Planning An LS1 Build

[elliottecarter]

As you stated, building a good NA engine is totally different to a boost build

To get any real power NA you will need alot of engine work, raise the compression, stroke, big grumpy cam, some good heads, big stall to suit the cam, and fuel solution

Or, if your engine is healthy, just bolt on chosen boost solution, drop in some good valve springs, and get your fuel solution sorted

Both have pros and cons

With both at the same power level, let's say 500hp, the NA will be a pig on the street, but with a good sized turbo a blown car will be responsive and not a issue on the street in traffic

My advice is to go to the drags and watch both the NA cars and boosted cars, that are running typical numbers, cruising around the staging lanes

Or better yet, go for a drive in a worked NA car, then go for a drive in one with boost, with a well matched turbo.....not one with a massive laggy turbo that needs to stage at 4k rpm to build boost

The only real advantage of a NA build is the legalities IRT visual modifications

If you don't have it engineered it can become problematic IRT registration and insurance

“Go to the drags…” That’s a great suggestion.

Do you think a decent option might be to do what I’m considering: Build a decent NA (as outlined in my opening Post in this Thread) as a ‘stage one’, with the view of future proofing it (within reason) to accomodate a turbo?

I like the idea of this, but not sure how practical it is. Hence, the question. I’m hoping that with 2 stages in mind, the NA build will take into account the later addition of a turbo.

Thoughts?

 

[elliottecarter]

Point is you really need to know what path & budget you want to take then stick with it.

You do n/a head/cam/stally/gears all becomes useless if end up wanting a turbo but by then majority are too stubborn to admit they spent all that coin yet dont like how it turned out other than sound.

It is heavy-ass statesman so already got weight against it...

Try n/a just valve springs/otr/tune & short diff gears....way easier to later turbo or stay n/a just add stally & cam.

Each person has a different preference better yet see if you go for a ride or speak to owners who have already built what you want & see if they'd do it again.

Yes, absolutely. This little exercise (in the Forum) is to seek out input from those like you with the experience I don’t yet have, for the purpose of “knowing what path & budget.”

I certainly have no intention of throwing dollars at a NA build, only later to find it’s unsuitable (in part or whole) to add a turbo. I laid out the potential of a two-stage build in my reply to @Ginger Beer.

 

[Ginger Beer]

“Go to the drags…” That’s a great suggestion.

Do you think a decent option might be to do what I’m considering: Build a decent NA (as outlined in my opening Post in this Thread) as a ‘stage one’, with the view of future proofing it (within reason) to accomodate a turbo?

I like the idea of this, but not sure how practical it is. Hence, the question. I’m hoping that with 2 stages in mind, the NA build will take into account the later addition of a turbo.

Thoughts?

Can you can get some free headers for your NA build?, because if you do go turbo later the headers will go in the bin to be replaced by a exhaust manifold and plumbing to suit the turbo

If you are thinking about turbo, I would look at typical supporting mods that both a NA and boosted car will need

Easy: Transmission build (you need a final power goal, ( the stronger the better), trans cooler, engine oil cooler, tail shaft (maybe just new 'good" couplers and a new "good" centre bearing, I like Hardy Spicer)

Then, spend the next few months researching

NA: Ported heads, well sized cam and converter to suit, the usual stuff, your tuner and engine builder will tell you want you need for power and drivabliy, possible stroker

Mild boost (say 7 psi): if your engine is healthy your stock bottom end and heads should be fine, bolt it on with the usual supporting mods, speak to your tuner

More boost (say over 7 to all of the psi for 600 to "all" of the thousands of Hp): Build it to what your tuner and engine builder says for power and drivabilty, bring your wallet, possibly sell your wife and kids

It all comes down to what sort of budget you are working with

$20k, $50k, over $100k

Take the next few months looking at your budget and power goals

You can still have a nice reliable streetable build with a limited budget if you plan and only choose the parts you really need

Don't rush in to any mods without using ya brain, your wallet will thank you

 

[Ginger Beer]

Side note: if you want to keep boost legal, find a shop that can help you engage a engineer

 

[gtrboyy]

Try the bolt on mods route source 2nd hand parts like otr/extractors/exhaust/gears then get it tuned...you'll probably like it but quickly get use to it..

