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Tyres sound like they've been stretched on the rim, and are the cheap model. Achilles make some good tyres. The ATR sports are good for average daily driving, 123s are good for more spirited stuff. But this issue would 100% be the setup you have now.

Could the plugs be an issue?

If you're at the point of just considering what to buy, your best bet is the buy what you want, strangely enough! If you like the S-packs looks, then purchase one :) instead of buying a model you don't like and proceeding to spend more money to swap a front bar.

Disconnect your battery for 30mins, that might reset something. Also, check your ego.

I'll give you some options, although i don't know if they will all come in the size you need. Federal 595 EVO's - Budget tyre, average grip but alittle loud. Bridgestone Potenza RE002/3 - Middle of the range price wise, slightly better grip then the Federals and much quieter. Goodyear...

Agreed, 100% marketing. You couldn't feel the difference on the road, 10kw is so minimal in that engine.

Truth of the matter is, that you're not person X's accountant :D You and I have both said it's not a very good purchase. And if said advice isn't taken in, then so be it :) i will add too, your reply did seem very stand-offish and defensive...

The thing is, you'll offer a price. Then they'll counter it, or say they're not negotiable. You wont lose anything for asking, and they wont throw a sale away for you trying.

Also, check to see the filler cap is done up snug, and in good condition.

Only real option might be to call a locksmith. I lost my keys for my 89' Mazda once, cost be $320 on a sunday to call one out and cut a new one (Off the door lock). Buuut $150 of that was a sunday call out fee. So maybe thats you're best bet, leave it to the pros :)

I know the feels :D

If you can get the boot open, hire a small child and get them to squeeze in via there

Do you plan on tracking the car? No real point playing with damping settings unless you are. Some coilovers can go higher, some sit slightly lower. Some can have a range of -10mm to -120mm (hardcore japanese brands) others 0mm to -40mm (Bilsteins etc) If you're just looking at a small drop...

I looked loooong and hard at this when i had my Alloytec. I found several issues, first being that any real power gain was around 5500rpm, and considering the redline is around 6800 on a newer model, that gives a very small window. And unless you've got your foot on the floor you won't feel an...

You'll find its just a bit of the centre console. Which is probably only sold as a whole unit :/ Time to hit up the wreckers bro!

Missus leave her handbag in the car?

Fuel Economy

From my understanding, higher octanes also allow more scope for timing to be added. Making more power in most cases.

Made in China doesn't necessarily mean bad these days, all depends on what budget they're made to...

Stick with a 2.5", WITH resonators/mufflers. It's not about being obnoxious because everyone thinks you are (Which you are if you give in). It's because without them, the sound waves will cause a resonance within the cabin, making it a horrible place to be. I've been in the back seat of a...

I had RE002's before the Federal 595 Evo's i have now. Same dry traction and handling, 595's are slightly worse in the wet and alittle more noisy. But at $50 cheaper each I'll be going Federals again. 205/45/16's @ 1050kg

+1 I wanna know :)

I've used a TOG intercooler before, it did its job adequately :)

But, you don't want to be replacing engines at all. Prevention is better then a cure. And a stock LS1 in a vehicle with similar brakes and suspension as you've previously listed, will give reliable power with great handling and braking. I think you're alittle confused, or i haven't been...

It's not for me, the information is for the OP. But yes, that is certainly a step in the right direction!

Once again, I don't know. Basically, I'm trying to gather constructive information from you. It's becoming increasingly hard.

I don't know. I went off your comments. Which is why I'm awaiting your answer on a turbocharged V6's longevity. :)

This is very true!! :) I'm just rather curious how often a "regular basis" is in your terms. As it's a direct relation to how much money would be invested. I'm also confused as why you're being so sensitive? No person is doubting that the V6 engine is an option, but it's simply more expensive...

No i have never owned a Turbocharged Ecotec, have you? I made my assumption off your own comment, that it would need replacing on a regular basis. What would you say is a regular basis? One week? One month? 6? Obviously depending on use.

The common perception of "budget" is cheap. It's not really cheap or smart to replace an engine on a regular basis. And as the OP hasn't specified what vehicle it is, whats not to say he cant buy a model with the V8 from factory? Not all commodores start life as a V6.

Both comments are very true. The fact is, that LS1's are fairly cheap to buy, they have an extensive INTERNATIONAL aftermarket scene and by design are compact and lightweight.

How about we allow the gentleman to decide what HE actually wants, before we leave a bad taste in his mouth. :)

Whats the VIN number?

It's hard to tell without seeing it in person. But to me it does sound like a timing issue. To be honest i didn't know they did servicing, just cylinder head work and machining. I'd take it back first thing tomorrow, because they'll cover their work :)

Doubt you'll get a reply mate, that was alittle over 4 years ago. Still interesting.

Had a mate back in Townsville, who had one. Was a 4inch pipe by memory

Agreed. Don't skimp on the the tuning side. Its the most important part of vehicles these days.