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top one is different but I think the bottom one is the same

The clutch should never cycle on commodore compressors once the Evap gets cold enough that valve just basically slows the gas flow down

The reason I know this is because Im a refrigeration mechanic and I had this problem with my brand new compressor. Have you noticed if the compressor clutch is cutting in and and out?

Hey firstly if he is on here asking for help I don't think he want to just live with it. Also what is this different gas you are talking about? the system is designed to run on 134a only. I don't know what u mean with the control valve and at no point is it normal for the Evap to freeze to so...

I think the refrigerant flow control in the compressor might be stuck on 100% causing the evaporator to ice up stopping the air flow.

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Superlows all round

The low speed fan is not only concerned with the A/C Early model VT's switch both fans on at "low" speed, then increase the rpm on both for "high" speed. Late model VT's switch only one fan on for "low" speed, and both for "high" speed. this means from what you have said your fans are not...

alternator regulator

vt have both fans going with a high and low speed. then vx they changed it to one or 2 fans

it doest matter what position its in it will automatically adjust to achieve the correct rpm when you start it

only one fan is meant to cut in if this fan cant bring the engine temp back down the second fan will cut in. also when the a/c is on only one fan should be running unless the a/c pressures get to high then the second one will come on.

The one on the right of the picture

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check the connection where the variable solinoid plugs into the witing loom it plugs in near the battery just follow the wires from the solinoid on the rack. if that doesnt fix it i suggest replacing the solinoid u can get them from holden

Stripped reaction shell. make sure u get the stronger one fitted as i have broken mine twice. shouldnt be a total rebuild got mine fixed for about 900 i think

how long have u been driving it? it usually takes a few days for all the air to get out of the system and return to being fully quiet. if its not quiet after a week of driving then i would start looking at things

take all the belts off and start the engine and see if the noise is gone then you will know if its a pulley or not

Yeh the rack has the solenoid on it. I thought the same but when I go to buy one on eBay it says it doesn't suit variable steering

Hey can somone please tell me what the difference is between the standard and variable power steering pump as mine has a leak and need a new one. I have heard there is something different with the pump.

that explains why ive run mine on 10-30w mobil 1 since brand new and now it has 200 000 kays on it and the motor still sounds like the day i bought it

in my experience you are better to go to holden to get the globes. u can find some that fit at various auto stores that will work but they are not the same wattage as the factory ones and will look to bright when u put them in. for example from memory the gear stick light is a standard parker...

its normal mate every commodore i have driven has done it as u coast down a hill at 100 kays u can see the tacho moving a small amount totally normal. its only u noticed it as u can now hear it!

go to the wreckers and get a new one it would be far easier than trying to glue it

for starters the tyre size is wrong it should have 235/40/18 so it could be rubbing and is the offset on the rims correct for a commodore

could be alot of things like stuffed compressor or a gas leak. and its impossible for it to run out of gas and just need a refill unless there is a leak

the solenoid on the rack might be faulty or the wires might be damaged. its plugged in near the battery and the wires run down to the rack near where the steering column connects to the rack. check the connection and wiring

yeah mate my compressor just started doing the same thing it still works perfectly so im not going to wory until it dies. put ur hand on one of the rubber pipes going into the compressor and rev the engine mine gives a knocking as the revs just about return to idle

its infront of the radiator

the air bleed needs to be tight after you have bled the system and the x on the climate control means one of the sensors or something is not working correctly. i had this problem and after holden trying to tell me there was nothing wrong i figured out that it was just a bad connection where...

Id never own a gas car but that just my opinion!

its a chain

they recommend a certain weight oil because that is what the engine is designed to run. ive run 10w-30 in my car like the manual says from 0kms to 160 000kms and my engine has no noisy lifers

i recommend not putting in different injectors as they wont do anything

i would start with the leads mine did the same thing and the terminals on the leads had corroded out and they basically were just sitting on the coil pack not clipped on tightly

if you want to get out of it cheaply and easily u could try some radiator stop leak. not the best option but if it works it may get u out of trouble for another few years. personally if just fix it properly

basically the only part that is the same in both engines is the block. the internals heads intake loom ecu and everything else is different.

the right one comes on and off with air con and also when ur engine gets to hot. the left one will only come on when its to hot for the just the right one to cool the engine for example a really hot day or when u have just been idling for ages with no air coming through the radiator.

the bearings in the pulley seize then the belt burns the hell out of the pulley thats how it happens

proby ur inlet manifold gasket they always let go. i would look at that first before getting carried away with head gasket cause they rarely let go