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after polshing

inside before cleaning out and cleaning up seats

day i got the statesman home before washing and polishing

hey all this is my new wh international statesman i picked up for 2500 with rego only 213000km on it sat around in the sun for awhile so did suffer from some paint fade most was fixed after a quick polish. make: holden model: wh statesman international engine: gen III ls1 transmission: stock...

well i got a set of vt ss 17s on my vq and got the rears scrubbing on the inner gaurd and just clears the supension arm. has anyone done the vr/vs irs conversion i can get basicaly the whole rear end bar the diff and sub fram from the wreakers for 150 is it as simple as just unbolding the...

Only update so far as is I got some rear leather wh seats for free so I had a go at fitting into my car swapped bottom drams and changed mounting for back rest I do have a gap since wh have arm rest which is why iv got a gap

Just did a test so the heater tap isn't letting coolant through unles I physical push the arm in my self then get nice warm heat so take it it's a vac problem I got no idea where these sola lids are that control the vacuum iv had the radio fascia out before hut couldn't see them.

Heater hoses seem to not blocked up pulled my heat tap off pushed the arm on to open it up it opens makes a pop noise when it shuts water will flow through it open so don't know if my vac lines are stuffed how do I cheak that coolant is getting past the heater tap only way I throught was hook it...

It's a climate control one too but I don't think any coolant goes through the cabin atm iv had the car up to temp all hoes feel cold so I'll take the tap off today and see if blocked or rusted or somthing

Also the heater tap pipes going into firewall wernt hot at all same two inside the car top radiator hose pipe was pretty warm.

Heater tap looks pretty new I did have to adjust a setting on the control unit today but no sensors are saying there fault seems to switch between vents fine. Just yeah no heater as of yet. Vac line doesn't seem to to lose or anything on the Tao it self. Where about is the connecting rod like...

My vq heater will not work, everything ells works fine just won't get any heat, I did a self dai on the unit and it came back fine. What ells is there I should be looking for? It runs the two pipe heater tap as well it's giving heat once but didn't last long before went cold again

Yeah just been having trouble finding a vq one some exhuast shops say they can't get them anymore. This one is 50 bucks but yeah I'm no welder I'd take it the middle part has to be extended to make it past the axel where it bends to clear it

I got offered a cat back off a vr v6 with irs now I know a stato is longer but would the vr cat back bolt up and just need extending or dw about it and just get one suited to vq

So iv made sure my dash is set to 80 fuel tank but when Iv filled it the needle never goes to full sits at a quiet mark the fuel in tank reading will show 80 to 81 in the tank but also the gauge will drop rapidly so once it's at half way I checked fuel in the tank reading was showing 60l was in...

i did ym vq stato in a dove silver with abit pearl added tot he clear it was a home job in arlyic paints ill try upload a pic tonight and this was my 1st go at a car only ever done sheds. ill probaly re do it later in the year if im not happy with it after the buffing

fitted a new oxy sensor and new air filter as well problem is still there, its had new leads and plugs put in. onhly other things left are fuel reg maybe leaky injectors.

ing still for leaks all i can say is still getting il from the filter or oil presure switch hard to say. also oil on the sump now plus maybe a rear main seal and i think maybe a trnamssion leak around the pan. good i love 5l and there oil leaks

Paint and clear. Unfortunately I'll have to re do as the primer wasn't sanded enough so it's left a rough looking surface but I'll still buff this. I'll re do soon least it will be a fresh base instead of having all this old faded paint

Thanks just need to try get a good few hours when the temp is around 25 to 30 degrees to shot the base coat.

Thanks mate. I'm hoping the primer job comes up good. Other wise may need to re shot it again. Couple spots didn't come up smooth

Dove silver think it called the factory colour

Primer done bade coat to come tomorrow or Monday

Started sanding the roof and bonnet just putting some body filler in couple small dents. Roof is sanded to 80 grit as is bonnet

Front bar and head lights out.

Rear bar is off and side spats. Head lights are out. Rear Window moulds off. Basically just door handles front bar Window trims and the door trims left to remove

Today got all my paint togather so starting to take everything needed off and getting ready for primer and paint will post pics as it goes along

from memory i had fault 45 ox2 sensor high (rich) i may have to cheak again cause somtimes the engine light does light up and goes away. i had trouble with codes due to the car running a v6 memcal but i fitted the right memcal when i found out people before me where running the v6 one in it...

nar havnt yet, expensize thing they are 100 dollars for mine at repco its a single wire one

Sweet as iv done vts before, well sturt tops need to be as well so might as well do same time

i been trying to find this problem for awhile, i sprayed the swicthes and the lights all stayed off when doors where shut worked for a day ro two then they started coming on while the doors where shut and car was off but the door lights. is this a common problem with these, its as if the doors...

as iv never done a vn to vr castor rod bush wonder best way to go abiout replacing them. do i remove the rod from the lower control arm or can i do them with the rod still bolted in lower copntrol arm bushes are fine just my castor rod ones also using nolthane ones so there the piece ones

nar havnt been able to have time to do that test yet, nar plugs and leads where replaced not even a month ago id say has good spark but yeah got the feeling to much fuel is getting in seems to be more if the car had been runnign and i turn it off and start it again after 15 mins it doesnt want...

i only have a faulty oxy sensor. still trying to find this problem dont realy want to go get the injectors cleaned and tested if there not going to a problem

Somtimes when it starts it really struggles to rev up it will sputter abit then the revs will jump up. Couple times has needed some throttle to start. Has been have a small miss lately plugs have been chamber few months ago with new plugs new rotor and dizzy cap.

Just trying to figure out if my injectors are leaking I think my starting problem is to do with the fuel system flooding also the car stinks of fuel when it's switched off. Is there a way to test for leaks or would the fuel pressure reg be causing the problem

Nar it's allways turned off while car was off, looked at it today can see bit of wire that looks like it's touching the remote wire so say that's the problem need to try get some o ring connectors for it

Yeah I took the remote off from the head unit still has power I don't Acutally have a volt meter, but no there are no ring terminals on my wires atm. So I'm lead to believe that the positive is touching the remote.

Ok so today my ground and power wires where pulled out of my amp so I hooked them back up I had the head unit out cause throught the remote wire had came out of its connector, I noticed when putting the head unit in was making these werid noise coming from the sub as if it was on didn't take...