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VT stalling while driving

bones308

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mine starts first time, every time on cold starts, drove well in cold weather but hot days after 20-30mins would stall (mid driving) start again after 3-5 mins this is why we all thougth

crank angle sensor, (see my blog of listed changed parts) fuel pump and filter was the last parts changed and seems to have fixed the fault.

NOTE, every breakdown no faults recorded!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

shoey

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My 2003 vy stalls while driving and last time I restarted I noticed it stayed on if I kept the revs up and as soon as I took my foot off the pedal it died I waited 30 seconds and away she went as normal?
 

waxes

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Stalling only when it gets over 29 degrees

I have a VT series 1 with a v6 and in the last six months or so has driven me crazy with stalling. I had the computer scanned and it come up with error code for the cas, so replaced it and that did not fix it. Car always starts fine cold, as soon as it gets to 29 degrees air temp it will just shut down, no matter if the car is on the freeway at 100kph or at traffic lights.

The car has been rescanned and no errors are logged, mechanic suggested coils and dfi, replaced them no difference, oxy sensors has been replaced, all injectors were cleaned still no change. As a last resort we scanned in another known working computer and that also did not fix it.

Today I noticed an oil leak around the oil sender unit, pulled the plug out and it was full of oil, sender had its day so I replaced it. Is the sender linked to the computer and could this be a reason for the stalling? I cleaned the oil out of the plug with some electrical solvent, so I am keeping my fingers crossed lol.
 

bones308

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I have a VT series 1 with a v6 and in the last six months or so has driven me crazy with stalling. I had the computer scanned and it come up with error code for the cas, so replaced it and that did not fix it. Car always starts fine cold, as soon as it gets to 29 degrees air temp it will just shut down, no matter if the car is on the freeway at 100kph or at traffic lights.

The car has been rescanned and no errors are logged, mechanic suggested coils and dfi, replaced them no difference, oxy sensors has been replaced, all injectors were cleaned still no change. As a last resort we scanned in another known working computer and that also did not fix it.

Today I noticed an oil leak around the oil sender unit, pulled the plug out and it was full of oil, sender had its day so I replaced it. Is the sender linked to the computer and could this be a reason for the stalling? I cleaned the oil out of the plug with some electrical solvent, so I am keeping my fingers crossed lol.

next up try fuel pump, Ive had all the symptoms you have mentioned (just before xmas) stalling mid driving etc, took out the fuel pump (which looked Ok, no burnt connections) but whilst it was out replaced it and she has been fine ever since (x4 weeks now, days over 30 degrees) thank F---K!
 

tez

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hi guys whilst searching this subject on Google i found this hope is some help for every who has tried everything.

Hi everyone. First of all, great forum. I have learnt a lot of technical specs about my car just from reading your posts. I had the same curly problem as most people here. I have a 1999 VT and as you have mentioned stalled when it idles for extended periods in hot weather. Wait a while... and it started again for a little while.

I had replaced the Crank angle sensor twice, the Cam angle sensor, the DFI module and coil packs, new leads, new plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, swapped the computer beside the steering wheel, whichever it is ... rewired the plug to the DFI module but the problem still persisted. I have been following this thread now for maybe 2 months trying to fix the car, or thinking of ways to smash the s--t out of it. Over this time, I've been driving with the computer set to show actual temperature so I could gauge at what temperature it begins to stall.#

To do this hold the "arrow up" button and "mode" button simultaneously, and start the car. Release them when the car starts and press the mode button a few times until you see a small "T" on the left of the screen, and a number on the right side of the screen. The number displayed is a digital readout of the actual engine temperature. Sometimes it would cut out at 82C, 86C, sometimes as high as 96C or even 106C. I'd checked my fans and they actually do cut in at 104-105C but the car would stall before this almost always.

Yesterday, being a hot day in Sydney and going to work .. the usual happened and it began to stall. By chance, I moved the wiring of the DFI Module harness which is routed near the thermostat housing. There is a junction of wires there... some lead from the airflow meters and the sensors at the top of the engine, and they join with a group of wires from the cam angle sensor and the crank angle sensor. There is also a pair of solo wires which lead to the temperature sensor.#

At any point, I moved these wires off the thermostat housing and low and behold... it did not stall again for another 5-6 kilometers in peak hour traffic. Possibly because through vibrations the harness touched the hot housing again. This morning, I looked at the wires in this harness and found slight horizontal cracks. I rewired the cam and crank angle sensors from maybe 5-6 cm above the sensors all the way to the DFI module harness AGAIN and also purchased a thicker diameter plastic heat shield, and enclosed all the wires in this harness in 2 heat shields; one inside the other - so they do not even touch the DFI base plate ... and ... PROBLEM SOLVED.

For those who as I did have replaced everything listed in this thread and the problem persists ... it's a good bet to have this section of wiring checked by a sparkie or do it yourselves. Today was a hotter day than yesterday, and it did not stall once ...#

At least now I can get the Air-con re-gassed and finally use it !!!

My car has done 270,000, and prior to 2 odd months ago... it never skipped a beat. Apart from brake pads and service items, I have not done any major work to it at all.
 

bradpat

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I have the same problem with my 1999 VT Commodore, stalls normally when its cold or hot.Changed the crank angle sensor,then put a brand new fuel pump and sender and then finally replaced the 2 main computers as there were no code errors coming up so thought it must of been that,but today...wife could not take kids to school and had to walk home as exhausted our RACV tows already. Later she went back with a friend, car started fine and she drove it home. Also we checked and tightened up the earth on the chassis thinking it was that. Please help anybody!! AT A LOSS!! btw, it's only done 163,000 KMS.

Also, strange thing, the code that comes up with the mechanics tool he plugs in to check for codes won't even unlock the radio...did the same thing with the old computer and the replacement one we just put in :-(
 
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bones308

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its seems we've all had the same problem, stalling when hot ,stating after a few minutes, replacing the CAS,DFI + coils,relays + fuses
with my car, VT 1999 V6, after trying all this plus more, problem was to be FULE PUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i had NO FAULTS RECORDED, and when the fuel pump was removed it seemed clean and the connections where not burnt out ,but whislt we had it out
we replaced it and problem solved!!!!!!!

two months ,hot days over 30, city traffic and no breakdowns,
thank F--K!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

FstStig

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Dear The people who have just dug up and Hi-jacked this thread,

This is a pretty clear and simple message...

MAKE YOUR OWN DAM THREAD, STOP HI-JACKING EVERYONE'S!
 
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