Sell parts back on fb marketplace to recoup some money back if you get hooked & want to go crazy lol

 

[elliottecarter]

Can you can get some free headers for your NA build?, because if you do go turbo later the headers will go in the bin to be replaced by a exhaust manifold and plumbing to suit the turbo

If you are thinking about turbo, I would look at typical supporting mods that both a NA and boosted car will need

Easy: Transmission build (you need a final power goal, ( the stronger the better), trans cooler, engine oil cooler, tail shaft (maybe just new 'good" couplers and a new "good" centre bearing, I like Hardy Spicer)

Then, spend the next few months researching

NA: Ported heads, well sized cam and converter to suit, the usual stuff, your tuner and engine builder will tell you want you need for power and drivabliy, possible stroker

Mild boost (say 7 psi): if your engine is healthy your stock bottom end and heads should be fine, bolt it on with the usual supporting mods, speak to your tuner

More boost (say over 7 to all of the psi for 600 to "all" of the thousands of Hp): Build it to what your tuner and engine builder says for power and drivabilty, bring your wallet, possibly sell your wife and kids

It all comes down to what sort of budget you are working with

$20k, $50k, over $100k

Take the next few months looking at your budget and power goals

You can still have a nice reliable streetable build with a limited budget if you plan and only choose the parts you really need

Don't rush in to any mods without using ya brain, your wallet will thank you

Sounds pretty much the plan so far (ported heads; cam; etc.) And yes, absolutely no rushing in.

 

[elliottecarter]

Side note: if you want to keep boost legal, find a shop that can help you engage a engineer

Good to know.

 

[elliottecarter]

Try the bolt on mods route source 2nd hand parts like otr/extractors/exhaust/gears then get it tuned...you'll probably like it but quickly get use to it..

Sell parts back on fb marketplace to recoup some money back if you get hooked & want to go crazy lol

That’s funny. Mind you, I’ve been gradually obtaining parts, some of which are fitted (LS6 manifold; OTR); some not (3”dual exhaust; long extractors; high volume fuel pump; etc.)

 

[gtrboyy]

Don't go twin 3" unless got decent sized stally & short diff gears or manual.

I've had 2 daily driver vy m6 cars....otr/tune/4-1's also tri-y's extractors/100 cell cats with twin 3' x-force....last one got lost it's rego before 3.9's went in.

Honestly think they all should be like that as a starting point...


If going all those mods n/a then later decide want boost may as well start over with import iron block 5.3 or 6.0 to build up...that way can keep driving car leave it on the road as long as possible.

 

[Ginger Beer]

As stated above

Exhausts are tricky

A big exhaust needs thought, and big resonators and mufflers

In saying that, when my LS1 was NA I had a custom single 3.5" with Pacemaker 1 5/8 Tri Y, to a 2.5" Y pipe with 200 cell cats, but, it had a "big bodied and long" 3.5" resonator and a "big bodied and long" 3.5" rear box

Boosted I'm running 1 7/8 4:1 to a 3" Y pipe with 400 cell cats to a 4" single with the biggest and longest 4" resonator that would fit and 4" rear box

The rear box is a 4" Varex, which is handy for quite starts, and when heading into my street late at night

The Varex muffler is also great as I can close it fully if the constabulary are near

Closed it is as quiet as stock, maybe quieter

But, when closed the Varex is a pretty big restriction, but fine for cruising around at low RPM

But, with the Varex fully open, at idle, or cruising, or at WOT, the exhaust sounds epic

You really need to put thought into an exhaust or you may end up with a obnoxiously loud/droning exhaust