soft/low brake pedal

[pete30nz]

This is what markovr said. I've underlined what l think is relative. You probably have already done it?

vt/x booster and master cylinder modified to fit to a vb through to a vs for sale...210 + post for everything .It will bolt up with no extra parts needed on a s2 vp / vr /vs but you will need line adapters for the previous models since the flares on the brake pipes are different.
Heres a picture of the setup on my vp http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=20661&d=1150621024
and on my vr http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=1062&d=1104659672
The vr has had this setup (with vt front discs and calipers as well)for 2 years with no problems

Hi Lex,

I see what you mean. I had asked if I needed adaptors, but I'm pretty sure it was said it would bolt straight up with no modifications. My fittings and brake lines arn't wet, and tightened up snug,

Cheers
Pete

 

[pete30nz]

This is what the guys are talking about. The earlier models use a double flare brake line fitting, the later models use the bubble flare.

You either need an adaptor or cut and re-flare the brake lines.

Hi VC and Immortallity,

My line flares are single flares/ bubble flares.


Pete

 

[pete30nz]

Lex, pete is getting confused, he is talking about the seal leak at the back of plastic reservoir container Not the 2 lines.
He got new lines made up due to breaking old ones. In the video the 2 lines are not leaking.

Yes correct, my lines arnt leaking. It's the resivoir rear seal that's leaking.
What's the best way to re-seal the seating position?

Cheers

 

[vc commodore]

Your original rubber lines would have been 26 years old, expanded internally, replacing with new factory rubber lines would do the same thing as using steel and a no brainer, cost effective and just as safe.

Bear in mind you would’ve bled your brakes when installing braided lines, so that’s where your brakes actually worked properly to their potential, from the bleed and any possible new pad change rather than saying just steel lines as ....new rubber lines would have felt the same as steel when new.

After all you just have a simple production vehicle with adequate brakes, not a race car with huge big brakes dealing with large brake forces/heat and high speeds on a regular basis where even new rubber wouldn’t cut the mustard let alone save your life.

There is no way your brakes pulled up/worked better (without even talking about abs or water moisture in brake fluid) just because of saying of using steel lines instead of new rubber ones. It’s an ASSumption on feel when you press the pedal like a booster rather than mechanical workings.

Flexible steel Braided lines are used to prevent air bubbles forming with expansion/heat. Old rubber lines soften expand and contract under pressure/heat coupled with the old brake fluid breaking down and create tiny air bubbles and in turn relate to a soft pedal hence why people think using braided lines gives you better brakes. It’s just a feeling on your sole of foot... not that your brakes got better than they can be even if you replace every component brand new.

If you bought a new factory car and then you replace the rubber lines with steel the same day you got it from the dealer, the brakes are not going to magically work better after.
Do a simple brake pedal movement measurement or any brake skid test and the true answer is obvious.

Firstly, you're not changing the steel brake lines...You're changing the flexible rubber lines for braided lines, not steel....Secondly, .have you changed from new rubber flexible brake lines to new braided brake lines to make a judgement call on how the brake pedal feels....After all, you are claiming it is all in someones head, so real world comparisons are required, not assumptions

Me personally, I have..I will admit, the rubber flexible brake hoses were 6 months old, the fluid the same age, along with the brake pads and rotors, so it' not brand spanking new, but I still did the swap from rubber to braided and had a difference with pedal feel for the better...

 

[vc commodore]

Yes correct, my lines arnt leaking. It's the resivoir rear seal that's leaking.
What's the best way to re-seal the seating position?

Cheers

Remove the reserviour and check the rubber o ring/s for any signs of breaks or twisting...When re-seating, make sure it is square, before pressing down evenly on the front and rear of the reserviour to push it back into place...

 

[Lex]

Lex, pete is getting confused, he is talking about the seal leak at the back of plastic reservoir container Not the 2 lines.
He got new lines made up due to breaking old ones. In the video the 2 lines are not leaking.

Ok thanks.

 

[shane_3800]

So without reading 14 pages is there a tldr?

 

[pete30nz]

So without reading 14 pages is there a tldr?

Hi Shane, tldr?

 

[Lex]

Yes correct, my lines arnt leaking. It's the resivoir rear seal that's leaking.
What's the best way to re-seal the seating position?

Cheers

Ok Pete. thanks.

 

[shane_3800]

Hi Shane, tldr?

Nvm