Help on upgrading alloytec cams and valve springs

[krusing]

Giving it a go,
Good on you,
but do a bit of research first,
There are a fair few YouTube videos on Alloytec chains,
Watch them a few times, and you will get the gist,
And a fluorescent paint marker will be your best friend when your reassembling it,

As for the phaser gears, I guess they would only go back on one way I would assume,
That said,
Before you start pulling everything apart,

Remove the spark plugs,

Turn the crank to Phase 2 timing,
Install your cam locks,
Take not of the position of the cams,
A centre punch is a good tool for this,

That’s when you know the engine will be ready to assemble easier,
Then, you can remove the timing chains,
Then the phaser gears, with a 19mm spanner to hold the cams approximately in place, undo the front bolt,
And then the cams rollers,
then the cams will lift out,
Refit the hardware as required,
Install the cam locks,

Replace the oil pump while it’s pulled down that far,

You will see why after you Refit the chains,
Make sure it’s all aligned,
Then reassemble the front of the engine,

Most important, Make sure you clean everything up for reassemble,

Used the correct sealant and/or gaskets,
Change the oil and filter,
Then it should be ready to fire up,

The job is very time consuming to get it right,
So don’t try to rush it,
Because you don’t want to do it twice.


Hint: Remove the Water Pump first, before the Front Chain/Engine cover.

 

[Fu Manchu]

All that work for 5kW or some ****.

 

[shane_3800]

Do you mean while I’m driving or it’s not safe to rev it too 7k? Cause mine cuts off at 6500 from my last tune I got and that’s with a stock engine

Giving it a go,
Good on you,
but do a bit of research first,
There are a fair few YouTube videos on Alloytec chains,
Watch them a few times, and you will get the gist,
And a fluorescent paint marker will be your best friend when your reassembling it,

As for the phaser gears, I guess they would only go back on one way I would assume,
That said,
Before you start pulling everything apart,

Remove the spark plugs,

Turn the crank to Phase 2 timing,
Install your cam locks,
That’s when you know the engine will be ready to assemble easier,
Then, you can remove the timing chains,
Then the phaser gears, with a 19mm spanner to hold the cams approximately in place, undo the front bolt,
And then the cams rollers,
then the cams will lift out,
Refit the hardware as required,
Install the cam locks,

Replace the oil pump while it’s pulled down that far,

You will see why after you Refit the chains,
Make sure it’s all aligned,
Then reassemble the front of the engine,

Most important, Make sure you clean everything up for reassemble,

Used the correct sealant and/or gaskets,
Change the oil and filter,
Then it should be ready to fire up,

The job is very time consuming to get it right,
So don’t try to rush it,
Because you don’t want to do it twice.


Hint: Remove the Water Pump first, before the Front Chain/Engine cover.

I'm pretty sure the phasers don't have key ways hence the cam plate.
Most modern cars are like this.
Then there are some cars that have wound springs on the phaser like Volvo and Mercedes and removal without the special lock pin equals new phasers.

 

[oi nah]

Giving it a go,
Good on you,
but do a bit of research first,
There are a fair few YouTube videos on Alloytec chains,
Watch them a few times, and you will get the gist,
And a fluorescent paint marker will be your best friend when your reassembling it,

As for the phaser gears, I guess they would only go back on one way I would assume,
That said,
Before you start pulling everything apart,

Remove the spark plugs,

Turn the crank to Phase 2 timing,
Install your cam locks,
That’s when you know the engine will be ready to assemble easier,
Then, you can remove the timing chains,
Then the phaser gears, with a 19mm spanner to hold the cams approximately in place, undo the front bolt,
And then the cams rollers,
then the cams will lift out,
Refit the hardware as required,
Install the cam locks,

Replace the oil pump while it’s pulled down that far,

You will see why after you Refit the chains,
Make sure it’s all aligned,
Then reassemble the front of the engine,

Most important, Make sure you clean everything up for reassemble,

Used the correct sealant and/or gaskets,
Change the oil and filter,
Then it should be ready to fire up,

The job is very time consuming to get it right,
So don’t try to rush it,
Because you don’t want to do it twice.


Hint: Remove the Water Pump first, before the Front Chain/Engine cover.

Cheers bro yeah I’ve watched a fair few of those videos, there’s really in depth ones so it’s hard to **** it up, I might look at getting a timing chain kit, and doing all that. So say when I have all the timing chains off, I loosen the first phaser bolt, remove it, then take the phaser off, undo all the bearing caps, make sure there all marked, remove the cam. Does the new one literally just slot into place? If it does then do the bearing caps back up, install the phaser the same way it came off and bolt it back up.

Also I’m not sure if I want to do valve springs, it seems a bit to out of my league, and I know this whole job is, but I feel like valve springs are too far, especially with the tool for it costing 500 usd, and having to use compressed air for the valves, I might do it I just want to see what other people reckon. But yeah I’ll spend all of Friday night, Saturday and Sunday doing it, hopefully I can get it all good, and I’ll get it tuned asap. I still need it for work so I’ll be back on the trains for a bit ahaha.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Have a go, you will learn a lot. It’s just we are saying do the job properly.

 

[krusing]

Cam bearing caps are already stamped/marked,
And are directional
Take note of them,
DONT mix them up,
When you refit them,
Give them a squirt of oil before refitting them.

And use a tension wrench, to tighten them to spec.

 

[shane_3800]

Cheers bro yeah I’ve watched a fair few of those videos, there’s really in depth ones so it’s hard to **** it up, I might look at getting a timing chain kit, and doing all that. So say when I have all the timing chains off, I loosen the first phaser bolt, remove it, then take the phaser off, undo all the bearing caps, make sure there all marked, remove the cam. Does the new one literally just slot into place? If it does then do the bearing caps back up, install the phaser the same way it came off and bolt it back up.

Also I’m not sure if I want to do valve springs, it seems a bit to out of my league, and I know this whole job is, but I feel like valve springs are too far, especially with the tool for it costing 500 usd, and having to use compressed air for the valves, I might do it I just want to see what other people reckon. But yeah I’ll spend all of Friday night, Saturday and Sunday doing it, hopefully I can get it all good, and I’ll get it tuned asap. I still need it for work so I’ll be back on the trains for a bit ahaha.

If you need the car don't stuff around.
I would want at least three timing chain jobs under my belt at you're level before I attempted a necessity car.

 

[shane_3800]

Cam bearing caps are already stamped/marked,
And are directional
Take note of them,
DONT mix them up,
When you refit them,
Give them a squirt of oil,

And use a tension wrench, to tighten them to spec.

Yea they need a 1/4" torque wrench. I think they're about 10nm on the cam caps. My Snap-on digital 3/8th go's to 7nm but you don't want to be at the far end of the scale.
So that's another tool that's needed.
I can actually do stuff like that by hand feel but it takes years of practice, plus I own $3000 of torque wrenches.

Que the arm chair asassins telling me I don't know anything lol.

I used to do all engine stuff by torque wrench but where I work now the other guy said just do it by feel, we don't have come backs.

 

[oi nah]

Have a go, you will learn a lot. It’s just we are saying do the job properly.

yeah cheers bro I’m always gonna do the job the best I can, just trying to figure out the best way to do it

 

[oi nah]

Cam bearing caps are already stamped/marked,
And are directional
Take note of them,
DONT mix them up,
When you refit them,
Give them a squirt of oil,

And use a tension wrench, to tighten them to spec.

Yeah I know all about bearing caps from doing diffs, normally we just use a dot punch but that’s good there already marked, and yeah I’ll be taking photos, lots of them lol.