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Anyone else? Just want to confirm this before I go booking a mechanic :) Thanks

The noise doesn't seem to have changed at all, maybe just a little more frequent now is all.

Hi guys, For a long time now (2 yrs +) I have had the odd grumbling noise from the back of the car, particularly when starting from cold. This has never caused issues, just I thought a little odd. More recently I've had issues with warm starts (hot/cold fine, just hard to start again after...

Thanks so much for posting this up esp with the pics :) I was confused about a couple of parts in there and how it hooked up - now i see I just need new runners! You can buy these runners separate, but if anything else in there is dead you need to buy a whole new regulator!

Old thread! Done this today too, major issue for me was the second screw behind the handle but other than that pretty easy. Re screws on the edges, there's 3 underneath, 2 on the opening side and 1 on the hinge side (you might need a stubby screw driver to get to this easily). Other screws are...

It's at the auto elec's now anyway... will see what it comes back with. He said he would do a full test before replacing anything. Previous experience says he doesn't take shortcuts with diagnosis :) Well it was def the starter... replaced and goes a charm - better than it ever has for as long...

Yeah it throws up a check engine light from memory :/

Cheers :) I'm hoping it's just starter and CAS... that I can deal with. Fuel pump will make me not happy :( lol Might go with starter for now and work my way from there... at least if the car starts it doesn't matter as bad if it cuts out if i can restart straight away :P God that sounds...

Awesome... how much did the diff parts cost to get replaced? I pretty much had my eye on the starter for the slow crank... obviously really lol. I was thinking fuel pump for the stall because i have been getting the odd grumble noise from it but this has been happening for like 2 years lol...

Hi folks, Got a couple of issues that i might run past you clever folk! When cold car starts fine 90% of the time. When warm it cranks slower and can take a couple of goes (this is frustrating because i have to do a couple of warm starts every day). Also, very odd occasion (maybe 1-2...

Crikey, after all of this it seems that the contacts may just have been the issue. Gave it a good run over the weekend (my weekday run is too short to give it a decent charge) and the last half dozen starts since then have been perfect... about a week and a half since it was last on the...

Mmmmm ok, nobody else has highlighted the volts coming off the alt as an issue before... yeah there were some dodgy looking readings way up top of the thread but once I got an MM everyone seemed happy - including at least a couple of RACQ chaps who've tested it since. Pretty much the only way...

Howdy :) Yeah I mentioned the reg problem to the sparky when it was in for the current draw just before xmas. He knew what I was on about... had never once seen a new Bosch do it but tested anyway. Draw when car off is at about 50mA now, down from 1A from a stupid relay/BCM issue. I cleaned the...

Oooooooooook Car being a pain in the ass still... started fine this afternoon, went to restart later and nothing... not even half a crank. RACQ out and tested the batt - fine (bugger lol), alternator fine still (tested after getting it going). He basically just bashed around the terminals, got...

No worries, I will call out RACQ shortly - really just wanted to be sure it wasn't the alt first :) Yeah and it is a crank only batt... Will give them a buzz and see if it's something that might be covered under warranty.

Sorry mate I just meant that the voltage drops by 0.2-0.3V when the radiator fans kick in. So you're thinking it's more an issue with the battery being rooted I assume?

Ok, another set of reading. Car off about 12.7 Idle with only radio 12.9-13.2V Idle with highbeams 12.5 -12.7V Radiator takes about .2-.3 off any of the above readings. Under load it does now seem to kick up the voltage, with highbeams it gets to about 13.5V, about 13.8V with rad and 14V...

Um had been sitting overnight, got about a 10 minute drive then maybe 30 mins sitting before I took reading. Car is 100% stock so just the 6 stacker, but was only on the radio at the time.... I'll have more of a dig around the back of the alt, see if I can work out what I should be reading...

Ok I didn't dive into the harness at the back of the alt, it's pretty well covered up so wasn't confident poking around too much. Batt with car off - 12.95V Car on warming up - ~14V Car on with rad on - ~13.2V Can on rad off but high beams on - ~12.5V The dash readings did seem to be off a...

Ok - Alt is the correct 14V 100A unit as per the bosch catalogue (apparently there's too many bosch parts in my car, and me not knowing what i'm looking at doesn't help :P) Battery is marked simply as a "2176" which I assume is a common model number for RACQ/RACV/NRMA etc. It's actual ratings...

