ari666
250,000 hits
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2009
- Messages
- 11,835
- Reaction score
- 128
- Points
- 63
- Location
- melbourne
- Members Ride
- 1966 impala, R32 GTR
yeah its nine. he has that all set up right.
after sleeping on it for a bit i would swear that your problem is in the valve train somewhere. taking into account you shaved 60 off the heads and shimed it up, im wondering if one of the shims is a little too large and holding a vlave slightly open.
you really need to take a vacuum reading. if the reading is jumping from 0-12ish in neutral then itll be a vlave issue. sticky valve, or in my case broken spring. the car will run fine (ish) at higher RPM but at idle and down low itll shake rattle and roll depending on how much manifold vac you are losing.
i had an almost identical cam on my carby 308 (222 duration 496 lift megatorque brand) and with stock springs etc and roughly the same comp ratio and a good tune it idled smoothly and accelerated evenly all the way through the power band. i ddont think yours should lope.
and also following on from the vacuum leak idea, if your vac hunts around more than 2 or 3 inches (i.e. sits at 9 then drops slowly to 4 then slowly goes to 12 etc) it could indicate a vac leak. then triple check all your vac hoses, brake booster, vac advance and whatever map sensors you have (i dunno if 304's have map or whatever) then try the wd40 trick
post back dude. we wanna get your car rockin'
oh, and a simple trick to try if it is a valve issue is take of your plug leads one at a time and listen for rev change. if you take one off and it makes no difference stick your comp guage in the spark plug hole and take a comp reading. if its lower than the rest pop off your rocker cover and have a sticky beak at your valves/rockers.
after sleeping on it for a bit i would swear that your problem is in the valve train somewhere. taking into account you shaved 60 off the heads and shimed it up, im wondering if one of the shims is a little too large and holding a vlave slightly open.
you really need to take a vacuum reading. if the reading is jumping from 0-12ish in neutral then itll be a vlave issue. sticky valve, or in my case broken spring. the car will run fine (ish) at higher RPM but at idle and down low itll shake rattle and roll depending on how much manifold vac you are losing.
i had an almost identical cam on my carby 308 (222 duration 496 lift megatorque brand) and with stock springs etc and roughly the same comp ratio and a good tune it idled smoothly and accelerated evenly all the way through the power band. i ddont think yours should lope.
and also following on from the vacuum leak idea, if your vac hunts around more than 2 or 3 inches (i.e. sits at 9 then drops slowly to 4 then slowly goes to 12 etc) it could indicate a vac leak. then triple check all your vac hoses, brake booster, vac advance and whatever map sensors you have (i dunno if 304's have map or whatever) then try the wd40 trick
post back dude. we wanna get your car rockin'
oh, and a simple trick to try if it is a valve issue is take of your plug leads one at a time and listen for rev change. if you take one off and it makes no difference stick your comp guage in the spark plug hole and take a comp reading. if its lower than the rest pop off your rocker cover and have a sticky beak at your valves/rockers.
