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i have an immobiliser... Is it possible to disconnect the central locking to each door lock indipendently for testing purposes. By unplugging the actuator? Also joeallen, when would yours cycle? randomly or especially when braking? Locking the car?

its factory central locking. It seems to cycle mostly when braking now. And still at start up and locking.

I cleaned up the battery terminals and checked earth points and the issue still exists.

i think your onto something there as the cycling got worse after I had the negative terminal disconnected a few weeks ago. i think my battery is ok probably the connectors as their 18 years old.

yeh i've looked at all the central locking threads and no one has posted an answer.

Could i just disconnect the actuator and see how it goes?

my back right lock always goes up but sometimes doesn't go down...usually only in winter. It never gets suck half way. Not sure if this is the issue as i said above "I have noticed that turning on the lights, braking and indicating appear to trigger this". Anymore ideas would be greatly appreciated.

last time i went to an auto elec i got charge $130 for them to tell me theres nothing wrong...even though still was.

I replaced the two hinge pins on mine and it got a little better for a few weeks then it was back to its old annoying self. Might try the striker.

My central locking is going crazy! Every time i start my car it cycles appox 6 times; then it will cycle at random about every 5 minutes. I have noticed that turning on the lights, braking and indicating appear to trigger this. I have an immobiliser with remote if that makes any difference. Also...

To flush it all out use penrite rapid 7. Tectaloy does **** all. Then run it with just water for a few days to see if its fixed.

The oil in the coolant in mine was light grey sludge.

my engine was leaking a small amount of oil into my coolant. First I did a compression test and it came up fine. A few weeks ago I changed the inlet manifold gasket, which was in poor condition, and theres no more engine oil leaking into my coolant. The gasket would have been about 220km old so...

mine was actually a 20mm not a 30mm dent as originally stated. I have not fixed it and its been over 4 months so i think I'm in the clear. If your a good welder you could try welding a nut on and pulling it out with a large bolt...

So i just rip off deadener (with mask on), pull/drill out plugs and it'll be all sweet?

cheers ridah. Has anyone remove it? Anything I need to know before doing so?

Hi all, i'm just wondering if there are any issues with scraping the Bonnet Sound Deadener stuff apart from the obvious...more noise. Mine's falling apart a little. If it is ok to remove then should I remove the black circular plugs that hold it there?

i checked the price from holden about 1 year ago and they were about $30. I decided to keep my cracked one...They seem to go back on surprisingly well even when cracked a bit.

Your steering issue is most likely caused by your ball joints. But it's probably that and a combination of other things...tie rod ends etc...

I just measured the dent. The worst section is 14mm in from normal and there are no sharp folds/edges etc...not too bad I suppose. I started the engine and there are no unusual noises and the oil pressure light does not come on. I think I'm going to leave it. When I was turning the motor over...

I accidently jacked my car from under the sump(brain explosion) and it has dented in about 30mm in the centre...gradually less mm further to the sides. I have not attempted to start the engine but I can turn the motor over manually. (I dont think the crankshaft is rubbing). I'm guessing the oil...

I bought 2 x ducaro's when they first came out then put these on the back when I purchased 2 more about 1-2 years later. I have now had the newer and older one's on the rear (similar tread). The original one's were absolutely shocking....The 2 newer ducaro's were ok (5/10). I now have dunlop...

thanks mack. Yours is a different setup however...cause it's a v8 i suppose. Anyone with pics from a V6. cheers

Just wondering if my fuel sender unit is installed the right way? eg. rotation. etc(see pic)...Because ever since I've had the car I can run out of fuel and then only be able to squeeze 40L back in. (It's a 68L tank). This only happens when parked on an angle but I'm too scared to run it below...

thanks for all your help lowvp but I have sorted a deal out with the seller. cheers

Because when someone on eBay says something is brand new then 99% of the time it is and it's not a problem.

thanks for your help. If no one else can give me answer then yeh if you could check that would be great. I tried to call Bendix yesterday but there helpdesk was having technical difficulties. I have a feeling there the older style general ones. I think they were called Bendix General.

pics.............

Here's the go... I bought these pads off eBay for $55 and they were suppose to be brand new but they have obviously been used for approx 1000km - 5000km as the original pad surface has disc wear and they're about 1mm skinnier than new ones. I therefore emailed the seller and he agreed to...

I purchased a pair of Bendix "Ultimate" pad's off eBay but I think they might be General CT's. The part # on the pad is: DB1085 BMXP FF 408205. Does anyone know whether these are Ultimate's or General CT's? cheers

My central locking has gone crazy. It randomly cycles eg. keeps going up and down when I'm driving. I read somewhere on the net that this can be caused by the main fuse not making proper connection ; but i've checked this and it seems ok. Now the only ideas i have is that either the central...

If it sounds loudest from under the guards then it probably is the balance shaft bearing. Mine is loudest in undercover car parks when you give it the a slight rev. I've decided to not bother repairing it. Mines had that noise for about 30-40k and the engine is still going:)

Could be the balance shaft bearing. Mine VN has very similar symptoms to yours and that is what it is.

I thought the car would barely run with such a wrong resistance. Does anyone have experience with this. cheers

because i'm actually getting 1.86k ohms.

Any advice anyone? Also is it meant to be between .3 - 1.5 ohms or "k" ohms. cheers

I finally got around to checking my coil pack (vn series 2) and found that the resistance between the primary terminals of each coil is wrong. I'm getting 1.86 ohms which is out of the proper range. (0.3 - 1.5 ohms) Do you think I should replace it? The secondary resistance of the 3 coils was...

So what is the MAP and how do I check it? Also how do I check the TPS. I'm not getting any fault codes....Apart from the odd code13. Could this be related to my extractor/o2 sensor problem?

any more ideas anyone?

I vary my fuel brand a fair bit and I've been having this problem for a while now so I don't think it's a fuel brand problem.