Alloytec Oil
So what Oil is everyone using in there Alloytec's?
Mine's due for a service soon, so I'm wondering what Oils would be best...
WTB: VZ Chasers
Many choices, make sure you read the Owner's Handbook and check the Specifications area. Stick with what Holden recommend. Alloytecs do love good quality clean oil. Anything less is detrimental to their longevity.
Castrol edge 5w-30 runs mint!
CHE Tuned 156.8rwkw
Im using Mobil Semi Syn 15w-40, no issues.
I want to give Nulon 15w-40 a go, see how that performs.
The Blue One
Originally Posted by buddaboy1990
2 weeks after i did a oil change to my car.. it made my oil pressure sender go faulty.. now i got to change that.. the oil i used was Castrol Magnatec 10W-40..
I come in peace.
Edge Sport 5w30.
Not a true full synthetic as claimed.
Will be changing to another
brand next fill.
I'm not afraid.
Nulon 10w40 full synthetic its in a gold bottle
CHE Tuned 156.8rwkw
^^^Any issue using that Oil?
How much does it cost?
The Blue One
Brand matters very little imo. I would choose an oil based on viscosity (specified or very close to recommended), specification (product data sheet), and manufactures approvals. As for oil change interval I would say the price you pay is somewhat proportional to how many kms you travel and how long it stays in the sump.
As for a filter, go with a genuine one. About $15, made in the USA.
Last edited by IPCOlsenVZ; 13-11-2009 at 10:27 AM.
Now in a Calais
I use Nulon as well... has always been good for my car, no problems whatsoever. I get it at trade price through my dad, a service never costs very much for me at all. All parts at trade price but no labour costs, and I use one of my dad's hoists, and his tools.
I have no lemon pledge...
Always used Nulon in my VY.. best choice imo
About as handy as tits on a bull
Penrite HPR 10.. i think 5W-30 ehhhh cant remember.
its HPR 10 and Penrite, thats for sure. il get back to u on the other didgets. its semi-mineral i think. for high performance
Donating Member
Anyone else had bad experiences with Magnatec 10W-40. I just bought some for my next oil change, i'm hoping its not as bad as mentioned above and that was a once off...
I'd avoid Magnatech, an oil that "sticks" to parts? No thanks, no wonder the oil sensor got fubar. It's also a no-no for turbo's, i'd imagine an oil with some gummy sticky crap put through it.
Just go a good quality organic 15-40 or something around there, no need to go full synthetic unless you have spare $$ to throw around. Doing an oil change regularly (every 7500kms) is better for the engine that any expensive oil. I changed my oil and filter on my turbo lancer every 5000kms because it was an easy DIY.
Oh yeah always let your engine warm up and take it easy before bringing it above 3000rpm. 90% of engine wear is done within the first 10 mins of driving. If you really love your car you should let it idle after a cold start for a minute.
go in Luxury
I usually run the Magnatec and change to Edge for track/skid pan days because Im changing the oil just for that day anyway so I might as well chuck in something that supposidly helps, so 11 out of 12 months a year mines on Magnatec - no issues to date.
Been running only Magnatec for 3 years, this year was the only one where Ive changed to Edge for the one off thrash days.
The Magnatec sticking is a fact, nothing to do with it sticking and screwing up a sensor. Magnatec contained 10-20% Ester base Group 5, which has a natural polarity to metals, meaning it is attracted to it, almost like static paper to a plastic ruler. Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, also contain some of it as besides sticking, it has high load pressue capabilities and a natural solvent (cleaner) mixes well with the anti wear and other additives and seal sweller. The possible problem with Magnatec may lie in the other 80%, possible cheaper base oil and additives. Some engines love it like the LS1's. Sodium is the additive sometimes used to effect oil pressure.
I have been told of some issues in Turbo's on a BM or Merc cannot remember, but that is because it was used incorrectly with another ester based additive, so the seals over swelled. You recommend an organic oil which is exactly what the remainder of the Magnatec is. But definately some oils suit certain cars better than others. The key with overhead cam designs is go with a lighter startup weight, as you need the oil up top quicker than with older engine designs.
The Only 6sp VZ Wagon
we use magnatec at work in cars, i personally dont like it, seems to sludge i.e like the motors are burning the oil making the dark brown build up, thats why i firmly believe the bonds to the surfaces of metal as the marketing idea of sludge haha,
i personally use valvoline durablend 5w-30, runs great in it
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
Fair enough if you like magnatech by all means keep using it. But it's been said over many forums for all types of cars, (as andyman said) it builds up a black sludge. To me that sounds like the additives in the oil that makes it "bond" as their description states. I'll personally be avoiding it
yeh in my bmw changed oil to Magnatec 10W-40 and got a timing chain rattle everytime i started it changed back to gtx 3 15-40 and went away!
Cammed & Eventualy Blown!
i use that in my eco, no problems at all runs great
With your reasoning, all of Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Motul, Penrite Sin, Royal Purple, Castrol Edge should all be sludgers like this. I never said i use Magnatec, or particularly preferred it over any other oil. Theres plenty of oils i would rather use than it. Castrol Edge is worth using, its an excellent oil, the 0w40 and 10w60. The rest of them i am not so sure. As you have said, it could be some additives breaking down, the mineral base oil breaking down very quickly, but it is certainly not due to the ester which makes it stick. Like i said to you, Magnatec has 10-20% of this high quality stuff, and possibly 80% of poor quality stuff. I was just trying to explain to people how Magnatec and plenty of other oils stick. GT3 would have a very similar base, just thicker, and with or without the ester, depends how they want to market something. I have read threads of the GTX3 smelling in certain cars, is this true ?Fair enough if you like magnatech by all means keep using it. But it's been said over many forums for all types of cars, (as andyman said) it builds up a black sludge. To me that sounds like the additives in the oil that makes it "bond" as their description states. I'll personally be avoiding it
MOTUL
Some info.
I use the factory fuchs oil 30 and it has no dramas ,is synthetic....no big claims or special bonding or technical crap ...just works and no noises at startup or hot...only drama is I gotta either get 2 x 5 litre containers or sweet talk the local parts dealer into giving me trade for the 6 litre container
This is my vr that I rebuilt ....CLICK HERE to see my vr on Cardomain
......if you want to check it out......Anyway make sure you rubbish a ford daily ....I am a 4DH8RZ Club lifetime member .................new members joining everyday
The Only 6sp VZ Wagon
i thought knowing holden the factory fill would have been something along the lines of castrol edge 5w-30
EASTERN CREEK JCNSW 2009
............
Just quietly, that's frogshit. You do not need to warm cars up these days.
You don't have to let it idle but you should not rev it out till it is at operating temperature. I use Nulon 10-40 full synthetic.
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