Sound 'deadener'

[pugga]

Theres one twin 12" box and two single 12" boxes, then i've used MDF "faceplates" covered in marine carpet from bunnings to much the colour up, The amps are all sitting on a MDF setup i've made and all wires run around in front the the twin boxes and under the unders.

 

[holdenboy]

Yep great job there....dont tell me this was your first attempt at a full boot install?

 

[pugga]

basically yes, i had two subs in there before sitting on a false floor with one amp sitting in that and another sitting on the side all cover in carpet. The setup of the amps wasn't like the to start with and i've changed that but i i do everything myself. There isn't that much to it. Subs boxes i can't built hence why i used just **** off the self.

 

[holdenboy]

Youre right, there isnt much to it....so long as you take your time and plan everything properly. I reckon you could build a sub enclosure though

 

[holdenhero]

I think sound deadner is definately worth it as long as your serious about your car audio, and have a sound system that is actually going to benefit from having it. Also the biggest thing about sound deadner is miss installation, I've seen friends take their cars to so called 'professionals' and for the car to come back with marginal-no improvement and when we pulled the doors apart the job they did was basic to say the best. If your going to install some sound deadner, do it properly, its not a job you can cut corners on.

PS. Dynamat all the way.

 

[TMM]

i've done all my doors (both inner and outer skin) and the reduction in road noise alone is amazing.

It has also cut down my door speakers from "droning" on certain low frequencies (i don't have a sub yet).

I've put dynamat on one of my door trim/cards as a test but i think i'm going to take it off in winter (hot day = sticky mess) because it makes the door too heavy.

There are cheaper and better performing products then dynamat, but i wouldn't recommend them. Dynamat stays put, some cheaper ones have a tendency to lift, and make a sticky mess i.e. stick to the window inside the door etc

edit: my dynamat cost $180 for 32sqft shipped from the US back when the AU dollar was strong.

 

[StoneX]

edit: my dynamat cost $180 for 32sqft shipped from the US back when the AU dollar was strong.

It's still not $360 for 108sq ft for a product basically the same as Dynamat without the name printed on it.

If buying IN Australia, Dynamat is basically the best you can get. If you're buying from overseas, there is better products and better value products than Dynamat.

 

[Ray-915]

I found the sound deadner matting made a big difference in an old VS i had but like people on here have already posted that the later model commodores have alot better deading from factory these days so the difference may not be that noticable in a new VZ for example. I could be wrong thoe. Either way i have spent a decent amount of money on a good SQ stereo so ive invested in some deadner matting (which i havnt installed as of yet) to make the most of it as i was very impressed with the improvement with what the Dynamatt made in the VS

 

[VQXTC]

I personally use to work with dynamat and I done an installation of a set of splits for a SQ Comp in a VS Commodore Dynamat was used everywhere as the customer could not afford to lose points due to distortion......Without sound deadening we found the door skin would resonate with the midrange and cause acoustic distortion so with a wall of sound deadener in the way of the reflecting wave we managed to stop this distortion from occurring.....
Hope i am making sense to people (feels like i am rambling.....) Lol

cheers

 

[StoneX]

That's exactly what deadener is for... To reduce the resonant frequencies of metal panels.

You can also use closed cell foam or specifically made foam panels that go behind the woofer to absorb/reflect the rear wave from the speaker.