Battery is about 10 months old RACQ Unit ... about 450CCA from memory? Still under 2 year warranty but I don't really want to call them out and mess them around until I'm sure it's the battery. Alt is a brand new Bosch, but couldn't tell you which one (will look tonight). I have vague...

Ok - bit more. Service mode on the dash gives me about 12.3V at idle, 13.5V under load (doesn't seem to go any higher) less about 0.3V for aircon, and about 0.2V for lowbeams.

Ok, the cursed WH continues it's reign! I have one of these stupid calcium batteries that's been run flat a couple of times... and now I have to charge on a weekly basis. I am using a charger rated for calcium batts and does all the pulse charging etc. RACQ has done some basic testing of...

Did end up just getting the charger for another $25 from supercheap.... mentioned something in there about the pulse charging helping the batteries recover from being discharged so hopefully does the job :P other charger was terrible, charged to 100% last night... and about 7 starts later it...

Oh there's some for about $200 that look half decent... I picked up a cheap charger from supercrap last night (said it was ok for calcium, but that's about it) which I can take back for exchange .... but they don't have any regen units. They have pulse chargers that are going to cost me about...

Howdy, My WH currently has one of the newer calcium style batteries in, it ran dead flat a couple of times recently and doesn't appear to be taking charge too well just from driving. I've been advised I need to get a newer pulse charger, but in my research have even seen some with a...

Ok - here's one for you guys... car is all fixed now, $176 later (which I am happy with to have a car that should just work now). The issue? Well, the BCM drives a relay that drives the interior lighting, BCM had a fault where it wasn't cutting power to the relay when the car was shut off -...

Yeah but not so much that it flattens your battery overnight :) I think normal is anywhere up to about 0.2A, this was drawing just over 1A... ie... 5 times more than it should be. After a quick charge from RACQ yesterday, it had 2 starts in it today before it needed to be jumpstarted...

Ah that is a good one :) and hard to see obviously lol. Car is back at the auto elec anyway. Found out the unit he put in is a Bosch and he said he knows about how the alt can drain the battery, but has never seen a new Bosch unit do it - ever.

Howdy folks, EDIT - SIMPLER QUESTION Is it possible a faulty alternator or bad install can place a drain on the battery even when the car is off? I have a 1 week old alt (output tested ok), 10 month old batt (tested fine) but there's a 1A drain on the batt when car is off. This is in a...

New Heater Tap New Radiator New Alternator 2 loads of coolant -$1000 But at least the damn car works lol... there really isn't anything left to die :P Engine itself I'm still convinced is a good one. Always runs well, doesn't use a drop of oil, never really had anything go wrong with the...

Damn radiator is back at it. Heater tap been leaky for a while but just been topping it up every couple of weeks. The other radiator split today, brilliant :/ just to top it off.... found out the hard way that my alternator is also gone - by the hard way I mean that once I topped up...

Anybody? I guess the quick question is - can a transistor have an intermittent issue? Or is it just a case of when it dies, it's dead (meaning my problem is something else).

Ok - with the abscence of the aircon forum i'll post this here :) Kinda both anyway. I have issues with my climate control relating to speeds 1-3 dropping out on a regular basis and working only on full bore which bypasses the cc control module. Now... I understand with the non-cc resistor...

Ok experts!! WH has climate control and i suspect a bung fan speed control... however... it does come on periodically. Is this normal for this kind of failure? Or if it's intermittent should I be looking at bad wiring? Yet to rip into the dash... just don't want to be pulling it apart 2 or...

Great thread. Just wish the idiot who took mine apart once before hadn't lost that nut... Wires falling off the lighter... hence no power working... replaced cig lighter unit (<$10) and wrapped it up with electrical tape behind the console to hold it somewhat in place. Might make a trip...

For references sake, I was quoted $109 for a new controlled from holden :( p/n 92162703 I think I might be seeing if I still have the soldering gear...

Aggh.... $70 each for the harness

Yeah I figured that may be the case :( Annoying too because it looks hard to get the fitting through the little rubber grommet in the boot. May actually be easier to replace just the socket lol. Though I guess I was planning on doing all of them... loom may work out better in the long run...

Howdy all, I have one brakelight that isn't as bright as the other... I'm still all legal at this point with the 3rd light but I checked it out today anyway. Globes seem fine but the holders are shot to bits... to the point I wrapped them up in electrical tape before I put them back in place...