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poor dyno result

Cheap6

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im gonna give it a run without the mixer and see how it runs in the meantime

Yes. Without actually doing runs with and without the mixer back to back, how do you know how much the mixer is reducing airflow.

The PCM should be cleared or, better, the car should be driven on the road, for the PCM to relearn all the block learns on petrol though. Running on LPG with a petrol PROM in the PCM, the PCM will be trying to correct for any mixture error present on LPG.

Ideally you would drive to the dyno on petrol (and perhaps the day before) then switch to gas for the comparison run.

Find a way to run two ecu's with two memcals. One for gas and one for pertol. That way you will have the proper factory tuning for pertol, and gas tuning for gas. This is a bit of a hard option, however possible. Another option would be running injected gas, you still lose power though but less.

One MemCal/PROM, in one PCM, with two maps is possible.

Actually, just looked at the specs. page for john's car. On factory gas, so already two maps. (Nice looking car).

Dynos vary anyway. Better to look at before and after mods than be fixed on a number.
 
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johnvtls1

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no, no quite. i mean that it would go well and feel fast like you said, because it would have a nice torque increase from the cam. but, it wont make good figures on a dyno, because thats all about top end power and the mixer hinders the flow of air for good top end result. you get what i mean?

yep i get you. do u think the mixer would effect on road performance much?? surly the 15 kws quoted by my tuner would be noticable
 

johnvtls1

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Yes. Without actually doing runs with and without the mixer back to back, how do you know how much the mixer is reducing airflow.

i dont know exact numbers on how much its reducing air flow but my tuner said its a whole heap. im actully just doing gtech runs and stuff. i did one run last night and i got 7.23 0-60 but i think i could do a lot better then that. thats all im going on atm. i do have to go to the tuners soon though cos im having some issues with my shift points so ill ask him to do power fun for me.
 

johnvtls1

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7.23 for 0-100 is good for not forced
is that petrol or gas

that was on petrol before my diff and tune best i ever got with gas was 7.97 or somthing like thatbut usually ran over 8. but petrol was much better. ive really gotta practise my launches and stuff but i hardly every do g tech runs
 
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dunno how much lower ya really gunna get n/a
hard getting under 7 i think
i got 6.5 forced i thought that was fast hehee
 

MyStreetCar

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Hi John,

I have just been reading bits and pieces of your concern with power output. I haven't had much Just Commodores time lately, so I do not know the full storey.

I do agree that that your 123rwkw is certainly on the low end of the power table. (I assume that the dyno was a Dyno Dynamics or Mainline unit). It should be noted that all Dyno's will give slightly different readings due to a range of variables however, thats another matter).

I also agree that the LPG could be holding down the power @ Wide Open Throttle. Many mixers for standard fit ups are probably marginal, most will struggle with gas flow at WOT demand. Also, if you have a power robbing gas ring in the induction pipe, there is another restriction to be accounted for. Did the engine surge on the dyno at WOT, or was a lean condition noted??? Just throwing in some observations etc.

Is is possible to give a run on Petrol for back to back comparisons, this will certainly tell the storey??A few years ago I carried out back to back comparisons on a VR V6 Commodore. At WOT there was a small power drop when run on LPG however, it was barely noticable on road.

Also, I have learn't from my experience with the Ecotec V6 that a check on the valve timing (cam degreeing) is abosolutely critical upon camshaft installation. I have noted that most camshafts which are fitted @ zero degrees (Factory dots aligned) will not make power. I gained this info from Crow Cams who stress that cam timing must be right with the Holden V6.
Was the camshaft you installed degreed as per the cam card????????

John, I built an Ecotec V6 last year and achieved good results with basic modes. 133 approx rwkw. As part of this build I posted the results on a personal web site: My Street Car (Which is soon to be decommisioned). Before it goes, perhaps you may like to check out the Stage One engine build. Perhaps there may be some further info that will help you with your build up.

Good luck
 

johnvtls1

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my car was actully tuned for the petrol setup so im assumiing the dyno run was on petrol. i do infact have a gas ring on the induction but have just taken that out today. i drove the car around and it did feel a little better but could just be my imagination lol who knows. im actully no sure on the cam timing mate. i may look into this also is there anyway i can check that myself??. i actully did look into ur build up a while back. pretty impressed with wat u have done with the old ecotec mate. cheers for the advice
 

johnvtls1

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dunno how much lower ya really gunna get n/a
hard getting under 7 i think
i got 6.5 forced i thought that was fast hehee

im hoping for under 7 to be honest. there some pretty quick cars on this site that are going pretty damn quick with less work. kinda disheartning but the cars only going to get better i hope. ill give it a run without the mixer tonight and see if its any better
 

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The tiny gas mixer ring would be hurting you big time.

Also, what sort of exhaust setup are you running? Theres some n/a horses to be had out of a modded Ecotec thru a good exhaust combo!

Cant remember if i have asked before.. but would you have any objections to divulging your cam specs? As im on the market for a cam. Ive been advised to get the largest off the shelf item that i can get, i think thats a stage III crow??
 
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