and have a shower! Unless you don't care about getting in your car covered in tranny fluid.
From under the bonnet, insert a small funnel into the filler tube and add four litres of fluid. (Check what your owner's book states the capacity is) Mine is 4.8 litres.
Now start the car and reverse off the ramps onto flat ground, gradually add more fluid until the level is at the lower end of the cross hatches. Start the car and run it through the gears, let settle then recheck. Go for a drive, around 15-20 mins should do until the vehicle is well up to operating temp then, park on flat ground with motor idling and selector in Park, add fluid until it is at the full line.
Recheck the level over the next few days and park somewhere that you can see any leaks to make sure the pan gasket is sealed.
If you have overfilled it, then don't panic, just get a squirty bottle and some fish tank air hose or similar, stick it down the filler tube and pump out the excess fluid. Like this one.View attachment 116360

Love the squirty bottle thing just bought a VZ and the tranny is over full will definitely be doing that I said nice one brov

 

[MY18VF2SV6TTAN1C]

Hi all.
Doing this on my VZ next week and just wondered if anyone knows the Ryco code for the correct filter for an Exec V6? I can find RTK2, RTK3, & RTK4.
Cheers